Decals - can you apply over dullcote?

I have used clear gloss coat over acrylics - decaled and then applied gloss coat again.

Can you apply decals over dullcote with no problems. Or would you apply gloss cote - put on the decals and then apply dull cote?

Apply a Gloss coat, then decal, (set and sol if you want to) then your dull coat.

Two things about the way a lot of us do it,you don’t need to get a “high gloss” for decals, if you are going to use Set and Sol anyway, you only need enough clear to get a Satin/Semi-Gloss finish. And the other thing is that even though some of us cover our decals with a gloss coat, you can use any of the three sheens at that stage,the final coat is afterall, just to get the sheen you want and to seal the decals into your paint layer. Just because I use a Gloss and then my Satin or Flat over that for the final finish doesn’t mean you really Have To. (Flat, Gloss or Satin will all form “the sandwich”)

But, except for a very few modelers that seem to do it okay,it is much easier to keep decals from silvering if you don’t have them on a flat coat that traps all of that air underneath them.

hope this was of help

Rex

Thanks a lot Rex - good information

Dan

absolutely no decaling over flat(dull-cote)!!! you got the idea, gloss;decal;flat. with my work scheduale, the proccess takes 3 weeks, but 1 day between each works good

Decals over flat wouldn’t work, they wouldn’t go down properly and silver.You always apply them on gloss coat and then one more protective clear coat either flat or gloss depending on what the finish of your model will be.

Just a reminder that there is a decal forum in the Tools, Techniques and Reference Materials section. What to put under decals is a common thread.

Don, can you remember the name of the FSM author that doesn’t use clear coats on his models at all?

He just puts his decals on over the flat or gloss paints and applies Sol or something on them a few times and that is it. He also says he doesn’t handle his finished models much.

I only mention him because it works for him,and the 7 step method works for others,so, it is actually possible to do. (giving the possiblity for less steps and still getting good results)

Rex

Again, thanks guys.

Dan

Can you? Yes. Should you? Never.

My process is:

Gloss

Decals

Gloss

Wash

Satin

Filters

Flat

oh, uh, that would be me. Yeah, I never dull coat or seal my models. I just don’t think it’s necessary. And I DO put decals over dull-coat, on flat finishes.

Here’s how to do it. Place the decal down, coat it with Solvaset, and in about ten seconds, take a tissue thathas been wettedwith water and and press that over the decal. The water somewhat relaxes the action of the Solvaset, and you then press the decal into the finish using the wet tissue. Repeat as necessary. Sometimes it take three or four applications to get the decal to lay down without any bubbles underneath. But it CAN be done.

Thanks for posting The Doog, I always wanted to tell you how clever that is,the whole goal is to eliminate air trapped behind the decal,and your method seems to do that. ( I just couldn’t remember who it was)

As for that three or four applications deal,sometimes it takes that many tries with the “pinprick and re-Sol over Gloss” method too.

Just shows that there are multiple ways to do just about everything in this hobby.

Rex

Roger that, Rex! Always happy to help!

Flat or gloss will not cause “Silvering”. Silvering is caused by the construction phase of preparing the surface for painting.Modelers often skip that area which can cause problems.Micro mesh, wax,and motor tool polishing will help prep for a smooth surface .Painted or not…Good luck.And " Happy Holidays".