I was just curious as to if molded instruments looked better than decals on instrument panels in aircraft cockpits. The reason I ask is that it seems that most of my 1/72 kits have decals, and, after I thought about it, I don’t think they look as good as molded detail, the reason being they don’t have a 3D look to them. The only problem is that I don’t have tons of money to buy resin or photoetched instrument panels and such for my models, but if that’s the only option, then I guess I’ll have to. Thx for reading through all my complaints:).
Why not use some thin plastic like the lids on coffee and cold drink cups and punch out the holes in the panel and place it over your decals use some thin clear plastic or even cellophane to represent the glass. A few small bits of scrap plastic and sprue to make some obvious surface detail and you have a “3D” instrument panel. I have used brass and aluminum tubing with bevelled edges to make inexpensive punches for the light wt. plastic. Takes a little time but the results are good. I did this on some old Monogram kits years ago.
Mel: You should post this on the ‘Tips’ page as it answers question that’s been asked many times and provide me with the solution I’ve been looking for. I also use plastic packaging to ‘mold’ on and reshape things. The curved ones make great gear doors and knees.[bow]
Molded detail looks better if you have the skill needed to paint them properly. In 1/72 especially, that may take quite a bit of skill. Actually, in 1/72 scale when the model is all buttoned up, the IP decals are at least acceptable if not optimal.
Regards, Rick
The decals are acceptable, alright, but nothing beats molded detail. Even when the canopy is closed you can see the difference.Of course, if you want this detail, expect to pay for it. These days though, even this doesn’t seem to be an option as even high end manufacturers seem to be designing down to a price. I guess it all boils down to “If you need it better, make it so”.
If the manufacturer only gives me a flat faced part and decals, I’ll usually go with it. How ever I get really ticked if the decal is larger than the part - time to dig thru my spare decals for a better set. If it has a well detailed and molded panel then it’s paint, dry brush, put drop of crystal clear and install it. The thing I really dislike is to be given a well detailed panel, a well detailed seat but little to no detail on the sidewalls especially if the canopy is to be open.
i use a technique of drilling out the dials the same size they were then painting a piece of white plastic sheetig black i then glue the sheeting to the back of the instrument panel and letting it dry then you can take a hobby knife and make a thin scrape on the black sheeting letting the white show through it looks very realistic although it does take a little practice
Razorblade has the right idea. I used it on a 1/72nd BF109F and it turned out extraordinarily well. Granted, it does take a bit of time, but it will improve your skills and grow a lot of patience. As far using decals for the panel, it depends on the quality of the decal artwork. A small drop of crystal clear on each individual instrument might work if you don’t want an open canopy.
DDRmaniac122002;
well my opinion is that decals look great for 1/72 scale kits because the cockpit are really tight, but when you get to 1/48 and larger then raised detail is best, I know some kits in 1/72 have raised details but not many, like the old Monograms F-4’s, F-104’s, F-105’s, and some of the very old ESCI’s ( now Italeri’s ) and alot of Italeri’s have raised details in the main offices of 1/72 aircraft, I can’t remenber if Hasegawa or the Tamiya’s have this in their kits, I haven’t built a 1/72 kit in 20+ years
I first spray the panel white, then glosscoat , then spray the rest black /grey /whatever.
then I carefully rub the black paint off the raised areas ( touch up with black etc as necessary)
when dry I use stretched sprue to apply a blob of PVA glue over the dial / MFD.
When this has dried clear I seal it (dial /MFD) only with Tamiya Acrylic Gloss varnish.
It is as simple as that!
oggy4624 and I share the same technique. I hate decals and I often scratchbuild raised detail. I haven’t on the Nav Av GB I am working on but most of the time I do. I just like 3 Dim. detail better. Looks Better!