Here’s the technique I use to duplicate a turning propeller…
http://gunsagogo.org/propblur.jpg
The illustration pretty much tells it like it is; please post if there’s any questions or clarifications required.
Thanks for lettering me share… [:)]
Frank
very, very awsome oldhooker. would this work the same for three bladed props? what kind of clear plastic did you use?
Thats cool i will have to try it sometime
Nice illustration. Looks like it took some work to put that together!
Do you have any pics of the finished item??
Murray
Hey Murray.
Here is the link to an “in-motion” dio that Frank did using this effect and one to give the illusion of movement.
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26584
It’s a very interesting effect, to say the least.
Randie [C):-)]
Thanks blackwolf, Themage, Murray, and Randie! [:)]
black:… I use the clear plastic like comes on greeting card boxes, and yes, this technique can be applied to mutible bladed props, you just have to cut them out accordingly.
Thanks for posting the link, Randie! [:)]
Take care,
Frank
That looks great, Frank.
Do you cut the plastic out for each prop or use a circle disc and paint the props on it?
Dan
Anytime, Frank. [;)]
Dan,
After measuring the correct prop diameters on the clear piece, I cut the entire circular disk out and placed it on my drill sanding disk. After spinning it on the course sandpaper (just a couple turns because any more, and the clear disk will look more FROSTED than streaked). I’d remove the streaked disk, and cut the prop shapes from that in one piece because it’s easier to handle that way. For three or four bladed props, it’s easier to keep them all phased properly for the application, but they could be prepared individually if you wanted to.
To replicate the “Thickness” at the base of the prop, you cut the kit supplied propeller blades into short, pointed stubs, sanded thin out toward the point, and attach the clear piece ONTO that stub… filling and sanding as required to get a uniform transition. Since this area will be solid, the airbrushed black or OD or silver or whatever, will blend the seam so well that it makes it look real… almost magically so!
Hope this helps… sometimes it’s hard for me to explain, I guess that’s why I resort to drawing illustrations. [:)]
Take care,
Frank
Frank-
Thanks for the explanation about the prop hubs and blade stubs…I couldn’t get that part from the iamage on my screen resolution…
Sam
Ditto on the explanation, Frank. You have a great way of showing motion. I am going to try this on my next plane.
Thanks again!
Dan
Randie, thanks for the link.
Frank, the pics in the link look really nice. I missed your post somehow??? Very impressed. It won’t happen for me soon, but I printed your post to put into my ‘inspiration/ideas’ folder!!
Very cool…
Murray
