I hope someone brought the problem your going to have with the suspension on the Panther G to light because your road wheels won’t be be level when you put the tracks on.
Why not? The arms are moveable.
Looking swell so far.
Thanks, Calvin and Tigerman, I got the markings on, but didn’t have time last night to take and post any pics. Now it’s on to tool painting!
Bill
To those following, all appears well in the antique airbrush department, the old Badger had a tweaked needle, $6.00 later, I am back in business.
I got the decals on, and toned down the “repair” painting on the front hull.
I also started painting the tools, quick question, what color should a fire extinguisher be?
Pics up tonight.
Bill
Looks great to me. I think we all have the free hand problem once in a while, but it does look much better with the touch ups and when the weathering is applied.
Rob
Hey Bill,
Glad to hear you got your AB problem fixed that would get frustrating quickly I imagine.
For German Armor the consensus I have found is Dunkelgelb or Panzergrau depending on the basecoat of the vehicle.
Can’t keep an old Badger down [:D] Good news for you and a cheap fix to the problem ( 6 dollars, I live in Europe, I could cry. No way it would be that cheap here [:(] )
cheers,
Julian
Assuming you’re asking about the external FE, it should be dunkelgelb for this model of Panther. [;)]
I got the tools painted up and installed (after some help from our own Schnobs [swg]), and just finished the first oil wash, Winsor and Newton water soluble raw umber, probably the first of two coats. On the second, I am going to try to impart some vertical streaking.
Here are some shots, the color is off on the last two tool closeups because I can’t white correct with the macro setting.
A question for those who have gone before me: This is my first attempt at decals, I used microsol and love how they went on, and sealed them with a flat coat after, but I confined the gloss and flat coats to the panels with decals on them. Now the tooth is different than the rest of the model, it looks “flat” but ir really smooth. I am concerned the decals won’t take washes and will remain as bright as they are now. Any ideas?
Comments always welcome.
Tools look good Bill, and glad to see you gave the wire cutters a different treatment to represent the Bakelite handles. [tup] Can’t really help you with the question on the tooth differences. I always put my sealing coats on the entire model to insure consistency as a rule.
Looks great Bill!
I read and pestered Karl though a number of emails about the Future sealer coat because I had read on a number of Forums about people that only put future or a gloss coat underneath the decals only and then only sealing over the decals in a localized application. I also read a lot of horror stories about the finish looking different. I have also read a number of posts where they were very successfull with the localized method.
I am very conservative and so I ended up being sucessful by following the following method:
I apply a coat of future to the entire upper surface of the Model. I do not spray the lower hull or running gear. After applying the decals i seal it with two light coats of MM Flat Acrylc. I remind you I am spraying acrlyics only and performing all my weathering washes with oils thinned in Oderless Mineral Spirits. So far this has worked out farly well but I am always wiling to change it up.
I don’t mean to spark a lively debate just sharing what has worked for me so far. All the paint could fall of my models tomorrow! [swg]
Tools look good to too. I use the same sealing method as Edmund and it works fine for me.
Over all the model looks great but the numbers don’t seem right for some reason. Could be that they should be on the forward turret plate, but I could be wrong. I’ve never seen the numbers that far back, hope I’m wrong, if so it would be great to see a reference pic for future use on my part. Just my 2 cents.
I can’t wait to see my favorite part, the weathering. Keep the pics coming, I like how this is looking.
Rob
The seal coat issue is hotly debated and will get a lot of… “Here’s what I do…” which is what oyu are about to get fro me[:D]
Generally if i am going to be putting a lot of decals, like I did when I was hot and heavy on aircraft The gloss coat fpor the decal went everywhere. That way everything stays even. With armor sometine it is only 3 or 4 decals. I use a drop of Future where thedecal will go, applythe wet decal in that puddle and smooth everything out. If it is on a flat sruface I will lighlty sand the decal with some 6000 micro mesh. This will take doen the carrier film edge a bit so you are less likey to see a ridge. And it will also give the marking a slighly weathered worn look. The whole modle gets a couple good coats of Dullcoat. Youi wont have to worry about the decal not taking the weathering. The Dullcoat layer will be what is takingthe weathering so it should be even. Markings over zim I skip the light sanding step.
The build looks great so far too. Tools look real nice.
Thanks, Bill, Edmund, Scratchmod and Wing_nut!
Scratchmod, I did do some research on this model, and determined that two number marking options were appropriate, this number and another, the other tanks from this unit with the bolt on roof armor had zimerit. Actually, this tank should have even more armor, over the intakes, but I didn’t add it. In reading these sources, I did not come across any criticism of the kit instructions and box are regarding placement, but I am pretty ignorant on this issue.
Maybe someone else has a picture to resolve it?
I did a couple dusty colored washes, oil paint of the raw umber and white, with a pinhead of yellow, more to age the paint than to impart a really "dusty look. Then i did a pin wash using burnt umber oil and mineral spirits. I am really happy with the pin wash, it’s easily the best one I have ever done. The key for me was a larger clean brush and some clean spirits to go over any unnatural accumulations.
Here are a few snaps while the dullcoat to protect what I’ve done from the next step dries.
When the flat dries, it’s on to the crazy psychadelic paint dots!
Comments always welcome.
Looking good Bill, the only thing I would suggest is perhaps play around with your white balance and/or change the background to a light blue or gray to help your camera. Some of the pics really take on a yellowish tinge (on my monitor at least) and I recall you saying something earlier about your macro settings not allowing a WB adjustment or similar…so a different background could help. Just a friendly suggestion. Looking forwad to the next set of pics. [;)]
Hey, Bill! You know, as I reached for the back of a desk calendar, which was white, instead of my baby blue backdrop, your post was there, in my head, like a conscience, and I did it anyway. You are correct, sir, and here is a blue backdrop, I added some “subtle” rusty/dirt stains from prominent hull features, of which there are not many on a panther, mostly the front glacis plate.
This should givea better idea of the true colors at this point. Still waiting for dullcoat to dry.
ETA, I see my teeny backdrop, which was stretched to cover the Sherman, is totally outclassed by heavier German armor. I’ll replace it presently.
Bill
Here are some shots after the dot filter treatment, and some very light chipping using some dark colors and a hint of orange, oil paints with a touch of steel.
I think I am done with everything except mud, and the final touch ups such as another pin wash. I also put the road wheels on, it’s almost time for tracks!
I’m realy interested in input at this point. I’m taking the weathering slowly, I think I will look at it tomorrow, but I am happy with the tonal variety I think I got, as well as the variety of colors, dark and light, in terms of streaking.
Thanks for looking,
Bill
Hey Bill!
The paint turned out great! [tup] Your washes really toned down and set the Camo patterns in nicely. I would suggest and it is just a suggestion to add a dust filter of some kind to tone and lighten the overall effect.
The Night Vision FAQ DVD on pigments was very helpful in demonstrating how to do this with pigments but it is real easy to overdo. Less is definitely more with that method.
Another method I have tried successfully is a very thinned Buff wash either applied by hand or sprayed with an air brush.
Just my [2c] of course. I can’t wait to do larger armor like that but I like the small stuff a lot. I guess I just like rooting for the underdog. Great work now get creative with stowage! Just again a suggestion! [swg]