Darnit! Got flat flat finish on my canopy!

Any ideas on how to fix this, or am I screwed? While I was spraying my flat finish, somehow a small section of the mask peeled up on the inside of the canopy. The result is I have a flat haze covering about half of one of the window panes. It’s not much, but it’s way to noticable to ignore.

The plane is Tamiya’s 1/48 F4F-4 Wildcat. To add insult to injury, I seem to have lost the clear piece for the light on the right wing’s leading edge. Grrrr…

Other than those two problems, I’m extremely pleased with the job I’ve done on this one. It just irritates me that I can’t seem to finish one without a major screw up or two.

The fix is quite simple…

If you used an acrylic clear flat like Polly-scale, a cotton swab with a little rubbing alcohol should clean up the area.

If you used an enamel like Dullcote - the same cotton swab with a touch of white toothpaste will clean the area up. No gels - the old white, gritty type is what you need.

It acts like polishing compound to remove the haze. Of course, if you happen to have Novus plastic polish laying around, that would work too.

The key is patience. Don’t try to remove everything in 10 seconds.

Jeff

Thanks for the tip, Jeff. I used Krylon Matte Finish, lol. It actually produces a pretty good flat finish. I’m not exactly sure if it’s enamel or acrylic, though. I’m guessing enamel. I dipped the canopy in future before masking an painting the canopy.

I’m always amazed at the variety of things modelers discover to patch/fix/enhance their model.

I always wonder “How the heck did they arrive at that?” I mean- what was tried that didn’t work? That could be funny. :slight_smile:

You’ll probably need to polish the entire canopy. Once you start removing the clear flat residue, you’ll probably start to remove the Future as well.

Just remember to be gentle - clear plastic is brittle. Clear white toothpaste is your best bet unless you have a Novus set.

For a canopy like that, I’d predict 30-45 minutes of gentle scrubbing to remove the residue.

Jeff

Jon,

White toothpaste has been around for years in the hobby arena, primarily as a gentle polishing compound. Back in the old days, it was a little more abrasive than it is today, but you can still find some of the old brands - Crest, Colgate, Arm & Hammer, that use the original formulas.

The key is finding pastes that contain mica - it’s a mild abrasive. That’s actually what polishes the surface.

If nothing else, your models will smell minty.

Jeff

Sounds like I need to go back to the old stuff for my teeth also, hehe.

Tom’s of Maine toothpaste has an added benefit—the metal tubes it comes in make excellent heavy foil modeling material. Already primed and ready to paint.

I’ve always been wary of something that has a man’s name and his home state on a non-related product…

Bob of Idaho’s Genuine Alaskan peanut butter.
Jim of Arizona’s NY-style bagels.

Knowing my luck, Tom’s of Maine contains some secret chemical that makes you talk with a funny accent. [;)] Ayuh!

J

It contains propolis—you have a tendency to buzz and are attracted to bright flowers…[:-,]