This will only be my second Piece of Armor, and my first higher-end kit, but I dove right in. Not sure how much of the PE I will use, as I have never used it before, we shall see. I think I will paint the dash area with the base coat at least, so I can put the gauge decals on, then Dul-coat just that area to seal them in. I am going to try my hand at some winter Camo, like on the Box. This is my first foray with individual tracks, I found the “ez tracks” to be more of a PITA than the regular ones on the sprues. I worked on making some for about 3 hours, and completed a whole 4-1/2"!!! Nothing too exciting to see just yet, but here goes nothing: Thanks!!! Rudy
O, nice, a 251, i never get enough of those. I built this one myself a couple of years ago. I rathe rliked it and i found the tracks a damn sight easier than 251 Fruils. Look forward to seeing more.
And it might actually inspire to finally get the diorama finished for mine.
The Dogg build a great one before and posted it on here which I was saving biut when they changed the site here we lost it.
Right now I’m building the251/7 which is basely the same parts. The tracks were giving me fits until I realized they go on one way only. Look at the bottom of the pads. You will see 3 “knobs”, one large one in the middle and two smaller ones closer to one side than the other. When you put the large one in the hold of the track make sure the side with the two smaller ones are next to the next track in the link, in your picture that would be on you left. After I realized that the tracks went much faster.
RudyOnWheels: I love your “can-do” attitude!, nice start. I’m looking forward to your winter camo’ work. Be sure to paint the vehicle it’s typical dunkelgelb (dark yellow) first THEN add the winter wash.
If you have any questions let us know, there are several experienced winter camo’ modelers here on the forum…myself included.
Thanks for following guys! Let me say, this “pak 37 or Pak 38” cannon is the most INFURIATING thing I have ever put together… THe instructions are terrible, dont show what order the parts go on, etc. I finally got tired of fighting with a couple of arms that were not allowing me to continue putting on other parts; and I replaced them with solder. I dont think anyone else will notice when Its painted. I also layed down a “base” coat of Model Master “Panzer Dunkelgelb 1943” tonight because of how this thing is built and shaped, there were too many places I’d never be able to paint when its assembled. I am interested in seeing a couple good thread on doing winter camo! Pics go from oldest at the top to latest at the bottom. Thanks for looking! Rudy
Some nice prgoress Ruby, seem to have got a grip of the gun. I tend to paint and weather the inside of my 251’s, then put the two halfs together and do the oputside separately.
thankd for the clarification BISH! I knew after I posted it that it was wrong, are’nt the “Pak” ones the large artillery cannons? I hope to get some work done on this thing this weekend. Still looking for some good thread on “winter camo”…
Well yes and no. All guns had their manner of concise nomenclature.
Your AT guns could be (very incomplete lists below: only sampling):
3.7cm PAK 35/36
5cm PAK 38
7.5cm PAK 40
7.5cm PAK 97/38
7.5cm PAK 41
8.8cm PAK 43
8.8cm PAK 41/43
etc.
AA guns:
2cm FlaK 30
2cm FlaK 38
3.7cm FlaK 37
3.7cm Flak 43
8.8cm Flak 18
8.8cm Flak 37
8.8cm Flak 41
etc.
Field Artillery
7.5cm FeldKanone (FK) 38
10cm Kanone 17
10cm Kanone 18
10.5cm leFH16 (leichte feld haubitze or light field howitzer)
10.5cm leFH18
10.5cm leFH18/40
15cm sFH18 (schwere feld haubtze or heavy field howitzer)
etc.
Same with all sorts of other artillery, tank guns, rocket artillery, etc.
Everything was laid out very plainly. In usage, a “Pak 40” is assumed to be the widely used 7.5cm. But look at “Flak 37” – you’d have to say either 3.7cm Flak 37 or 8.8cm Flak 37. The caliber weapon officially preceded the model number.
A very good encyclopedia is Ian Hogg’s German Artillery of World War Two
(many of which can be had for less than USD20 on bookfinder.com)
Great choice on the 1/2 track, and it is looking great. I hope to add one of those to my “build list”. I will be watching to the end and enjoy the build.
These pics are over a week old, I have since done some detail painting of the shift knobs, the tank on the dash, and the ammunition magazines and ammo contained therin. I also fixed the shifter I broke off again (not seen in these pics), and Gave up on thos godforsaken individual tracks. They are so damn small, (not like a larger tank) and It is nearly impossible to keep the glue from running where it should not be. I bought some fruilmodel tracks, and have spent most of my modeling time Picking out items to make a nice diorama (my first) for my Uncle, in Memory of his father who just passed, a Korean-war Veteran of the First Cavalry, in field artillery. I think my uncle will be elated and love it when its done. I picked up a Bronco 155mm howitzer, and some verlinden Field artillery figures… I will get back after this halftrack tonight or tomorrow night with some further painting (holding up assembly) and the install of the new fruilmodel tracks when they show up. They will be my first set…
She is coming along nice. But i would not have high hopes for those Fruils. I love their tracks but found the 251 set a real night mare, personally, i found the Dragon tracks much easier to use.
It’s looking great Rudy. I don’t know if this will help you…but take painters tape and assemble the tracks on the sticky side up and once you have the tracks complete run your glue down the center of the tracks. Once the glue dries lightly lift the tracks off the tape. Picked up this from Karl’s (the dogg) tank build and detailing article in FSM. Good luck and it is looking sharp.
