I must be doing something wrong here ?? I put my decals in water, then apply microsol, then onto the model and apply mircoset. the outline of the decal can be seen as clear as day. I tried first applying future with a brush and let it dry overnight then applied the decal and still got the same result. HELP please. [?][:)]
Use the Micro Set first. Then coat the decal with Micro Sol (if needed). The Micro Sol will cause the decal to wrinkle. Don’t panic! That’s normal, and the decal should snuggle down to the model’s surface nicely.
Here’s the sequence I use from bare plastic to painted and finshed:
What I’m doing looks more like this:
- Paint
- Future
- Micro Set
- Decal
- Micro Sol (while decal is still wet – about 10 min. after putting decal down).
- More Micro Sol for decals over raised detail. Repeat as needed until the decal is really snuggled down. Poke pin holes over air bubbles and apply Micro Sol on them too.
- Future for a gloss over coat. Tamiya flat base can be added to the Future to make a semi-gloss or flat top coat, but I’ve not done that for my models yet.
Of course, leave plenty of time for drying between most of the steps. Steps 3-5 can be done in about 10 minutes per decal, but the rest of the steps require some drying time.
One key is to not soak the decal for more tha a few seconds in the water. Take it out, and let it sit for a few more seconds before tryint to put it on the model.
Hope that helps, and welcome to the forums.
Regards,
First of all, welcome![#welcome]
For starters, Microset is applied before Microsol. What I do is use a brush to apply Microset to the area where the decal is to be applied, then after 5-10 minutes I apply Microsol over the decal, also using a brush. Microsol well help the decal to “mold” to any uneven surfaces, lines, etc. on the model. After applying Microsol, the decal will often wrinkle some. DON’T PANIC, because this is normal. Resist the temptation to touch the decal. Let it dry, usually for about 24 hours, and a good decal will look almost as if it’s painted on.
When you say you can see the outline of the decal, I believe you are referring to what’s known as “silvering.” This is caused by air pockets forming underneath the decal, and is the result of applying a decal on a flat or matte finish. Since you mentioned you applied Future and still had problems, you probably already know about this. Possibly you didn’t apply enough future, or didn’t let it cure long enough before applying the decals.
Who makes the decals you’re using? Some brands/manufacturers are known for poor quality decals, and it might be a case of having to find someone who makes better decals.
Hope this helps. I’m sure others will chime in with better words of wisdom.
Mark
Thanks a lot guys this will help. I have been modelling for about a year now and I am learning but decaling was slowing me down. Again thanks for the advice I will implement it right away. I have a B-1B, F-16, Bradley, Abrams, Fw 190D-9 all waiting for their decals.[8)] Wish me luck - Dan
Good luck!
A key point everyone mentioned that needs to be stressed. Be sure to apply the decals over a gloss cost. Matt finishes will trap air which will cause the silvering you described.
I just visited the Forum to be shure I should apply “Future” before decaling on matte paints.
It’s better if applied to the whole model and let it dry for 24 hours. O.K ?
Welcome to the forum.
Yes, you are correct — apply Future to the entire model, let it dry thoroughly, apply the decals (with the setting solution of your choice), allow the decals to dry thoroughtly and apply a matt coat to seal the decals and dull the Future’s gloss finish.
Good luck.
Hi, Im a new modeler around here and having a hard time fiding
substitute for thous micro solvents (their not available in my country)
pls… tell me if clear flat will do the work!
There are quiet a few companies that make equivalent products, I personally use:
Mr Mark Setter & Mr Mark Softer
Both are made by Gunze Sangyo
Best ask at your LHS as to what is the equivalent stuff available where you are.
Hi, thanks for the infomation! I’ll find it over my hobby shop.
but would the clear flat also recomended for decaling? [?][:)]
Um, may I beg of your e-mail address?
mine is david_waves@yahoo.com
Decalling should NOT be done on flat surfaces, that’s why everybody here is talking about Future, personally I’ve never seen Future, so I use Humbroll Clear Cote. But any (shiny) clear cote should do.
As I get down to the “nitty gritty” I sure do love all the tips on this board. First off, I’d like to order decals from www.kedidecals.com (49th FIS, my old squadron). I have the 87th FIS decals (complete set). Can I foresee any problems? Has anyone else ordered from these people? Also, I had to use putty in some spots…Question: Can I airbrush the color (mil. spec.) right onto my F-106 and hide the “putty”? Dan C. , you mentioned “Humbroll Clear Cote” , can this be airbrushed on before decaling and then airbrushed after the decaling?
Thanks folks, Great to be Back,
Mike