I have never dipped my canopys in future but want to start doing so.
I am a bit confused, though, on how to glue them on after dipping.
Do you scrape the Future off the edge of the canopy that is to be glued? I assume that regular glue will not adhere to the Future dipped part. Is this so?
Also I believe I read somewhere that you can use superglue if you dip the canopy in Future and it will not haze the clear plastic.
Would you just superglue on the canopy without scrapping the Future off the edge?
Personally, I’ve always just set them down with white glue or scraped a little and used Testor’s model cement. Haven’t heard of supergluing them, but would be interested to know if it’s true.
It doesn’t if your careful. If you load on the superglue it can still fog it. I use small dabs of superglue along with Micro crystal clear, just to help a subborn fitting canopy stay in place. I use Zap a gap CA.
I also used super glue several times on futured canopies and didn’t have problems with fogging. I used the glue sparingly, though. Anyhow, that’s what I always recommend for gluing canopies. Good luck and have a nice day
I use white glue to attach canopies. CA can craze clear parts, Futured or otherwise, but it seems to depend on how closed or open the space is. Apparently the crazing or clouding comes from fumes given off, as the glue cures. If there is enough air flow to prevent the build-up, you can apparently avoid it.
But even styrene glue can give some problems, if you drip or smudge it. That’s why I like white glue for clear parts.
Why use CA or styrene cement for canopies? One little slip-up and it’s pretty much ruined. I really see no need to use anything other than white glue or canopy/window cement. It’s not like canopies bear any sort of load, so the amount of adhesion white glue gives is usually more than sufficient, plus any smears are easily wiped off.
White glue has worked well for me,too. You can use Elmer’s glue, or a similar product called “Alleen’s Tacky Glue”. It’s thicker and stickier than Elmer’s, and it dries perfectly clear. No need to remove the paint from the surfaces to be glued, either. You can get tacky glue at Hobby Lobby or most craft stores.
While canopies don’t bear too much stress, I have had them come loose during removal of the masking tape. But this is rarer than windows. In both masking and removing masking tape from fuselage windows I have often had them come loose, and then rattle around inside the fuselage where they are unretrievable. So I always use epoxy for fuselage windows (bombers, airliners).
I also use Testors clear parts cement, but I sure don’t find it very strong. I have found NO white-glue-based cement that strong for gluing plastics. For canopies it is fine- if they break loose it isn’t hard to glue them back on. But for critical joints I don’t use white glue or the proprietary brands that are similar.
Foam safe CA is non-fuming and odorless. Haven’t tried it on clear styrene so can’t vouch for how well it will work. I have the Testor’s Clear Parts Cement, Pacer Formula 560 and Aleen’s Tacky Glue on hand. I’m sure one or the other will suffice.
In the past I have used Hypo GS watch crystal cement with great success. I stopped using it because the lid has this itty bitty pin that you have to stick back in the hole where the glue comes out. I had a heck of a time getting the lid on. The glue will keep oozing out until the lid is on. Meanwhile I’m having to attach/adjust the clear part to the model. I was having to choose between wasting the glue or having an incorrectly glued clear part.
I like using Micro Krystal-Klear. Seems to be a bit more tacky than the Testors product and it is easier to clean up the excess with a damp Q-tip. I stay away from the CA, Future dipped or not!
It’s usually pretty easy to take a sanding stick and just sand off the Future along the edges. With smaller parts I just leave it alone and hope for the best, but with something larger like a canopy it is easy. I like a secure bond and less worry of parts falling off and getting lost or broken.
On parts with frames that will be painted, I often (very carefully) use plastic solvent (Weld-on, Tenex, etc) to attach it, taking advantage of capillary action.