Decal setting solution?

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Decaling
1

I’ve been building for years, and have never used a setting solution. Always moistened them in water, and slid them on, than when everything was dry, I’d either gloss coat or dullcoat the finished product.

I’ve never had a problem doing it this way.

What does the special solution do for the decals?

2

If that has worked then keep doing it.

I use setting solution (a couple of different brands) to make the decal sit better of irregualr surfaces. If there is a compound curve for example.

3

I use a decal setting solution to get rid of the “silvered” edge that can show up and also to help the decals snuggle down on irregular surfaces.

4

The best part of using solutions for me is that they help the decal lay down snug and flat, and prevent some of the air from being trapped underneath, giving a more consistent and even look. Also, MicroSet helps to keep the decals in place when you lay them on, so they don’t slide as much, and MicroSol helps to hide much of the edging. I also use them on tire decals so they look flat and don’t shine on the tires.

5

If you’re looking for a cheap alternative to decal setting solution, try white vinegar. I’ve experimented with it a bit and it did seem to work. Also, I believe there are two types of this solution:

  1. Setting solution - milder used for getting decals to snug down.
  2. Decal solvent - very powerful and will ‘wrinkle’ the decals (this goes away once the solvent has dried). It will also stretch them and allow them to conform to almost any surface texture or curvature.

Someone chime in if I’ve got it wrong!!

Murray

6

Murray Kish,

did you ever smell MicroSet - smells a bit like vinegar - coincidence…?[;)]

7

I think MicroSet smells like the washing solution I used to use developing photographs in the darkroom. It was a wetting agent that’s used to remove air and water from the film or print. Probably the same principle involved in the formulation…
Glenn

8

Whaz up,
The setting solution helps the decals adhere to the surfaces in general aswell as compound curves and the like.
In addition to helping the decal take form it also helps take out the lumps,bubbles and the silvering.
Basically once you have applied the solution and it does its magic, it will look like the decals were painted on and making them more realistic looking.
Flaps up,Mike

9

Solveset .
It helps get the decal to lay down easier over rivets and raised panel lines.
It also gets the decal to stick to the model better.

10

I can also recommend Solvaset, good stuff. But you have to be careful, it’s a bit strong for certain decals sometimes and may melt 'em. I’ve had this problem only rarely, though.

Fade to Black…

11

Hi, everybody,

recently i purchased a bottle of Testors “decal setting solution”, but i’m unsure whether to apply it on the surface before applying decals, or after? Another question for me is if these decal sets allow corrections e.g. putting decal into the panel line with toothpick, or will this ruin the decal?

12

glheald - Fixer or Fixer remover ? It was the fixer that used to get to me. Could NEVER wash that smell out of my darkroom towel !

13

I’m partial to Gunze’s Mr. Mark Softner. Pretty intense stuff, don’t touch the decal until it sets or it’ll be toast! Haven’t found a rivet or a seam yet that this stuff won’t sink into. Tried Micro Sol, pretty weak. Tastes good on salads though.

If you can’t do something well, learn to enjoy doing it poorly. [:p]

14

I used Mr Mark Softer on Tamiya decals recently.

It worked really well on most of them but seemed to react a bit with the Future and left ‘cloudy’ smudges under some of the decals…Perhaps there’s just no Future with Mr Mark Softer (hehhe)

15

Simon-

Had the same thing happen to me but I put the decals on less than three hours after applying the Future. Should have waited longer. A second coat of Future cured it completely!

the fish

16

Hi all,

Could somebody with some experience in the matter quickly go over the differences between MicroSol, MicroSet, and Solvaset (and other solutions that I may have missed)?

Thanks,

-Drew

17

Future! or Klear if you’re on this side of the pond.

you need a reasonably good gloss finish, but it doesn’t need to be a perfect high gloss finish. add a thin coat of future/klear where the decal will go and apply the decal while it’s still wet. Always gets better results for me than any setting solution, and because it’s wet you have a bit of time to move the decal into place before it sets, unlike MicroSet which tends to weld the decal to the surface pretty quickly.

I’ve also tried future and MicroSol together on more complex surfaces - wet future as above, decal above the future, then a bit of Sol on the decal, but be cautious with this as I’ve not done it this way very often - normally future alone is enough

18

Hi, Drew: you asked about the differences between MicroSet and MicroSol. I used them both back in the 1970’s. They were originally supposed to work together. The Set was a mild solution that you put on BEFORE the decal; the decal went on top of it. Then right away, you put the SOL on top and it sort of “melted” the decal to the surface. The MicroSol is a more powerful mix than the MicroSet. Over the years, I think they must have changed the formula, because I don’t they they work as well as they used to. Now, I put down a coat of MicroSet; add the decal and put more MicroSet on top. If the decal seems stubborn, I put on a very light coat of MicroSol with a small brush, to encourage it to snuggle down. But I do notice that the MicroSol tends to wrinkle the decal, and sometimes the wrinkles don’t come out again. I have never used Solveset, so I can’t comment on it.

19

Thanks for the update on Microset and Microsol. Solveset is (I think) much stronger than the other two products.

Thanks again,

-Drew