I am a newbe to modeling and posted to the Introduce Yourself Forum
Thought I would just drop a short message to start things off. I have started with a D.H. Mosquito NF.XlX/J.30. The project is coming along slowly, albeit, no very pretty at ths moment, but had to have a ‘guinea pig’ to start on. No pretty, but I’m happy this the progress and what I have learned so far.
I will be trying my hand at various models to see where my forte lies, however, I like to try different types of kits.
Hope to post more later. No camera to set up photos, however, maybe I can mooch by daughter’d digital and use it, to post for constructive criticism.
Who says an old dog (geyser - 58 yrs young) can’t learn something new.
I’m glad you picked the Mossie! (one of my favorites!)
I have that one in my stash and some others already built (Matchbox,Hasegawa,Frog,Airfix, Monogram). I enjoyed them very much! Are you going to do the Swedish version? or the UK?
I am enjoying this so far. Have the pilots, and cockpit painted and assembled. Working on the wheel assemblies. The fuselage, wings and canopy are on. Need to do some putty filling.
I am doing the UK version complete with bombs and rockets. Trying to decide to use the decals or paint the stripes. Appears this would have to be done before the armaments are mounted underneath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am going to try my hand at brush painting, as a present I don’t have an airbrush or facilities to set one up.
Have to get a website before able to post pictures. Once I steal, I mean borrow, a digital camera.
If you do them just right, the results are superior! I know for a fact, because I tried both methods and if you just have a brush, this is the way to go!
I had done the decals provided with the Airfix Beaufighter and I am pleased with the results. Use the Future treatment before you apply the decals and make sure no bubbles are present!
One suggestion. If you use the decals for the invasion stripes, mask and paint the area where they will go white. This way, the colors underneath wont have a chance to show through and spoil the white segments of the stripes.
And do learn to use photobucket.com. One of the best for free image hosting.
Thanks for the tip. Sounds interesting. I have been looking at the stripes for the fuselage and looks like they are all one piece and not individual stripes. I am open to all suggestions.
Before trying any painting, I going to have to research on how to thin (and ratio of paint to thinner) for applying with a brush.
John welcome to the FSM website and this great hobby we all enjoy. Try using a 35mm camera if you have one. If not a disposable one will do. Go to were you get your photos developed and then have them make you a CD and you can upload from there. That is if you can’t get to buy or borrow a digital. That works just as well to though and save a few steps.
I have been looking at the stripes for the fuselage and looks like they are all one piece and not individual stripes. I am open to all suggestions.
They usually are one piece - doesnt matter. The black will cover over the white under and the white-on-white wont matter. On the other hand, if you put the stripes over a camo finish, the odds are that the white will allow the under colors to show through and mar the effect.
Before trying any painting, I going to have to research on how to thin (and ratio of paint to thinner) for applying with a brush.
I have both enamels and acrylic.
This is the time/place for experimentation. Get some smooth plastic from the trash bin and practice. Typically for brush painting you will fall in somewhere around 80:20 paint-to-thinner.
You just want enough thinner to allow the paint to snuggle and smooth out. And you want clean paint - NO “bottom chunks”, bits of dried lid paint, hairs etc. Filter the paint after you stir it to remove any detritus.
But, the real trick (and the most often overlooked) is digging deep enough into your wallet for good BRUSHES. Get nothing but the best sable hair brushes, 1/4" and 1/2" wide, by 1/2"-3/4" long.
Well, as I promised, I have two photos of the assembly stage that I am at. I found it a challenge when I had to cut the nose piece to add the other one. This is the Airfix 1:72
This image is from the top showing the cockpit
The second photo is underneath of the aircraft.
I notice that I have to do some filling and sanding to get rid of the seams, etc. Since this is my first, I am happy with what I have accomplished so far.
Any constructive criticism, fire (but don’t shoot me [:D]) away, will be greatly appreciated.
Its looking good. Aint much to say, as you are on track.
