hello guys.
when dry brushing an olive drab finish, you’ll just dry brush it with a lighter shade of olive drab right?
what if it’s a 3-color camo? what color should i use for dry brushing?
i’m sorry if i posted this topic here at the armory division instead of posting it on the painting topics.
since we’re number 1, i can conclude that we get the most readers, so we also have the most replies. hehe
thanks!
I’d like to know too, especially since 2/3rds of my tanks are three-color camo patterns.
Well… Here’s a thought…and don’t take this the wrong way… Why would you dry brush? I have not dry brushed a model in years. To be perfectly honest what force in nature deposits a lighter shade of the base coat on a vehicle? Dust and such collects in the corners. If you so desire try using very light washes (filters) and full local washes to achieve the blotchy appearance I think you are trying to represent. Also if you are handy with a airbrush you can use that to discolor the paint. Use very thin paint to slowly build up color.
I realize I am rubbing some folks the wrong way. But its just my two cents…
If you do want to drybrush. I would go with the base color since the other colors are applied over it an not all that great a paint.
Good luck with whatever you choose… lIke I said this was not intended to step on toes its just an option… after all it is personal choice…
peace
Hmmm, Keneth, interesting food for thought.
Here’s my 2 cents…I’ve never considered dry brushing to represent dirt and deposits. I figure that’s what washes do. The dry brushing is meant to represent worn paint, sun bleached paint, and highlights due to the way the surrounding light reflects off higer surfaces at a steeper angle.
I could be totally up in the night on this. I’ve had a couple of days of partial sleep deprevation (read that to mean, I’m WAY tired!!).
I’m guessing a light, neutral colour like light grey or a light sand colour.
I agree with Michaelvk, above. Wash first, then I use armor sand or sand lightly drybrushed over all to bring out details and give an overall dusty appearance.
Bill,
I absolutly see what your saying, but it seems a lot of folks over do it…
As I said I am not trying to start anything… Just my opinon. I guess I got put off with drybrushing years back when it was all the rage to use what seemed like almost pure white to make details just jump out. I thought it looked a little odd. I freely admit that it has its uses…personally I used it on cloth items more than anything (wrinkled crusty canvas for instance)
Again it really is more of a personal preference…
Garrry I use a lighter version of the lightest color on the tank myself. Take a German WWII 3 color, I use a lightened “dark yellow”, however on the areas that are covererd in the green and red I do a super subtle highlight there or it stands out like a sore thumb. Theoretically you should use a lighter version of each color in the colored area but I’m lazy. [:D] All the drybrushing should be subtle anyway so just go slow with it and when you think you almost have enough, you’re probably there. If you’re doing “wear and tear” it can be heavier and should be the color of what’s underneath, primer,metal, rusty metal whatever.
Eric
I get you, Kenneth. I’ve seen some that I thought were way over the top on it. Looks like a poor job of showing a whitewash! I wasn’t trying to argumentative, either. Just stating opinion of humble self!! lol
Bill
thanks for the tips.
i’m planning to put some weathering on my stug and unimog. some scratches maybe from driving too close to a tree or some bullet holes. i think scratches can be done with dry drushing and the bullet holes from a soldering pen.
Kenneth: what’s filter wash? after the wash, you don’t dry brush?
Garry,
Here is a link to the weathering I use… Try some of it, try all of it… Just experiment a little. Find what looks good to YOU!! Good luck. Keep us updated…
Drybrushing is just to highlight the details of the model ,rivets ,bolts, and such I use just a slightly lighter color than the base, mix with a bit of white , I agree with kenneth in that anything much lighter makes the model look pasty . Unlike most modelers, I use artists oil paints ,just like my washes , they blend way better and are way more forgiving of mistakes ( drybrushing you always tend to hit the wrong places or have just a bit too much paint on the brush !) I always hated that phase of painting the most . It can just ruin a model if not done right ! Plus drybrushing tears your brushes right up .[B)] Good luck with it no matter how you do it !
That’s intriging Shawn. I agree about the brushes and pasty look. Do you mix the same consistancy as a wash? Just might try it myself.
thanks Kenneth!
very nice tips!
thanks Spector!
another question. if let’s say u put three similar tanks with the same camo colors side by side. would there camo pattern be exactly similar? like the curves etc…? are they painted on the battlefield?
I think the crew painted their own tanks in the field, thus they would all be more or less different. The paint was diluted with water, gasoline, and so on, thus the shades were quite varied.
I don’t drybrush too often. I only drybrush on areas where there is a great possibility of having wear by say being stepped on or rubbed against. I believe that most do drybrushing to add depth to the model. For me depth could come from shadows that come from lighting. A model is in 3D and could easily be presented to show depth through proper lighting. But I do believe that dry brushing is necessary to simulate wear. And I agree with erush. Use the lightest color in the camo scheme used on the subject.
Good luck.
Thanks for the help!