Hi everyone,
Ive noticed that on my mig washes, they say only apply over acrylics. If i were to wash a model painted with enamels, what would happen?
Also, when applying any wash, oil or premade, how long should i let it sit before brushing it off with a damp brush? I have been having soo much trouble with washes that I have been sticking with MIG pigments.
HELP!!
Mig washes are enamel,they would attack an uprotected enamel paint finish.You would need to seal the enamel with an acrylic clearcoat.
Depends, if using an oil wash you can wait 10, or even up to 20 min to wipe off given their slow drying time. With an acrylic wash, probably 5 min or so, but I would do some experimenting. Oil paints for me seem to be pretty forgiving. Also, the glossier the finish the easier the wash will wipe away.
Thanks Tojo,
So if i seal the enamel paint with a coat of Future, would that be ok to apply the Mig wash over it?
When i tried that before, i completely wiped off all of the wash, even inside the panel lines which I wanted them to stay in there. How long should i wait before brushing the wash off? And wht type of thinner should I use in a damp brush to wipe it off?
Nathan,
Can I use artist oils mixed with turpentine as a wash over enamel or acrylic paints, as long as they have been sprayed with a coat of Future?
This business about wiping off washes has confused me. Is this something that everyone does after doing a general wash, or is it usually done only to subtlise the effect if the wash wash too thick and concentrated? Ive never read or heard of anyone doing this after a was. Although, only too remove a wash to start over without stripping paint completely.
Yes, just let the future dry completely, 1 or 2 days. Also, I’ve read that some turpenoids are too strong and can mess with all types of paints. I use the turpenoid that comes in the blue/white bottle.
If you’re applying Future let it set for at least a couple hours, some people say a couple days but I think a couple hours is sufficient.
When I apply a wash I wipe it off with a q-tip moistened with mineral spirits. I use artist oils for my washes. This gives a more natural aged affect because the wash collects in all the nooks & crannies within the model. You wipe away the excess on the larger surface areas the same way you would panel lines on an aircraft. This creates the effect of grit & grime collecting around surface features the way it would in real life. It also provides contrast on the model itself as well.
You need a barrier between coats when aplying washes as Tojo stated. If you apply a wash over a gloss coat, you will not get the desired effect except pin washes on panel lines or sharp details like a grill or hatch lines. A wash over a flat finish will absorb the wash producing a better overall effect such as darkening and toning down a tank cammo scheme. It depends what king of effect you are after.