Creating a Transparant figure.

Ok, this is going to be odd but I have a project in mind and it would require a translucent/transparent figure.

Think the predator in the movies, where it is visible but invisible.

I know its impossible to paint a figure like that so I was thinking, would it be better to;

A - make a figure in the pose I want, buy a vacuform machine or make one or something, and vacuform it into clear plastic

or

B - Get a mold making kit, make a mold if the figure and then use clear resin, ala the water effects, for it?

Resin.

Get some clear drying glue like Gator Grip to put the pieces together. I would finish with Future, and maybe, maybe, thin some Tamiya transparent blue or smoke and use it as a wash, accenting details just a smidge.

G

Here again, a box diorama with a limited/restricted viewing angle is the order of the day. Get the figure you want and paint it to closely match the backdrop. Alternatively, use a a one way mirror to get the reflection where you want the figure. Nothing is going to be clear enough to replicate the Predator’s defenses. You could not vacuform a figure with enough cut backs and even the clearest of resins will not give you a super clear figure.

Well, its not really predator but if I said what it really was you wouldnt know. I wana try and replicate one of the ‘Crimson Dragoons’ from Fallout 3’s Operation Anchorage DLC. Basicly a Chinese Special Ops/Sniper in a suit that allows for cloaking.

Thats a screenshot of the armor in use, you can BARLEY see, so its alot less visible then the predator’s…

Ill be honest ajl, Im not sure what you mean by using mirrors.

Hmmm… if I would give that a try where would one go to get the resin/mold making stuff, the material and release agent and such. I know micromark sells them but they are expensive.

To get a bubble free casting in clear it would have to be preasure cast.

In reference to the mirror thing look at the article in Shepherd Paines Diorama book.

I dont have shep paine’s book…

So I am basicly hearing that this idea cant be done without some serious machines. I am thinking of trying to do a camo where I just paint it as the ground scheme, because it would be a snow base, so just all white, more or less. gona test it out on some test stuff first

Apply a clear coat to it. That’ll make it be clear.

No need to thank me,

Eric

Find it on Google Books.

Smoothcast makes the best clear resin, but bubble-free is hard. My thought would it has to be forced perspective, and paint the figure in the colors of the background. The problem is the painting will be EXTREMELY hard.

Yea, Im thinking of forgoing this idea for the time being and just do a large scale version of the Fallout Pre war power armor then I was going to.

I want to see pics, I love me some Fallout, cant wait for all the high res texture pack mods to get released for New Vegas, my poor 5870 is not getting the workout it deserves

Oh, no! He we go again - " let’s put floor polish on our models!" No!!! LET’S NOT, AND SAY WE NEVER DID!! Paint, books, - listen, you don’t need any of this to make a model that should be translucent. The end result is only as good as the sculpt. You can make a similar version to what you see, but it won’t be exact since the resin itself is glossy, and will reflect light, and you can’t paint it, or even clear coat it with a flat paint without it being seen more than you desire. WWW.SMOOTHON.COM I know their prices are high, but you can get the resin in smaller amounts. If you don’t want to buy from there - WWW.TAPPLASTICS.COM may be your answer. They sell silicone mould resin, and epoxy which can be moulded, and it will be clear enough to represent your character. Their prices are reasonable too!

Just remember, with clear plastics, you don’t want a lof of detail, as all this makes it more appearant to the eye - less detail with the basic shape is what you want - little, or no ripple to reflect light waves. A satin finish won’t help, as this too, will define the surface, and detract from its’ translucence. With a clear surface it will still reflect light but it will allow more light rays to pass through it than a satin, or flat finish will. Make sure your model is as smooth as glass on the outside - this will determine the surface quality of the mould, and resulting cast. Lacquer makes for an excellent finish, but wait 3 minutes between coats for a smooth finish, and sray evenly over the master you’re using to make a mould with. The model will only be as good as the master, so do it right the first time - otherwise it could be costly!

~ Cobra Chris

Why bother? Seems like a lot of work with little result. Consider making a new character or dio that captures the action, technology and awe. Utilize the viewers’ imagination (and yours) to fill in some of the blanks. Otherwise, w/o complex molds and materials, you’ll probably end up with something that looks like wrinkled Saran Wrap holding a toy gun.

Smeagal:Wish I’d seen this a month ago. Well, I’m a day late and a dollar short but maybe this will be of some use. [:$]

I think what AJ was referring to is the ‘Pepper’s Ghost’ effect. You can use a shadow box, a piece of Plexiglas, a light source, and a figure. Set up in the right way you can have the figure project a semi-solid see-though effect. Disney uses this in their ‘Haunted Mansion’ ride as well as many haunted houses.

Wikipedia Article

Excellent Diagram

There are several more videos on You-Tube but this seemed to be the best.

You-Tube Demo Video

If you use a variable resister to change the light levels you can even have the figure fade in or out at the turn of a dial!

Transformation Box

Just drop ‘Pepper’s Ghost’ in your favorite search engine and you’ll get plenty of results.

I’m tempted to try to build my own shadow box now. Sorry that I really didn’t answer your question on transparent figures but I think this might both give more of the effect you’re looking for as well as being easier to build.