canopy masking

Modeling Subjects Aircraft
1

hello all,

looking for some input on some ways of masking canopys.

i have been masking with bare metal foil,but i have a problem.

when i remove the foil it leaves some adhesive behind in the canopy.

i read an article a while ago about dipping the canopy in future first,letting it harden

then apply the mask. but the modeler was using the edward masking kit.

they are made of vinyl i think,never used them,but would this work for using foil?

thanks.

2

Using future works on every level for canopies. A good thing to read is here It will help you with what you need to know.

3

I didn’t see anything about masking canopies in that article.

I use 1/16 inch pactra hobby masking tape. Burnish carefully with a toothpic, do parallel lines (obviously)…and go slow. Its tedious and it works, period!

So it takes a week to do it…you know what…do one line a night (TEN MINUTES)…while you are building the rest of the plane…when its time for the canopy…ITS ALREADY DONE.

4

thanks drew for the info.

5

I use Tamiya masking tape, 18MM (3/4 of an inch for everybody but Drew [:D]) Mask it, hold it to a light, and cut it out, works great for me and is pretty quick, plus its cheap, and doesnt leave any residue, and I have left it one for a few weeks before!

6

I use BMF for my masking, so I know what you are talking about with the left over residue. I simply buff the residue off with my finger, a Q-tip, or a soft lint-free rag. Works a treat!

7

I first dip my canopy parts in Future, then let them cure for a few days.

  • I use Tamiya masking tape and carefully stick it down on the canopy.
  • Take a toothpick to burnish the tape down over and around the framing.
  • Use a brand new #11 blade and carfully trim the tape cutting along the edges of the framing, being careful not to scratch the canopy (the future helps a bit in this regard).
  • Use a toothpick to gently peal up the little strips of tape on the framing.
  • Make sure the tape is nicely stuck on the clear parts by burnishing the tape down, especially along the edges as I don’t want paint to seep under the tape.
8

Whenever I mask a canopy, I dip it in future and then let it sit for at least 24 hours. Then I apply the BMF using a new clean blade and Q-tips. When it comes time to remove the BMF, I use a sharpened piece of sprue. Since it is no harder than the clear plastic,it won’t scratch it. Then, to remove any residue adhesive, I spray a q-tip with WD-40 and that usually removes it without crazing the plastic or removing the freshly applied paint.

9

thanks for all the ideas guys.

i will keep them all in mind.

theres nothing worse than screwing up the canopy after all the hard work

on the plane.

thanks again you guys are great!

jason.

10

You’re welcome, and good luck! Just remember to have fun, and post pics when you can!

11

Scotch brand frosty tape also works very well for masking canopy’s. Because it’s clear, it’s very easy to see the framing thru the tape to make your trim cuts. It leaves no residue and is light years cheaper than Tamiya tape. works great!!

Jerry

12

X 2. Been doing that way for years with good results. Just have to be careful on compound curves to get the edges burnished down.

Also would suggest to dust on several light coats with your airbrush to reduce the chance of paint bleeding under the mask.

Mark

13

i use dragonfly’s technique… frosty scotch tape and a sharp knife.

14

For you left over adhesive, try goo gone, manuf by Magic American and You can find this in local hardware store or home improvement stores. Goo Gone removes stuff such as tar, gum and stickers from quiet a few different surfaces. Use a Qtip and apply to area which is only affected by adhesive. becare full around decals, it might mess them up, by removing decals adhesive.