I have been planning a diorama using the large resin kit of the “Nautilus” from the Walt Disney version of “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.” The idea is to show the Nautilus in drydock being worked on by Captain Nemo’s engineers. I would like to make the design of the drydock a “period” piece by having it built of large oak timbers bound by riveted iron-work, to blend in with the 19th century styling of the ship itself. Does anyone have any ideas on a process to “age” the wood and iron-work to look like it has been drenched in sea water and then dried off as the water was pumped out of the drydock area?
I use the effect to “age” road signs in my figure dioramas. I use balsa to construct them. I then paint the sign a light to medium gray (or white if the sign was to have been white). Next, a very thin, dark wash is applied. This has the effect of really graying out the wood to a degree where it looks like wood on an old barn. it is gorgeous. Then, you can dry brush details as needed.
For your project you may want to paint the wooden fixtures a medium brown, and then apply the washes as needed (the more you apply, the darker the effect). Another benefit of the wash is that that since you have used wood to construct the piece, the wash will actually show off the “grain,” and it looks like real aged wood (which it is).
Hey Rob – thanks for the ideas on aging wood. I’ll give it a try. Also, do you (or does anyone else) have a similar technique for aging “metal.” I intend to wrap the wooden beams and planks with plastic strips built to look like hand-crafted iron work. I’m not sure a standard “rust” treatment would work, but maybe some combination of rust and some type of “corrosion” treatment to make it look like salt water had been eating on the iron. Any suggestions would be welcome.
BTW – I see, Rob, that you live in Warren, Ohio. Many years ago I lived in western Pennsylvania (Hermitage area) and went to college in Youngstown (YSU). I have family and friends scattered all over from Cleveland to Akron to Pittsburgh so I am very familiar with the area. I now live in Colorado (south of Denver, near Littleton…)
Hey Rob – thanks for the ideas on aging wood. I’ll give it a try. Also, do you (or does anyone else) have a similar technique for aging “metal.” I intend to wrap the wooden beams and planks with plastic strips built to look like hand-crafted iron work. I’m not sure a standard “rust” treatment would work, but maybe some combination of rust and some type of “corrosion” treatment to make it look like salt water had been eating on the iron. Any suggestions would be welcome.
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I hope you don’t mind, but I created a new topic in our newly created Techniques forum in regards to “aging” metal. You can find the new topic here.
One way you can age the metal is just like when you weather tank tracks. Start by painting the metal parts a rusty color. Then dry brush them a darker shade of silver. After that add rust and grime with washes. I think this method will achieve the desired effect your looking for. Hope this is of help to you. The Diorama sounds pretty cool.[8D]
OK – I’ll definitely keep in mind to post images as the project commences. With everything else I have to do with work and my other various freelance commitments (Fine Art, Photoshop work and VB/VBA computer programming…) I don’t expect to start this diorama until after the New Year.
I plan on keeping a complete photographic and diagrammatic record of this as I figured when it was done I might try to publish an article or two. I want to take my time though, as my wish is to produce a museum quality diorama. Right now I’m in the stage of gathering tips and techniques, deciding the overall look of the piece and compiling a list of possible materials.
I already know that before I’m done, I’ll have many different modeling techniques employed on this, from electrical wiring (for light effects) and figure sculpting to moldmaking and resin casting and, of course, many types of painting and weathering.
Above all, I plan to have fun with this. And I look forward to sharing the process with whoever is interested.
I have another idea on oxidized metal simulation that you might want to give some consideration to. Oddly enough I learned this through trial and error trying to simulate gravel in dried mud stuck to a 1/72 scale tank.
First, mix your paint until you acheive the “rust” tone you want and then paint a smooth base coat of that color on the components you want to be rusty in appearance.
Next, crush some pearlite (available in most well stocked gardening supply shops) until you get it to a consistency of something like baking soda. Mix the crushed pearlite with some of the rust colored paint in a saucer, or other largely flat surfaced container, until all the pearlite is covered completely with the paint. Once this is done, thin the mix to the consistency of milk just as you would thin normal paint for airbrush use.
Now, take an old soft bristle toothbrush and dip the tips of the bristles into the paint making certain that some pearlite is picked up in them. Point the bristles downward and drag your finger along the bristles so that when your finger moves across them they’ll spring back and spray the paint forward onto whatever it is you want your paint on.
You’ll want to spray the excess paint off the brush onto a paper towel or something before aiming it at your model.
