(this is cross-posted from the decal forum were there are fewer visitors)
After a 25-year break from modeling, I’m now trying to establish a finishing system based on the current technology that I’ve read about on various modeling sites. Working on a 1/72 A-10 kit, here’s what I did:
1 coat - Model Masters FS Enamel
3 coats – Future on decal areas (for gloss)
24-hour delay
Apply decals using Model Masters Decal Set solution
24-hour delay
2 coats – Future (for sealing)
24-hour delay
1 coat - Model Masters Flat Lacquer (rattle can)
30-minute delay
2ndcoat - Model Masters Flat Lacquer
I didn’t notice any problem until I had the second flat coat on. I saw then that most (but not all) of my decals had immediately bubbled up in a nasty chemical reaction. Yikes! I’d thought I was nearly done with this project. I went to bed hoping for the best but today the decals still look horrible although, oddly, they’re sealed nicely around their edges.
What did I do wrong to bubble the decals like that? I thought that maybe water (insufficient drying time) was a probable cause but some of the large decals stayed okay while some of the tiny decals that should have been plenty dry bubbled up.
Also, I was disappointed that two coats of dullcoat still didn’t hide the glossy panels where the decals are. It looks like I’d need three or even four coats to blend everything. I can’t proceed with that though until I fix the above problem.
Any comments or suggestions from those present would be appreciated.
I think your problem may lie with the lacquer final coat. There is always a problem when you use a mixture of enamels/water based/lacquer finishes.
Personally, I always use water based gloss and flat coats and steer well clear of lacquer. This stuff can be most damaging to paint and decals and although I know that there are systems of ‘barrier coats’ you can use between each stage, I simply do not use these finish eaters! In many years of modelling, I am of the firm opinion that water based gloss and flat varnishes are the only ones which do not risk damage to paint and decals.
The Micro Scale system has worked well for me over the years over gloss water based varnishes. Follow drying of the decals with a wipe with a damp cloth to remove any residue of Set or Sol and then spray over the decals with a water based gloss to seal and a waterbased flat to reduce shine.
Hope this helps.
I use pretty much the same system, the only difference is that I spray with my airbrush the flat Model Master coat. I have discovered that if I dilute the flat a lot, almost to the point of becoming a gloss coat (but not quite) I do not have problems and also I do not get the hasty white specs on the finish. I use Laquer thinner to dilute the Model Master Dullcoat and a really low air pressure. Also, always test the “dullness” of the spray on a piece of glass or an back of a CD against the light. It maybe necessary to apply a few of these light coats to get the same effect.
Maybe, the amount of Laquer from the can somehow eats through the Future. Laquer is a pretty strong stuff, you know.
One interesting solution I just read about is to completely wash away the decal glue before applying the decals using set/sol. The author claimed that decal glue can cause hazing, small bubbles, silvering and/or white specs under the clear coat.
Based on the time table you gave, you did everything correctly. Had to be that the flat lacquer was the culprit. Using lacquer in a rattle can is always risky as it is very easy to put too heavy a coat of paint on the model, and lacquer can be very corrosive to other finishes. I’ve used Testors Dullcote, applied with an AB, for years with very few problems. But like Swanny suggests, I have now switched to Polly Scale Flat & it is excellent.
I’m building it now and found that it has one of the poorest quality decal sheets I’ve ever come across.
When I did the cockpit panels the decal fell off the piece in the water after only 5 seconds and I had to rescue it. The two sides never did stay down even with setting solution following the instructions. Might have been something I did but the sheet feels thick(meaning it has little flimsy quality). Opposed to other sheets I’ve used that were protected by wax paper and higher quality. It just feels and looks like cheap decals.
I personially would not use a enamel based lacquer on future floor wax.Due to the distillins in the lacquer which is terpintine base,will eat throught the wax.I have learned this from stripping floors at one time in my life.Digger
Future is NOT a wax, it is a clear acrylic. [;)]
But I would agree that spraying a wet coat of lacquer on practically any underlying coat of clear is risky to say the least.
As Rick said above, it is better to put light, mist coats on to protect the underlying Future from the lacquer possibly attacking it.
I was wondering the same as jonas - 24 hrs min. between enamel paint and future coats.
I have been finishing my models with future and dullcote (sprayed from a/b) for a couple of years now with now ill effect.
Thinner, laquer, rubbing alcohol and ammonia are definate fiends to future if applied too heavy and left to set.
Thanks for the info on the academy decals. I am also building the same kit (earlier release) but am going to use 2bobs decals for IF birds (which also seperate from the sheet in under 5 secs, but nestle down so nicely they look painted on)
I would bet on time allowed for decals to set up. If it’s humid or the undercoats are still not dry the decals will not set up … Try giving more time between coats and decalling…
Based on feedback thus far, I’d put my problem down to spraying the lacquer dullcoat too heavily. Looking at my scrap plane where the same dullcoat looked fine in advance testing, I noticed that the dullcoat was only lightly applied that time. The coverage of the glossy areas was minimal though so I thought I’d go heavier on the real model. Obviously a bad idea but, given the number of people here who use it, I hadn’t considered it a risk.
The base (color) enamel was put down over a week earlier and given plenty of time to dry - sorry I left that out.
I like Future a LOT. Next time, I’ll try Future with Tamiya Flat Base mixed in instead. Less risky to the paint and decals and certainly less smelly that way.