So for the kit I’m working on, I’ve decided to try the bare metal foil technique on the oleo struts. Problem is, I tried it on my older kit and it just didn’t look convincing.
I’d love to learn any tricks there might be to achieving a realistic look with the BMF. I’ve burnished, and smoothed as much as I can imagine…yet it still just looks sloppy somehow. [:(]
Any help?
Bri~
uilleann;
well I’ve ran into that same problem, but I went ahead and went back to the good ole stand by Testors Chrome Silver paint, which I think is the best because I could never get the seam to disappear
Right, the chrome paint seems to do alright, but it’s just not quite as nice a finish as the foil…if only I could get it to lay down smoothly. It’s not even so much the seam line for me, as just the overal finish doesn’t seem as smooth as I’d like it. I tried to be very careful when I layed it down to avoid any wrinkles etc.
Added to this on the craft I am modeling, there is a thin red strip of paint at the bottom of the silver section…how I’m going to replicate that I have no idea! LOL
I have never tried it, but what about Alclad lacquers. The finish is great, but it might be a bit hard to aply it on such a small area.
I’ve never used them before. I don’t know if it would really be worth the effort and cost as well, as they aren’t cheap and the areas to be painted are so small. I do have some of the Model Master buffing aluminum metalizer so perhaps I’ll have a shot with that. I could have sworn I’d seen somewhere that folks used the foil on bare oleos all the time though…maybe I was wrong?
Bri~
Brian, I have an idea for that thin red stripe on the oleo. You could buy some red decal film (for airline and car models mainly), and cut a thin strip. Stick it on with some setting agent and you should be fine. If you can’t find the right shade of red, you could also use clear or white decal film and spray a bit of red on top. The rest of the procedure should stay the same. Btw: I use Humbrol 191 chrome silver for the oleos, because I have similar problems with foil.[:-^]
How would you rate the Humbrol paints compared to MM enamels? And I was thinking of doing the decal thing…but no where have I been able to find any sheets with just some lines of solid color on them. Any guesses there either?
B~
Brian,
The Bare Metal Foil looks great on them I think.
You first have to make the plastic smooth for the Bare Metal to look smooth.
What I do is take a sanding strip for the Flex-I-File and cut it lengthwise to make a much thinner strip and use it to polish the oleo to a more round shape.
Some people use shiny aluminum tubing and cut out the oleo, drill holes in the top and bottom pieces of the strut and put the aluminum tubing into those holes. You don’t even have to paint it because it is already realistic looking.
Mike
I’ve given thought to the tubing idea as well and didn’t think there would be enough structural integrity in the piece if I cut the spring arms away as well…but maybe there would be after all. Hmmm…more possibilities to think of.
Thanks!
Humbrol paints vary in quality depending very much on the color. Some (mainly matt) colors tend to clog op the airbrush because they won’t thin well enough, but I’ve had that happen with a matt ModelMaster color as well. Maybe something to do with my skills?[:D] The satin and gloss colors are as good as any others I have used, and brush on well. The 191 chrome I use because it has the right metal tint for the job. I’ve used other metal shades (silver, aluminum, steel), but they don’t look right. Chrome is chrome [;)] 191 brushes on well, but I always add a tiny amount of thinner and work quickly, because the metal parts in the paint don’t want to stay evenly distributed. Well, it must sound like a horrible paint now, but it really isn’t.
Regarding the red strip decal sheets, I vaguely recall Hasegawa making some of those (about 15 years ago), but I haven’t seen those lately.
Bare Metal Foil Co. make a sheet of insignia red decal film nowadays, which (i believe) you can order via their website.
Bri,
I use BMF on oleos all the time - it’s really very easy and it looks good.
Just remove the mold parting seam on the oleo and carefully clean the edges so they’re sharp and clean, then carefully measure the exact width of the oleo. Cut a strip of BMF the same width, and wrap around the oleo. I guess the idea is to get the BMF exactly the same width so you don’t get any wrinkles.
Try it - it works.
Lee,
Your method is exactly what I tried to do and while the strips were indeed the correct width, they still didn’t lay down to a smooth finish. I almost went nuts trying to sand and polish down the round portions before I applied the BMF too - I can say with 100% surity, there were NO seams left. [:P] At any rate, it wasn’t just in one spot that the stuff seemed to wrinkle either.
The last thing I’ve noticed in looking at the struts I’ve done so far is that the chrome almost looks TOO bright. Most oleos will show some signs of vertical stieation right? (small scratches and lines running up their length) and won’t be a perfect mirror finish like a chromed bumper on a car…or am I wrong here too?
B~
You don’t say what scale you’re working in, but in 1/1 scale, if you can easily see any scratches on the chrome then it’s probably time for a leg change. so I wouldn’t worry about that. As for chrome tubing, yes, it will work (though it’s difficult to drill out the legs in 1/72nd, 1/48th is easier) try sewing needles. The torque links, cut the upper one away from the leg, leaving the links attached to the lower axle assembly. Reassemble using superglue, this will hold the metal in place too. Realign everything carefully!
Thinned down Humbrol chrome or polished aluminium works nicely on plastic oleo’s I’ve found, when dry you can even gently polish it using a Q tip.
As for the red decal, search your spares box, what about the red stripe from USAF stars’n’bars?
Pete
Pete thaks,
I’m working in 1:48. I don’t have a spares box as I’ve only been at this hobby again the last month after about a four year break. I did manage to find some red decals that I can use so that’s not a problem. I may give a shot to the aluminum rod thing as I think that would give the best look all in all. I think that the foil almost looks TOO chrome.
Are the bare oleo sections made of steel or aluminum anyway?
Thanks!
Bri~
For 1/48th, try using matte aluminium foil instead of the bright chrome. I work around aircraft every day, & the sheen of the oleo does vary. None of them have that super bright chrome look to them, but they are all shiny to some extent.
Chris Ish
Unless you are working in 1/32 and larger the easiest way is the Testors Chrome Silver and a fine line of red decal. Spend more time on your seams, paint job and decals than one small detail.
Gotcha Mel,
I don’t want to obsess over one or two parts but I’ve seen some models recently that this one detail looked so realistic I couldn’t take my eyes of the gear! I’ll give it a go here and post some photos to show how it looks when done. Thanks!
Bri~