HEY,
I have some of this craft paint i got at the craft store that comes in like a tall botlle with a plastic flip lid. It acrylic and stuff, so i was wondering if id be able to put that through an airbrush once i thinned it and stuff, cuz i have this really red, red that id like to use for a body. Thanks for the info.
Randy
Randy,
Yes they will spray through the airbrush but most do not adhere to the plastic very well. I have a lot of Createx paints from when I used to airbrush T-shirts and it doesn’t adhere to plastic very well and it is one of the best out there.
You could try painting it and then after it dries really well clear coat it to protect it.
Mike
HEY,
Thanks mike, i just wanted to make sure it would go through the airbrush. Im sure it will stick because ive used it numerous times, almost half the bottle of black is gone and same for the red. Thanks again.
Randy
Randy, I have used it also, in my Badger360, but I was only using it to practice. I was only spraying poster board and styrene sheets. Certainly didn’t hurt the airbrush. I like the price of it, for practicing my skills, or the lack of them[:(] I would heed Mike V’s advise about adhereing to plastic tho.[^]
HEY,
Thanks
Randy
I airbrush these craft paints with great success all of the time. Of course, I use primer on everything, so paint adhesion is never a problem. The tiny bit of extra time spent priming is easily worth the effort. I get smoother finishes and I have good peace of mind that the final finish will be durable.
I thin with windshield wiper fluid. Even though they already come in a bazillion colors, they’re a lot of fun to mix into custom colors, and at under a buck a bottle (sometimes even $0.44 each!), it’s no great loss if a color mixing experiment doesn’t give the right result - just toss it and mix some more.
HEY,
Thats exactly what i was thinking, the mixtures you could come up with are endless. Thanks alot.
Randy
Yep. There’s a great book on color mixing called “Blue & Yellow Don’t Make Green”. It gave me a lot of insight on how to get good color mixes and avoid making “mud”.
Even though I don’t personally care for fluorescent colors by themselves, they are good to mix with “normal” colors to get them to have a bit of extra “pop”.
HEY,
Thanks for the book info. The only real flourescent color i like is Kawasaki gree, but only on lie motorcycles and stuff. Thanks again.
Randy
I didn’t mean the paints won’t stick to the plastic as they do stick very well, but try masking it and see what I mean. [;)]
That was my point.
Mike
Hmmm… I do mask fairly regularly as most of my models are multi-color jobs and have not had any lifting problems. I use a few different masking tapes, and although none of them are super high-tack, they’re not exceptionally “low-tack” tapes, either. My cure times aren’t even all that long, I typically shoot and mask for the next layer within a day. Of course, it does help that I live in exceptionally dry Colorado.
My best guess about why I’ve had good luck is that I use Benjamin Moore “Fresh Start” primer (thinned, of course). Yes, this is the stuff one buys by the gallon at the house paint store. Among professional house painters, this product is known to bond exceptionally well to all sorts of substrates and to subsequent top-coats. House painters must deal with all sorts of less-than-ideal substrates and good primers are the way they can have confidence in few callbacks. I did some experimentation a few years back and find that house paint primer is just great stuff even on finely detailed models.
I don’t use typical spray-can primers anymore, so I can’t comment on how well the craft paints will stick on top of those products.