But, since you asked for “tips,” lets talk about a special tool and call it a “tip,” Ok? You may alreadu have one, and if so, then the following will apply to those who don’t. I’m talking about the ‘Modelers Friend,’ a tool nearly as useful as the no. 11 knife - the “razor saw.” When it comes to lopping off sections of fuselage, pieces of plastic rod or chunks, or any of a zillion other cutting tasks, nothing does it as well as a razor back-saw. Much like a regular back-saw (the type normally associated with a mitre box), the “razor saw” is a fine toothed saw with a rigid back section.
They have something like 40+ teeth/inch and make a super-fine cut only .3mm wide! Mine is mounted in a good quality, adjustable file handle and I also made a cheap little mitre box from modeling plywood to go along with it. While the razor saw is sort of a special tool and ain’t the cheapest tool you’ll buy, I use mine on about every model I build for something or another. You’ll be glad you got one.
Now that I am back on line and have a digital camera, I am going to post photos of my first build. I found this build to be a challenge, especially since some of the parts were small and delicate. It is not the best, but for my very first attempt, I am satisfied with the results. I had to brush paint as I have no place in which to use an airbrush or spray cans. I learned a lot from this build, discovered some of my mistakes and now know how to correct them.[:D]
As my daughter said after looking at it, “It is just your first model, don’t expect perfection, if you enjoyed building the aircraft, that is what counts”
Reminds me of my first serious attempt as an adult…and it appears you were trying some things that maybe you got from FSM or these boards…and that’s how you hone your technique. Many little things might have made the build a bit more attractive…but for a first try…and as long as it was FUN(!)…well a big goal has been accomplished!
If you need to brush paint…there is all sorts of advice on these boards.
Nice job on a very complex paint job. That’s a great plane in a very attractive sceme. D-day stripes look great over a british camo scheme.
Since you asked - Here are some tips that I learned from experience and advice from others. (I’m a brush painter too - mostly with model master acrylics). When I’m painting with acrylics I like them as thin as they are when they’re new and right outa the bottle. As they sit out during the time I’m working, I sometimes have to add a drop of water to the puddle of paint on my pallette. I get the best results when I don’t try to hurry the job and get too much paint on all at once. It’s better to use two thin coats than one thick coat - that keeps the brush strokes invisible.
When I’m doing a multicolor sceme like a british camo, If there is a light underside color - then I paint that first. Then I paint the lightest topside color over the entire topside (even in the places where the darker colors will be). This reduces the tendency to get brush strokes near the areas where the two colors come together. Let the paint dry (24 hrs) Then I carefully mark out the areas where the darker topside color will be. A very light pencil - or even colored pencil (close to the darker color you will be painting) can be used to outline the area where you will add the darker color. I have heard of people using a copier to scale the painting instructions to the appropriate size, cutting them out - and then using them as a kind of template to outline where the colors should be on the model.
It’s impotant to note which side of the line you have to paint - It seems simple, but I can’t tell you how many times I’ve messed it up. It was really bad with a three color scheme that I did on a Dewoitine D520. That one gave me fits !
From the photos above - it looks like you painted the lighter color over the darker one. That’s difficult to do well and it usually requires thicker coats that show brush strokes more easily.
Looks like you did a great job on the decals - no silvering !
One other thing - I usually add just a touch of grey to the prop blades to make them appear different from the other black areas (like the spinners on this mossie). Whenever I’ve seen a real plane - the props are never black - they’re always some lighter shade.
Thanks to everyone for their comments and tips. I will take them to heart and try them on other models. Later on down the road it might be an experience to try this model again to see how I have improved. Not being very experienced with any type of painting, I found it a challenge. But again it is my first and one had to have a guinea pig to practice with. Know I learned a lot. Had a lot of problems with the smaller detail items, don’t have the steadiest hands nor the best eyesight anymore. Glasses don’t help especially bifocals, then having a magnifying glass. Think I am going to invest in one I can wear instead of having it hanging over the model which gets in the way on occasion.
Again thanks for all the great tips.
Now I am working on my Avro Arrow. White, redand black paint job for this one. Decals look a challenge depending on the version. I’ve put some pictures up already.
Good job on a first model…one thing that did catch my attention right away is that the right side of your plane is sitting higher than the left…looks like the undercarriage leg didn’t seat properly or is upside down??? Keep plugging away!
