I don’t use acrylics for painting cowling parts, takes ages to dry and doesn’t leave a polishable surface in my opinion. But hey, that’s just me…[;)]
/Joel
This thread is useless without pics!!! [:p]
/Joel
Hey Joel, you DON’T want to see pics at this stage. It looks terrible! (This being a family show and all…)
I think I will have to remove all the paint (what’s the best way of doing this with laquer paint?) and slap on a layer of base coat. First time I’ve had such probs with TS paints. Maybe the nozzle is a bit different, bit it seems very “thin”. Coverage crappy and it tends to “pool” very easily - all corners and depressions seems to draw the paint like a magnet!
It is a very old can I only recently opened, but it’s very weird. I thought a second layer would help… alas, it worsened the problem! The colour itself, is what I wanted. Maybe not “correct”, but it looks right to me. Having worked with TS16 recently in our GB, I am very glad I went this way, as it will never look like a Camel bike in that shade of yellow! Maybe it’s just me, but I’d like to model the thing the way I perceive it to be.
Hmmm… (very thoughtfull)
Yesterday eve the paint has cured and looked MUCH better. I had to sand a little, since there seem to be a lot of stuff suddenly floating around in the air - all of which are magnetically inclined towards wet models… Gave it another quick layer (so thin you can actually still see the places where I had to sand a bit more). But now I’m happy and will give it the final coat(s) when more assembled.
Joel, here’s a pic to compare the Camel Yellow to the “normal” Yellow (TS16). The latter is what was suggested by Tamiya and is the colour I’m using in our GB - seen here on the Astra doors. For me, the Camel works better. Again, here is slight discolouration due to flash…
Seabee,
Sorry to say that Camel yellow will never match the real thing. Unless you like it this way. TS-16 definitely the closest match.
The photo actually does not do the colours justice. Was just to show the relative difference between the two. IRL the Camel yellow is brighter and the TS16 is almost luminous relative to it. It (Camel) came out too orangey on this photo, but it might just be exposure one the black background.
Cupcai, I do appreciate your comments! [tup] Thanks for them. You are one of the few who’ve come up close and personal with these guys. You may yet “convert” me! I have a build I’m busy with and will re-evaluate this once that one’s painting (TS16) is done. Still far from the bike’s exterior, so much time to change/lighten it, should it be needed.
I find it really hard to reproduce thoose engine colour which mostly made of either magnesium, alloy or some other high tech material. MM have lots of superb matelizer paint but the metallic powder in it is simply too shiny for GP bike engine. Normally I will not over weather the engine and other component too much as GP machines are always kept clean.
I have to agree with Joel about the acrylics, you guys that can make it work…I bow to you [bow] I think it’s crap on a bodyshell, of all cars I tried to paint with acrylics only one came through with an acceptable finish. On that one I had to do the hood three or four times before it worked out. Like Joel says, it’s hard to polish it out as it’s to soft. On my Pennzoil I tried two times with acrylics [|(] before I ordered the appropriate TS-color from HLJ…and whizzz…the paint work got on without any problems at all.
Niclas
Cupcai: Joel is the expert here. But what I tend to do is either go with metalizers or (most often) the Tamiya new metallic paints. The give it a very light wash & drybrush. I have recently discovered TS47 (I think) - light gunmetal. Had to use it on another kit. When it went on, some lights went on for me and I might very well try that ons my next engine, esp for that mix they want between metallic grey and X-32 (or is it 31?)
Proosen: TS paints rule for exterior finishing!! [:D] [#ditto] For me, well worth the expense.