Can someone please supply my with information or links on the process of removing canopy seams, sanding (grit and procedure) and Future use? I did a search but really couldn’t find a step by step procedure.
Thanks!
I am a Future neophyte but www.swannysmodels.com under tips and techniques seems to be the default “go-to” website for such various and sundry questions.
You need to start sanding with the largest grit, then go down each successive grit. For example, I usually start with medium, go down to Fine, then xtra fine. At each point, the canopy will be scartched up, but don’t worry just continue. Finally you need to use a buffing or polishing stick, squadron sells them or you can buy one from the health/drug store in the ladies nails dept. Its a big tri color stick that has 3 grits. I don’t have it in front of me, but I think the gray one is usally the finest grit. Again you sand from the highest grit down and finally polish it with the polishing side (gray?). At this point, the seam is completely gone and the canopy will be clear again but may have a sligtht haze. You can even go finer if you use Novus plastic polish or toothpaste, but I usually find that its not needed. Then you dip the whole thing in future and it will be crystal clear, and I agree, go to Swanny’s site for the complete future discussion.
[#ditto] What more is to be said, other than brace the inside of the part with a bit of poster putty, so that the pressure of you holding & sanding it doesn’t cause it to crack. 'Nuff said [;)]
waikong brought up the sanding sticks from Squadron. I have all of theirs (coarse, medium, fine, veryfine,finishing tri-color). I usually use medium first and work finer. Each time you switch grit, switch direction. Once I am finished with the sanding sticks, I pikced up a Micromesh plastic polishing kit from LGM enterprises. The box says 1627 Sheboygan WI 53081 414-457-6033. I have had this for a few years, so I am not 100% sure the number is still correct. ANyway. I use those (4000 grit up t0 12000 grit again switching directions with each grit), use the plastic polish included then dip in future. Sounds like a lot of work, but it goes really fast and is pretty easy
Here is one place that carries that polishing kit
http://www.accountwizard.com/clients/shop.asp?web=parkadehobbies&outsidelink=item&value=HCAR3425
Thanks for the responses. A follow up question is: Should I be sanding the INSIDE of the canopy also? The reason I ask is that some canopies have a warped look to them and I am wondering if by sanding the entire canopy and not just the seam, will this make the canopy look like real glass? Or does the future part of this process take care of the warped look?
I would only sand the inside if you absolutely needed to correct a scratch or blemish. Otherwise, the future usually makes it look crystal clear. Trouble with sanding inside is one, the tight area you are working in makes it tough to reach and 2.) outward pressure on the canopy inside could crack it or worse.