Dot filter on the USS Yorktown??

[paintchips]

Hey everyone,

I have just started to build the 1/350th trumpeter USS Yorktown and i wanted to put some heavy weathering too her. I have only started the base structure so far, but do have the photo etch set and the Ms. 33-10a camo colors coming from White Ensigns.

My plan was to paint the white ensigns enamels first, then clear coat with future, then start the dot filter weathering mainly on the vertical surfaces with artist oils.

Since the ship will have 3 different colors on the vertical surfaces (Haze Grey, Ocean Grey, Navy Blue) i was wondering what colors to work with when dot filtering?

I was thinking light grey, dark grey, black, raw umber?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

[Tracy_White]

You might try some white as well; the 5-N would chalk as it aged.

[CapnMac82]

Remember, too, a carrier has a few thousand hands on board, many of whom need something to do, lest they get idle hands and up to no good. So, there are plently of people to scale, chip, needle-hammer, prime and repaint above-deck areas.

So, areas around the guns would have good (or patched) paint, but the sponsons, over the side would not. Islands would have decent painting ,too, especially the upper decks and catwalk areas, given the type and amount of brass in those regions–this can look very odd after a cruise (and not noticed during, you don’t spend time leaning over the rails looking at the hull much). Overhead areas, especially forward will likely weather and stay that way, no one wanting to rig scaffolding or the like and interfere with working areas or gun positions (especially since the Plan of the Day will have unannounced GQ drills while the deck apes are trying to do their jobs [the work of a blackshoe is never done ]).

The “towers” for the 5" directors will have worse paint near their tops, than down on deck–but, not to extent of wear the hull would have. Don’t forget, the area by the after companionway will be “the quarterdeck” and, as the official “front door” for the ship wil lbe better kept than other similar areas.

You really want weathered, and a way to break up colors, pick a spot around one of the gun sponsons, or the boat decks, and map out a scale-figure-high area and blob it out in red primer. Have an adjacent area in bare metal, too. Will look like they called away GQ or Flight Quarters or the like, right in the middle of painting.

Here’s some good CV-10 photos, a couple of very good ones of how the flight deck showed wear. http://www.navsource.org/archives/02/10.htm

[tankerbuilder]

Hey- paintchips-- Don,t forget that the ocean would do qiute a bit of damage to the paint at the bow and waterline. If you live near a seaport you,ll see car carriers and container ships come to port with large sections eroded away. Well, NAVY vessels at sea for long periods and long times between yard time would weather HARD in these areas. tankerbuilder

[Tracy_White]

Case in point; look at the first three photos on this CV-12 Damage report I posted:

http://www.researcheratlarge.com/Ships/CV12/1945FlightDeckMemo.html

[JMart]

To semi-hijack the thread, what is the consensus on what colors to use while dot-filtering vertical ship surfaces? I will be doing that on my USS Kidd soon.

I am talking about “normal” weathering, not extremes (nor “dock side shine” either of course).

Any difference depending on what grey you are using?

Modern vs WW2?

light grey, dark grey, black, raw umber = sound like a good combination

I was going to use a slight amount of orange/red around the anchor position.

Any comments/suggestions?

[Tracy_White]

Well, if you’re talking about a FILTER as opposed to streaks, a lot of it depends on what you’re trying to represent. Umber I tend to go easy on unless I want to represent a DIRTY surface. You’re talking about paint fading or darkening, so I try and stick with neutral colors for grays. If it’s a green color (like an amphib ship) I might use a bit of yellow instead of gray.

[paintchips]

I know its been forever since i checked this, but i wanted to say thank you to everyone for your comments. i am just finishing the assembly and hope to start painting in the next month. sorry, just don’t have the time i wish i had to put into these.

Thanks again, i will try to post pictures once i finish, but i have never done this before so we will see.

Take Care,

nate

[the_Baron]

Remember, too, a carrier has a few thousand hands on board, many of whom need something to do, lest they get idle hands and up to no good. So, there are plently of people to scale, chip, needle-hammer, prime and repaint above-deck areas.

So, areas around the guns would have good (or patched) paint, but the sponsons, over the side would not. Islands would have decent painting ,too, especially the upper decks and catwalk areas, given the type and amount of brass in those regions–this can look very odd after a cruise (and not noticed during, you don’t spend time leaning over the rails looking at the hull much). Overhead areas, especially forward will likely weather and stay that way, no one wanting to rig scaffolding or the like and interfere with working areas or gun positions (especially since the Plan of the Day will have unannounced GQ drills while the deck apes are trying to do their jobs [the work of a blackshoe is never done ]).

The “towers” for the 5" directors will have worse paint near their tops, than down on deck–but, not to extent of wear the hull would have. Don’t forget, the area by the after companionway will be “the quarterdeck” and, as the official “front door” for the ship wil lbe better kept than other similar areas.

You really want weathered, and a way to break up colors, pick a spot around one of the gun sponsons, or the boat decks, and map out a scale-figure-high area and blob it out in red primer. Have an adjacent area in bare metal, too. Will look like they called away GQ or Flight Quarters or the like, right in the middle of painting.

Here’s some good CV-10 photos, a couple of very good ones of how the flight deck showed wear. http://www.navsource.org/archives/02/10.htm

Thanks for that tip, Cap’n! That is something I would not have thought of. I have a Hasegawa Essex on my bench right now, I’m finishing her as she appeared in summer, 1943, and I’ll take this in mind, when it comes time to weather her.

Regards,

Brad