in the F86 post, much confusion. Please chime in if you have used aluminum metallizers. Some of us are doing the mig killer, F86 and want to use metallizer but as pointed out, there are about as many opinions out there as-------. Anyway, HELP!!!
Well everyone has an opinion, so here is mine based on my experience. I don’t like Model Master buffing metalizers, primarily because the finish can’t take any handling and you can’t mask over it. Contrary to other opinions, my experience trying Future as a top-coat, with or without sealer, just makes it glossy and destroys the natural metal effect your’e trying to achieve. Alclad 2 ,if applied per the manufacturers instructions, gives a much superior and more durable finish. Just to confuse the issue, I also like to use Floquil “old silver”, a model railroad paint, as an overall finish and then mask and paint various panels with ModelMaster non-buffing aluminum and a few panels in non-buffing steel. FSM had a pretty extensive article several issues back which pretty much agreed with my experience using metallic paints. I don’t recall which issue but it would be worth searching the archives to read. Hope this helps.
Rick
nsclcctl
Left you a reply with a pic in your Mig Killer topic.
Seems that whatever works for one person doesn’t work for another.
I forgot to mention that I had no problem with masking over the MM metalizer sealer with a very low tack mask.
I do agree with rjk in that any type of sealer tends to ruin the NMF finish. Maybe because of the way the pigment reflects light from each little piece of pigment as they lay at different angles, and the sealers tend to blend them in together. I don’t know, I’m just guessing here.
One of these days I’m going to build three cheap A/C of the same kit and finish them in different ways. The only way for me to figure it all out.
Sorry I can’t be of more help.
stinger
Checked my stack of old FSM’s and found the article on applying mettalic finishes. It was an article by author Paul Boyer in the April 200 issue. If you can find it, it’s worth reading. I would offer 3 comments on the article after re-reading it. First, the author does not discuss Alclad 2, which was not being produced at that time. Second, the long drying time for Floquil Old Silver has not been my experience, but I thin with lacquer thinner rather than the Floquil thinner which could account for the difference. Third, the author used 3M Magic tape to test paint adhesion, which is pretty severe. There are many excellent low-tac tapes available that will do less damage to the finish.
I wish I had a digital camera so I could post pictures of 2 of my F-86 models, one done in Floquil Old Silver with ModelMaster non-buffing Aluminum highlighting several panels and one done with Alclad 2. Sadly my hobby budget won’t support another expensive toy. Hope this is helpful.
Rick
RJK
So, between the two, which do you think came out better.
Regarding masking tapes, I have been using Tamiya’s yellow with mixed results.
3M blue painters tape (I know’ it’s different than the Magic tape) is a bit too agressive, but did you know that there is a less tacky Purple tape availbale?
I haven’t tried it yet on models, but it’s my next step.
Thanks for the tip on that FSM article.
stinger
Stinger
I think Alclad 2 is slightly better but a little harder to apply because the recommended udercoating is essential to success. I use the Floquil more often because I am basically lazy. I like and use Tamiya tape, but for real low tac I use Draftsman masking tape. Getting hard to find because not much board work being done with CAD and all.
Iv’e seen painters tape in different colors but didn’t know there was a difference in adhesion. Will have to check that out.
Rick
Rick
I will admit that I am lazy, too, in that I didn’t use my bottle of Alclad because of the gloss black base coat. That’s probably the hardest color to paint well. It shows everything!
I forgot about the drafting tape. I’ll look for some and try it.
Hey nsclcctl - Sorry to get off topic.
stinger
Also agree with the CAD thing. I work in a construction trade, and I miss the days of hand drawn details. Too many phone calls for answers are the result. Very frustrating!
Agree with the MM comment about having to be extra-extra careful with handling. Seemed all I had to do with my P-38 was think about handling it and finger prints just appeared. One thing did save most of the prints. 8000 grit sand paper. Well…it’s not really grit (or sand paper) at that point but rather a “polishing abrasive”. It took the prints right off and the finish was fine in most areas. One area I got a little carried away and the metallic finish isn’t there anymore. Good thing that was on the underside. [:D]
I think I’ve seen as fine as 12,000 (2 microns!) grit for this stuff. Detail Master distributes this ultra-fine polishing abrasive in a number of stores, however the manufacturer brand is “Micro-mesh” made by Scientific Instrument Services, Inc. This stuff is a life saver from finger prints and uneven paint jobs! Wish I knew of this stuff long ago. Actually taking some of this stuff back to old models I never sealed and evening out imperfections.
Scientific Instrument Services, Inc. website - Micro-mesh products:
http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/
Stinger,
I recently saw drafting tape in a Michael’s Craft Store. They had both the 1/2" and 3/4" sizes. I would have to say that it probably can be found at Staples and Office Max as well. However, it is a bit pricey! I have been using the Blue painters tape with very good success. Both on painted and unpainted surfaces.
Ed
I never liked the look of MM metalizers. My favorites are Alcad (I’m lazy so I only let the base coat dry for a half hour and it still works great, worth the effort even if I did it right. I also like Humbrol’s Metalcoat polished steel. To bad you can’t still get Pactra enamel chrome, I used to love that.
orion
Thanks for that lead. I’ll check it out.
Regarding price: it’s worth a few extra bucks to me if I don’t have to fix an area of paint that was peeled off by the mask.
later, stinger