I found this method gave a very convincing “gritty” effect to the paint when I tried to simulate gravel in mud. As rust is somewhat gritty itself, this may be a method you’ll want to experiment with. The smooth under coat I mentioned earlier will provde a consistency to your finished paint job that using the pearlite and paint mix alone will not capture so well.
I should note that I use acrylic paint almost exclusively in my modeling, so I cannot attest to how well this method might work with enamels.
Dear Tim,
I read your post with great interest. I thought of the same idea at least 5 years ago and even spoke to the late Nautilus expert Tom Scherman about it. He was most interested- but told me he belived the Nemo would’nt do such a thing. Still, I’m all for it. My plan was not to show the Nautilus under construction, but to show it hauled out of the water for work on a cradle on tracks- the same as a large boat yard would do. Having worked in a boat yard I’m familiar with this old technique.
Good luck and please post photos.
If you have any information you could e-mail me on the techniques for drydocking a ship (like a submarine) – or have any resources you could point me toward – I would be very grateful, as I am now in the stage of researching the project. I figured to construct a sort of massive “wooden beam” structure, strengthened by iron work and planked over in areas with service catwalks and the like. I would especially be interested in seeing any photos of standard drydock cradles that I could possibly use for structural ideas.
Interesting comment from Mr. Scherman about Nemo not doing something like that – how did he build the Nautilus in the first place?? [:)]
Anyway, I agree with you that it will make a good project anyhow. My thought was the same – not so much “building” the boat, but having it “serviced” in drydock – perhaps work being done on the engine area or repairs being made to the forward “rake” used to rip the ship hulls open.
Tim,
I’ll look through my old photo albums. I know I have a shot of a 65’ wooden boat I’m working on out of the water- still, you’ll have to use your imagination. Tom Scherman died a few years ago so the question of Nemo servicing the Nautilus will remain unanswered. I do have a shot of a remarkable model of a Nautilus “mothership” Scherman made for himself. Sort of the “Deathstar” of Nautilus’s. If you’re really interested I have infomation that may help you. Contact me at ; louis@ayrix.net
Here’s another thought on this, or any other, diorama – display options.
Problem One --I haven’t decided yet whether I want to have the diorama as a one-angle view with stuff on the sides and in the background with a possible backdrop; or whether I want to try something more ambitious and make this a diorama that can be viewed from all sides. The latter would, of course, mean more work as the model and diorama would need to have detail work done to be seen from all angles.
Problem Two – how to protect it. The obvious way would be to cover it with a case of some sort, but this model kit is a big one and I suspect that the finished piece of work may approach (or even exceed) three feet in length.
So here’s a question – does anyone know of a source for custom-sized glass or plexiglass cases. I have done carpentry and plexi work myself and wouldn’t mind trying to make a specialized case for this, but if there’s a reasonable cost alternative out there, this is omething that I just might out-source, mainly to save time and a bit of work.
Hello. I have never attempted a diorama but would really like to make one. Is there any sites I could visit that could give me some basics to get started. Sorry my question is off topic but any help would be appreciated. CHIMO!!!
Hello. I have never attempted a diorama but would really like to make one. Is there any sites I could visit that could give me some basics to get started. Sorry my question is off topic but any help would be appreciated. CHIMO!!!
There is a product which model railroaders have used for many years, called “Rustall”. Below you will find some information which I copied from their website (www.rustall.com). After rusting to the desired degree, you could drybrush some other colors to add the look of corrosion.
THE ORIGINAL
“RUSTS ANYTHING”
If you want it to look rusted and weathered,
nothing will do it better than RUSTALL
The patented RUSTALL Weathering System
is an easy to use product designed to simulate a
random rust pattern for weathering model trains,
military models, scale autos, and other miniatures.
RUSTALL will produce a random rust pattern on
metal, styrene, cast resin, and even paper.
RUSTALL is non corrosive, dries fast, won’t
craze plastic and cleans up with soap and water.
RUSTALL is quick, with just four easy steps and
requires no special equipment to produce
professional results.
copper sulfate will turn wood a grey color. But it is noxious and should be done outdoors. Or you could just paint the effect using washes. Grit(available at pet stores for birds) will make nice barnacles if you use putty as a binder and then press the grit into it before it drys. Once painted it will do a fair job as barnacles.
I have mixed varioius grit substances like fine sand, baking soda, salt, etc and “painted” this on in patterns. Once painted over it gives the impression of rust or pitted metal. Also if you want to go a little further, fine brass hit with ferric chloride will pit…and after it oxidises a bit will start to show vertigris. A nice effect.(just remember its an acid and should be handled accordingly)