After completing a model that has metalized surfaces like Alcad or even just metallic paints, I get a ‘dirty’ look when I put a clear finish on. I have tried Testors sealer for metalized finishes and still lose the shinyness (is that a word?) that I had before the clear coat. I have used everything for clear finish from acrylic to lacquer. Anyone have any ‘bright’ ideas? (sorry, I had to)
what type of airbrush do you have? what air pressure are you shooting at? how close to the subject are you when applying the sealer? when you say dirty, do you mean its dull looking?
I use an inexpensive Badger and a Testors (both single action) at between 20 & 40psi and I try to lay down as light a coat as possible at a distance of 6 to 8 inches. Yes I do mean dull looking. In fact I have had the brushed alum. Alcad look like dark grey. My results are not always 100% unsatisfactory but we all are looking for consistency when finishing something we’ve spent a lot of time on. I try to record (read: remember) what I’ve done when things turn out well.
There’s a couple of things going on here. First, any overcoat will change the reflective properties of metallic paint. That’s one of the best things about Alcad - it doesn’t need an overcoat.
You are probably adding to the “dullness” by spraying at such a high pressure from that far away. I never spray above 20 psi, and most often between 10 & 15 psi. Paint applied at a high pressure at 6-8 inches away will cause the paint to partially dry on the way to the model’s surface. When I spray an overcoat, I’m seldom farther than 3 inches away.
Practice spraying at a lower pressure closer to the surface of a junk model or some shiny cardboard until you get used to it. Once you’re able to control it, you can get smooth, even coats consistently.
Hope this helps.
what else can i say, the pro above has pin pointed the advice you need to follow my friend. [#ditto] later.
Thanks, I plan on finishing a Mack MS fire pumper today so I’ll put your advice to work. Yes, the Alcad paints are great for not having to clear finish over (as are most of the automotive lacquers Iuse) but when I decal I like to put something over them.
For my natural metal-finished models I simply spray a final coat of Future over MM Metalizer. Future doesn’t deminish the shine or dull it out. I go lightly so as to avoid the “aluminum paint” look, if applied to heavy. The Future forms a tough barrier for the fraggile Metalizers and Alclad as well. I always get a very in-scale appearance using the good ol’ Future! FSM Magazine did an article on using Future as a final coat for Metalizers in the past several years. I don’t remmber the year or issue though. Give it a try! Happy Modelling!
As always, good advice, and cheap too!!! I knew I wouldn’t go wrong coming here. Thanks a bunch folks.
Chester
BTW, the Mack turned out great.
In the MM modeler’s technical guide it says:
" When clear coating over metallics, i.e., chrome, silver, copper, aluminum, DO NOT USE CLEAR TOP COAT ENAMEL! The enamel will deleaf or dull the metallics. Instead use Glosscote or Dullcote Lacquer! You can also use clear acrylics #50160 or #50161, as these will not dimish the reflectance of the metallics."
Now im sure you could use another brand of acrylic but the info is pretty to the point. As for alclad I agree there is no better finish than just buffing and leaving it natural. I hope this helps.
Sorrry, Pixilater, but I’m afraid I dislike your signatuire, the bastardization of our American Flag melded with the Japanese flag. One or the other, please. It’s probably because I was a rifleman with the 25th Infantry Division in WW II, contacted Malaria and was wounded by a Jap sniper in the Caraballo Mountains on Luzon (Philippines) in March of 1945. I realize things are different now , of course, (I’m 78 now, was 18 then) but we fought for our flag and loved our country and all it stood for then. I’m not resentful at you, it’s just the way I sincerely feel. Enjoy your modeling. I sure do…
Bill, i respect you my friend and your whole generation for the excellent job ya’ll did for our country and the world. i sincerely thank you from the bottom of my heart fellow. have a blessed day friend. i love my veterans. my grandfather was in the Hurricane Forest in 44 and he is 79. later.
Saltydog (kitbashed):—Thank you for your very kind words. I sincerely appreciate them! I read your posts when I am on Forum and you are extremely talented and helpful to me in many ways. Do you mean the Hurtgen Forest in Germany where your grandfather fought? That was a very rough fight indeed what with the tree burst sfrom German artillery plus the bitter cold…You should be proud of your grandfather…he went through a lot, like many of us. But we were glad to do it. Sorry this isn’t more along the lines of this forum, but I couildn’t help but express my opinion on the flag…Say, I am making Tamiya’s great Fairey Swordfish :48 scale torpedo plane and would like some information on how to paint (fashion?) the fur collars of the three men who rode in it. fAnyone help me here? Thanks in advance and God bless all of you…
A little belated, but I’d like to throw in my thanks as well. I had an uncle on Guadalcanal, a step-father with Patton, and a close friend I used to shoot with who was somewhere in Europe. Like Chris, I very much appreciate the fact that I am able to sit here today and type this enjoying the freedom that you guys bought us.
How about pipe cleaners? They take paint pretty well so you could make them whatever color you need.
Edit … Nah, now that I think about it they would be way too big.
In :48 scale, for the fur, I would say paint it a dark color, then drybrush a lighter color on. Just keep adding the little bits of color until it hits your tastes