armor belt https://catalog.archives.gov/id/75840436
never mind the hull as i have an idea on that but do you think you are capable of replacing everything from the main deck & up minus the main turrets & their barbetts & most of the funnel?
This is the belnder design of the parts I intend to replace.
It’s far from done but should give you an idea of what I had planned to do.
are you going to 3d print that casement section or scratch build it out of plastic sheet? i have the topview drawing of that main deck showing those casements & the plans of a 1916 Arizona i copied off ebay if you need.
Yes, the plan is to 3D print everything in that screen shot - and then some. I’m just getting started on the Blender design work, most of the measurements are currently just roughed in from pictures of the Revell model (for deck dimensions) and photos of pre WWI Arizona. I’ll need to actually measure the models cut back hull and adjust the design where needed before printing anything. I may leave the forward barbet, though it would be an easier cut to get rid of it.
Aha!
See Joe! I like printers for the idea of the Cage Masts. But that’s one of the few times I would find a use for it. The way I do things a printer would actually not be cost effective.
Hi Tanker,
I get that, I wouldn’t recommend them to most folks. The work sunk into learning a design tool, then actually creating desirable objects and successfully printing them, can be frustrating and painful, more so, if you don’t have a familiarity with the technology and enjoy doing those types of activities. Then you have the hazardous waste, toxic fumes and solvents to deal with, if you chose to go with a resin printer. For lots of reasons they’re not for everyone.
I’m surprised an old sea dog such as you doesn’t have a few thoughts on the paint scheme on the 1916 Arizona. Are you in the all Standard #5 camp too? I’m starting to think that is the case – curse those deceptive black and white photos!
Sorry TB somehow I missed your post!
If you need a pair of 1/200 scale cage masts let me know, guarantee we can work something out. Same for you Dave. though I’d be pretty surprised if they aren’t already on eBay.
Seeing how you two are getting into this era of Arizona, you guys must be looking into the most aesthetically pleasing color scheme too, or at least the most accurate? Any juicy nuggets there guys? What year are you two shooting for? I’m finding it hard to nail that down, I’d like to go with 1916 but a more interesting color scheme may have come out latter, and finding enough decent pictures in any one configuration is a bear - I’m a little worried I’ll end up making a Frankenstein’s monster mishmash of different era’s.
Maybe we should start a new thread: “Arizona the Super Dreadnought years”
TB at 1/200 I’ve been thinking about your project, you’ve got yourself a big canvas to work with. Arizona must be just over 3 foot long at that scale and wooden deck planking becomes a real option that big! 1/200 is all around way friendlier to traditional scratch building. How far along are you?
i’m doing the ww2 /post ww2 time period so will try to use the color schemes of that period. don’t think they make 1/429 scale cagemasts in 3d format.
Joe, if the planks on the real ship was 6" wide then divide by 200 scale gets you a plank .03" wide so not really feasible.
Sorry Dave I got confussed and thought you were doing the pre/post WWI dreadnought fleet. And I know you’re 100% correct about the planking though I’ve seen some good looking smaller scale builds that use wooden decking… but yeah at less then a 1mm/plank width, it couldn’t be acurate.
TB, how are you going the remove the blisters & fill in the voids resulting from the blisters removal? are you going to put the armor belt back on after fixing the hull like i did on my non-blister Tennessee?
Joe, is that your current built model of the Arizona as your avatar?
Nope, that’s actually a 1/450 scale USS Texas I 3d printed and assembled.
https://scalemodelguy.com/index.php/uss-texas-battleship-v2/
The 1917 Arizona 3D design is coming along well though I’m thinking It will be a devil to print, lots of filigree parts like the cage masts etc. Will likely take a few print efforts to dial in the thickness of things not to mention the fit onto the cutback Revell hull. The thickness of things typically ends up somewhere between reality and what will reliably print. Hopefully it will warm up soon, so I can try printing it and see what I end up with.
how fine of a print can you do as thinking about the cagemasts framework?
Very curious how that 3D model will be created,
Bill
In theory it can print details as small as .05mm but not structures - the cage masts are kind’a both, the many thin rods make up the structure but may be too weak to print the whole mast in one shot. I’ll not be surprised if the first few attempts end up stuck to the bottom of the resin vat in a heap… If so, I can either thicken them which I would hate to do as they are already too thick, or I can slice the masts up vertically into smaller chunks then glue and stack them back together.
I still have hope that they will print in on piece. I’ve already thickened the rods well past scale but not so much that they are stupid looking (I hope) Will be an interesting test for the printer, an original Elegoo Saturn.
do you have drawings for the cagemasts as i have some if you need?
Thanks Dave, but at this point I’m committed to what I’ve done. I’m at the test print stage - just need warmer weather as I print in a shed…
I still want to add a bunch of minor parts but here’s a picture of the current Blender render.
( color choices are not committed - just for looks J )
At the time of these photos the ships were painted all over the same color with the exception of the deck that was a bluish color over the teak they were made of.
As has been stated ‘color’ and ‘shade’ is a subjective matter with B&W photos, so the best you can do is look close and match shades with other parts of the ship. Also you must understand the shapes you are looking at and how they would affect the shade of the paint.
First the sides of the Arizona’s turrets were slanted a great deal. In fact all of the battleships turrets of the time were. That means they would catch more light and reflect it towards you eyes than the other parts of the ship.
With these points noted, the photos of all three of these ships show the turrets as being lighter, but knowing they were all over the same color it would have to be the reflected light that made the so. In addition the pictures of the Mississippi and the New York seems to be very light, but the cutout ‘deck’ area at the casements has the same bright shade also and we must assume that it is painted the same color as the side of the ship which is much darker. So I would say that the turret is the same color as the rest of the ship.
As for the silver turrets I would say that was most likely an instructions issue, either on purpose(I have never seen that) or a goof(never seen that either). When many of these kits were originally made the manufacturers were not building them for scale modelers like us. They were made for kits to build and there was not many books that were available to those kids to tell them how the ships looked for real. I know I was there and my local library had nothing.
As for the ventalators, I remember seeing color pictures of the 30’s and they were a dark red or maroon on the inside.
But it is your model and you paint is as you see fit and ignore any old fart, or not so old fart, who says you are wrong. Just have fun.
I hope this has helped,
Greg OB
Gregoblv thanks for the information. I’m on board with standard grey#5 for the hull, superstructure and yes the turrets [:(]. But you mention two things that I haven’t heard before, and I like - so I hope you’re on to something.
1 The vent insides were still painted a red hue into the 30s
2 The deck was blue
Any ideas on the shade of blue? Sea blue or navy would be my guess. Also any thoughts on if the deck were only blue during WWI? Making it a wartime color choice?
Thanks for the information guys, please keep it coming if you’ve got any!