Drying time of brushed on, odorless thinner reduced, OIL paints.

Inquiring if anyone used oil paints (the kind that come in a tube), diluted with odorless thinner and brushed on, and what the drying time was. I brushed on the same yesterday, and to my surprise, the paint rubbed off on my fingers today, showing only a slight drying. I thought it might be my el cheapo oil paint set, but I do realize that oils, especially diluted would seem to take longer to dry. I just didn’t expect it to take this long. Thanks for your input.

I have not used them beyond for washes, but in that case they usually take several hours to dry.

Ditto, a couple of hours for washes. Oils do take a long long time. I tried doing what you describe to paint figures and just created a huge mess.

Oils can take several months to dry. I use oils for washes only (about thinned 95% with Mona Lisa Odorless Thinner) and they completely dry within 24-48 hours. That’s why I like oil washes. I can always correct errors and fine-tune.

Thanks guys, for the response. As you all have indicated, oils as washes can show superior results, in the ability to hug a contour and just flow! Trying the oils thinned, as a brushable product on a figure showed a very smooth finish, but for the drying time. Waiting for it to dry is thumb-twiddling time. Its like watching paint dry [whstl].

This is interesting reading. It seems different coloured pigments in the paint can also affect drying time.

http://www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/tips-and-techniques/oil-colour/understanding-the-drying-times-for-oil-colour-us

I have never had a problem with washes made from model enamels flowing into recesses and crevices.

You can dry oil paints in minutes with a hair dryer. For anyone who has limited time or patience a hair dryer is an essential tool. Paint, washes, decals, all are done in minutes, not hours or days.

Jay

Over a glossy acrylic finish ? Don

Oil paints made specifically for modeling, such as MIG oils, are the kind you want to use. They contain less linseed oil and just work better. Also, in chuck’s mig thread he used an accelerator made for oils. Worth checking out.

I swear by MIG oils because they contain little linseed oil. I also use W&N oils and it’s easy to extract linseed oil from them. Just leave a small amount of W&N on a piece of cardboard for a few minutes.

Nope, very seldom use glossy acrylic- I find it easier to get a good gloss finish with enamels.

and you use enamel washes.

I used to have a hair dryer when I had hair. Now I just shave my head, and consider it an extension of my face. [*-)]

Back when I worked on figures, 90% of my work was done in oils. Basic rule I had was a minimum of 24 hrs of drying between coats. This could be shortened when I built a “drying box”. It was a small box w/holes in the top, a shelf where the figure was placed over a 60 to 75 watt light bulb. It was lined w/ tinfoil and had a door. Put the figure in, close door and turn on the light. Usually the figure was completely dry in 3 to 5 hrs.

While I do not use oils, I do primarily use enamels which also have a long drying time (especially gloss enamels). I built a very similar drying box, and it has sure been well worth it. I find a similar drying time with gloss enamels, and it has sure speeded up my work on models with slow drying finishes!