I’m a 24 year-old ag-leadership student from College Station, Texas. I look forward to be a part of your forum community now that I’m getting back into modeling after a few years. I’m currently working on a Marine F-4J from VMFA-333, aka “Trip Treys” for my brother, who is currently serving withe 1st Recon near Falluja, Iraq. In June of 1972, VMFA-333 deployed on board the USS America (CVA-66) and conducted missions over Vietnam, and this will be the focus of my project. It is his favorite marine machine and I wanted to present it to him before he gets home from his second tour in October. This is my first major modelding effort in about 10 years, but the building and pre-wheather painting has gone pretty well so far. I need advice on how to wash my plane to make it look dirty. I’ve used flat enamels and am unsure of how to proceed beyond the basic tactical scheme. It looks great right now, but I want it to look like a war torn champion than many phatoms represent today. I’ve done much reading about pastels and washes, but I’m afraid that a wash might ruin an otherwise perfect paint job. I’ve scribed every single panel line and hand drilled every single rivet hole on this phantom, so this baby looks right. Can you mix pastels with water or clear windex to create a wash so it won’t react with the enamels I’ve laid down, or is it better to coat it with future and then brush on a dark tinted thinner? I really want to bring those lines and holes out! However, I’m conerned about applying a wash after I’ve applied the decals because I don’t want the paint underneath the decals to appear lighter or cleaner than the paint around it. (as has been my unfortunate experience with past models) How would I prevent this from happening? Next, what is the best way to create hydraulic oil staining and streaking across the fuselage? Finally, need info about creating realistic looking sidewinder and sparrow paint schemes from the vietnam era . . . the kit’s representation is just too simple for the level of detail I’m going for! Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Glad to have you aboard! Looks like we’re neighbors. I’m “just” down the road a piece in Burton, near Brenham. looking forward to seeing your work. Also, i’m sure you’ll get plenty of advice on how to proceed with your project. Plus, there are a few sections in this site that have lots of idea to help you further.[:)]
I would always spray a few coats of Future myself. The gloss will help the wash “flow” into the panels. I do believe a flat will not do bugger all as far as seeping into the panels making the wash just stay put. THis is a bad thing.
As for the wash, I have used everything from acryls & water, acryls & windex, and other contraptions, but I do find that a wash with pastel powders, distilled water, and a touch of dish soap work wonders for me. You can slop it on, and after it dries take a clean, soft cloth and wipe the excess off. The dish soap makes it wipe right off with no residue. BUT…always make sure to test first…[;)]
Hi Will, welcome to the forum. You will have a great time here and there is a vast wealth of information to be had around here. Some really great modelers that can pass on a lot of tecniques and skill.
So, VMFA-333, thats my old squadron when I was in the Corps and were still in the F-4J’s. Really loved those planes and was sad to see them go. I am no expert but the easiest way of doing panel lines for me is to give the model a gloss coat, I use Model Master on top of MM enamels. When dry I mix up some pastel chalks grounded to powder and mix with water and some dish detergent to help it flow into all the recesses and panel lines. Wipe off any excess you dont like and voila. Go as heavy or as light as you desire. The best part about this method is if you dont like the effect just wipe it all off and start again as it has no effect on the paint or decals. This also helps with getting the decals to look as worn as the paint job. Draft pencils are also an easy way that can be corrected. There are many ways and others on here can give you details on them. I like this method as it can be corrected if you dont like it and it also allowes you to experiment with what sutes your taste.
Hope you like the photos of my F-4, just a little inspiration for ya.
It is an honor to hear from someone who was actually in the squadron I’m modeling. What was your role for VMFA-333? Ironically when I posted today; I wondered if I would hear from someone who was actually in the “Shamrocks!” I have enjoyed researching this plane and chose VMFA-333 because the unit, as you already know, was deactivated in March of 1992. Also, the other squadron’s markings, VMFA-115, that were included on the same microscale sheet as your squadron’s just weren’t as appealing. Anyway, I really like your model pictures and I hope that mine turns out half as well as yours did. My scheme is a little different than yours, the decals are all grey and the letters on the tail are DN instead of AJ. The nose cone has a black anti-glare strip that only comes half-way down the nose cone and then extents straight back toward the cockpit. I’m sure you know the one of which I am refering. Through all of the research I did up until I started the build, I learned that the particular F4-J I am modeling (serial no. 155781) was converted into a QF-4 and sadly . . . you know the rest. But, that makes this project that much more Important. I love the F-4 because I think it has the most character of any of the modern jet fighters. I love the angles and lines on this plane and paired with it’s track record makes it one of my most favorite planes of all time. What size and brand is the model in your pics? This old Revell kit didn’t fit together so great, but after a lot of sanding and puttying was done I was satisfied with the overall build in the end; although I think a Hasegawa kit may have been a better way to go. Painting and detailing presents the overall greatest challenge for me with this build, since I’m am new to both painting with an air brush and using wheathering tecniques. The tips you and Sir Harry provided make perfect sense and are very helpful to me . . . thanks!
Eddie and camo-joe,
It’s good to know that I have a fellow modeler closeby! Camo, thanks for the kind words and prayers. I look forward to posting a few pics as I get closer to completion on this project. My next project is going to be a P-51B, modeled after my great uncle’s plane which was lost over Le Mans, France on June the 8th, 1944. . . two day’s after D-day. His name was Lt. Eacott Allen with the 4th fighter group out of Debden, England. I found examples of his plane on-line and its serial-no’s and designation letters were all available on the internet after searching a little. