just a quick question…
if two pieces are held together tightly (coz im workin on a shonky kit where the parts dont line up!) will capiliary aciton still draw the glue thru the seam?
thanks in advance!!
Nope… There has to be a slight gap so that the glue can flow. Using a slower setting glue such as Testor’s liquid cement will allow you to position the pieces for a good fit after initial glue application and prior to the platic welding and setting up.
Gip Winecoff
Depends…if there’s a channel similar to a recessed panel line and the glue is thin enough, it will be drawn along the seam. If the gap is too big and/or the glue is too thick, it won’t. Best bet it to try it and see.
thanks for the info, fellas!
styrene: makes sense mate… i built the parts in my head, doing what u said and it came out perfect hehehehe…seriously tho, i really like that idea…so simple…
ajlafleche: is there anyway to make glue even thinner to make it flow easier?
ps… i got a new camera after my last one got stolen/lost? ( its a long story…) and ill post some pics 2moz (when its daylight) of my current works ( italeri 1/72 apache longbow (its my first ab job, and i still cant get over how smooooooooth the paint came out!!) + hasegawa astro boy figure), coz its the only way i can tghink to thank all u guys for all the help!!!
Thinning glue? I’ve never heard of it (except for Elmer’s typ white glue) Consider changing brands. If you’re using only regular plastics Testors in the bottle, Teax 7R or Plastruct’s Plastic weld are commonly availabel at any decent hobby shop. You’ll want to use a finer brush than what’s supplied or find a drafting pen. Zap-A-Gap brand super glue may have a thin formulation as well.
I just hold it there cos capillary action seemed to melt the joints away, thus creating a sort of a canyon when dried.
I’m pondering about what to do for my currnet project.
I can’t get anywhere because the putty doesn’t stick, and the liquid cement shrinks!
i posted this question after i put the parts togeteher, but the way i did it was to hold the parts in place then i brushed tamiya extra thin over the seam, and blew on it straight away the help the excess evaporate. this way did join the parts, but i had to hold it longer than when i glue parts that fit, coz it would slowly ‘unbond’ and return to its original position. it seemed to bond ok, tho i dont like applying the glue that way… feels messy…will definently position the parts with tube glue and use tenax or tamiya for the rest next time…
jinithith2: there is a post somewhere in this section that explains a methid to fill gaps with stretched sprue and liquid glue, mayube this could help?
ok![:D]thanks!
cool Tom… yeah Tenax or Ambroids is the bomb!!! it will flow down in even small cracks and bond them… if you work an inch or so at the time you can line up the fuselage perfectly BEFORE you glue and hold it for 10 secs afterward and BAM!!! you are done!!! with the slower setting glues there is more time for the parts to move out of place, or if the body is slightly warped, can allow it to stress back to an odd position… I still use the Testors type glues but only for bits that have the pin/hole assembly type things… like inner pieces and ordnance and stuff… anything with a long seam gets the welding type glue…
—edit—
a capillary glue pen helps with them… it takes a bit of getting used to but if you allow a slight gap between the pieces it will flow down and then you have 10 secs or so to line it up… here is an idea on how to glue pieces with a capillary glue pen and Tenax or Ambroids… about halfway down. look for the razorblade in it!!!
http://www.accurate-miniatures.com/builds/sbd/sbdbuild.htm
good luck!!!