This is the Tamiya Mustang III boxed with RAF markings. I picked up a set of AM decals for USAAF and gave it a shot. I’m happy with the kit for the most part. This was my first time applying a NMF and I learned what not to do next time using Alclad and buffing metalizers together. I tried to pose the Malcolm hood open but to no avail, hence the seam at the rear of the hood. Lost the tread on the main tires while removing a seam. Next time I’ll pick up a set of resin. I’ve heard the kit has some accuracey issues, but hey, it looks like a Mustang and thats good enough for me.
Constructive criticism is most welcome!
Just noticed I didn’t use enough future on the prop blades before decals. D’ogh!
What is the best way to take care of silvering on something like those prop decals, I do everything by the book it seams and I often get silvering on the little decals, what’s the best thing after they’re dry?
That’s a nice looking Mustang, and I think every kit has “accuracy issues” depending on who you ask, so I just don’t ask and don’t care all that much, if it’s not super obvious I don’t care if the proportions are a little off when compared to scale drawings or what ever the case may be.
That’s a sharp Mustang. Excellent job. Ca’t wait to start mine.
I never found a way to fix this problem once dry. The best way to prevent silvering in the first place is to first be sure the surface is as smooth as possible. If you shoot on a flat paint, you can knock it smooth with a soft cloth (wait at least overnight if using enamels, however). Next, spray on 2 or 3 coats of a clear gloss cote. You’re trying to fill in any low spots on the surface, as this is where the “silvering” happens. When you’re applying your decal, first apply a little setting solution to the surface. You want the solution to be under the decal. Now slap down the decal and follow up with your setting solution on the top side. You can blot it down with a moistened Q-Tip if necessary. This method I just described, if done correctly, will make those decals look painted on.
What has worked for me in teh past is to genty poke a bunch of holes inthe silvered area with the point of a hobby knife. Dip a Q-Tip in Future and kind of force it into the decal and it fills the air gap.
Outside of the silvering (which happens to all of us now and then), what an outstanding build. That’s a beautiful representation of the “B” version. You’ve got a fine model to display there.
Marc has outlined the “repair” procedure, but let me stress to NOT slice through the paint. A sharp hobby knife at a very slight angle should be enough to slice through the decal without damaging the fine paint job.
Can’t believe I did not catch that prop. I had it set aside from the airframe during construction and finishing. Oh well, I might have some spare decals for the blades, if so, I’ll just remove those and repaint - apply the markings (if the future idea does not work out).
The Alclad and Buffing Metalizer was not a real big pain. I found that the Testor’s stuff had to be sealed with future before I could mask panels or sections for the Alclad. Masking tape leaves a real nasty pattern on the Buffing Metalizer. I only had Aluminum plate and stainless steel in Alclad. I used the aluminum plate on most of the panels and the stainless on the struts. I used a couple different shades of metalizer on the remaing panels. The contrast doesn’t really come through in the images. Also the meatalizer had a nasty habit of smearing onto the invasion stripes. Had to seal it and touch up the white and black (the stripes are painted on). The national insignia will be painted over the the stripes next time I do a post D-day build. Does anyone make a pre-cut stencil for insignia ?
