I just finished putting decals on my RAH 66 Commanche.
Funny thing is that some of the decals get a lighter shade behind them after about 24 hours.
Some of them looks fine.
Here is the procedure I follow to put them on.
Am I missing something.
Rudie
Did you gloss coat the area behind the decals before applying the decal fluid?
You probably did but I thought I’d ask.
Karl
I agree with KJ200: it sounds as though you didn’t put a gloss coat on. And when you say “decal fluid”, what exactly does that mean? There are different types of setting solutions, and maybe you’re using an incompatible type with the decal brand that you’re using.
No I didin’t gloss coat behind.
Should I?
This is only the 3 rd model I am building.
I applied the decals to the matt paint of the aircraft.
The solution I used is Model Master Decal Setting Solution.
And I used the decals supplied with the Airfix kit.
Thanks
yup u need to gloss coat the area to be decalled first.
this is done to ensure no air bubbles are trapped between the
decal and paint.
any gloss coat product will work for this but
u must ensure it has fully dried after painting it on before decalling.
try future…swanny knows how here s the link http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
good luck!!
rudie,
Spray a couple of coats of Future Floor Polish on the entire model before you use decals on flat, or matte, paint. Failing to do so will cause what is known as silvering of your decals. Plus, the decals will have a tendency to come off of the model after awhile. Flat paints are not smooth; they have a microscopic rough finish. This will prevent the decals from sticking to the paint as it should, and cause the silvering mentioned earlier. A couple of light coats of Future Floor Polish (or any brand of clear gloss finish for models) should help you out tremendously. After the decals are applied & dried, spray the entire model with a clear flat finish (I use Microscale Micro Flat). Some people spray another coat of gloss finish, which is fine, then the flat coat. I just spray a flat coat directly on the decals, and have never had a problem. But you should spray another clear coat on the decals to help them stay on the model (helps to seal them, in other words). I usually don’t use a gloss coat on gloss paint until after I decal: I just don’t think that it’s necessary. Hope this helps you out.
Oh, I forgot to mention: When I apply my decals, I brush on a thin coat of Future to the spot where the decal is going to go. This is in addition to the coat of Future I’ve already sprayed on the model. It helps to prevent any silvering problems I usually have. And BOY, did I used to have silvering problems!!! But that’s another story…[:D]
Gary…what would be a good thinning solution and parts per, when using Future? I usually use the Microscale gloss but considering giving that up for something else.
Scott
yup…you need a good gloss coat behind the decals to have a “grip” surface for them…and also after you place the decals, to “dissapear” the edges of it…
Scott53
Most folks use Future straight from the bottle with no thinning.
Ray
Scott53,
Ray Marotta is correct - no thinning required. I, too, have used Microscale’s Micro Gloss, and it works very well, BUT, Future is a lot cheaper, mainly because you can by it by the quart, and Microscale’s stuff comes in small bottles, for about the same price as a quart of Future.
Is there a good site or article for improving kit decals? I’ve got a set that needs coating with something before I dip it in water (first decal is toast). I’m also considering making my own; what is a good decal coating once printed on decal paper?
GS
The best thing I’ve found is to use Testor’s Decal Bonder… It’s a spray-on carrier film designed to be used over self-made ink-jet printed decals…Spray it on in a couple of light coats and let dry COMPLETELY… Just be sure to trim close as you can to the decal, and DON’T get any on the back of the paper or you might as well have dipped the decal sheet into a can of varnish… It’ll never release from the paper if that stuff gets on the back-side…
What is happening is called ‘silvering’ and is air getting behind the decal. As everyone has already mentioned a gloss coat before decal application will generally fix this. You may be able to save those decals already in place by brushing Future across them and letting is soak into the decal. When all is dry mask any clear parts then apply a dull coat to blend everything together and seal the model. I see you are in S. Africa so when we talk about Future you may be puzzled, read this article for some better information on that subject … http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
Decal paper makers recommend Krylon Crystal Clear gloss or satin to seal or repair decals. I used it on my own custom made decals with excellent results and it works well with most decals setting solutions.
Don’t want to sound like Billy Mays for the stuff, but I’ve tried the Krylon as well as just about every other clear medium to save decals and I gotta say that the Testor’s Decal Bonder beats 'em all… It stays flexible where clear coats won’t, and takes decal setting solutions well…
If you try it and don’t like it it, lemme know… I’ll buy the un-used portion from ya…