Seeing a new post about Future and problems with, it urged me to update since my last post.
As I had noted, I had better success when I use the IPA method. A subsequent test produced the still better results, but it was not perfect. I still get the occasional globule that ruins it. To be fair, I might have needed to add more IPA. I had better luck on the first go. More testing is needed, I guess.
I found a few references where people use Windex as a thinner. Thinking, what the heck, I tried it. That actually worked very well. It sprayed well, and no globules. But… several days later I checked the test pieces and one of the spoons had a cracked eggshell look. On that piece, I really loaded it on heavy. I am sort of not surprised that there was a reaction because the Windex would have surely worked on the underlying paint. I kind of expected it because of how heavy and wet I applied it. I thought it a good experiment to see what happens. The base paint is enamel. On the other spoon, no cracking just yet.
That is where I am at. The jury is still out considering why the glove doesn’t fit. And if the glove doesn’t fit, you must QUIT. [:|] I am still mystified by people that say they don’t thin it. It is impossible for me to get a clean application without thinning. It is a mystery to me. Could it be the brand of airbrush? I have tried using two Badgers, both .5 needle.
I also ordered and tried Mission Models clear gloss. Foolish me, I listened to a guy rave about it on YouTube. On the video and from a distance his model sort of looked cloudy to me, but I thought, hey, it must be good the way he is talking. I get it, I try it, I hate it. Total flop. It produced a terrible finish, and it was a milky semigloss at best. Terrible. And I used their recommended thinner as well.
So, I just tried again using IPA, 50/50. No globules. Tried mist coats followed by heavy wet coats. It looked good while when wet but as it cured the underlying layers came through showing a pebbly finish, which I believe, are from the mist coats. I made sure the paint layer was smooth. Maybe I am expecting too much, not sure, but Pledge/Future is proving not to be what I am looking for. Unless the apeals court comes through with new evidence, Future, is hereby sentenced to non-use.
So maybe I will get and try Eaglecashes AK Gauzy recommendation, but I am quickly nearing the point of no joy status on acrylic clears. I have now tried a number of them and I have yet to find one that delivers for me.
Might be stuck using the more caustic solutions of Lacquer or other.
Your experiences with Future pretty much match my own, Bakster. I just couldn’t get the stuff to work right, and then there were all of the issues that come up later. I tried the Gauzy after seeing PlasticJunkie use it with his F-84, so the credit for the introduction of that stuff to our group definitely goes to him.
When I shoot mine, I go straight from the bottle into my airbrush (a Paasche H, which I usually use a #1 needle and cap on). I have mostly been using it after decaling and weathering because it does a great job of making decal edges a lot less prominent. I guess when it dries it forms kind of a fillet between the edge of the decal and the surface its on, so it looks really nice after the subsequent flat or semi-gloss clearcoat goes on for my aircraft models. For cleanup afterward, I use Windex.
You have not steered me wrong yet, my friend. I will order some and try it. Thanks for your thoughts and your process with it. I will report back once I receive and test it! [Y]
Here is some shots. I painted this with MM enamel with NO sanding or cleanup. Then the 2K, again, no cut and buff. This is both paint and clear straight from the AB and cured. It is so clear and reflective you can see my studio lights clearly in the paint. If I had spent some time smoothing out the MM it would be incredible, but the clear is perfect. I just wanted to see just how much it would hide, and I can say 95% of the paint flaws dissappeared when 2K was applied.
I use a food dehydrator to speed up drying time. It cuts the cure time by over 75%.
The brand I chose was the cheapest I could locate on Amazon. It was $85, but that’s a gallon of clear and the seperate hardener to go with it. I will NEVER have to buy clear again for cars. So the cost is cheap in the long run. The brand is SpeedOKote.
BK
FYI, the fender is just the test shot. I is from a different kit and won’t be used.
I ran it through my .5 needle AB at 20 PSI. Two light coats and waited for the it to flash, a min or two, then two heavy coats to give it that deep look. It will go an really heavy and not run. I was surprised how much I applied without any errors. It’s worth doing, IMPO.
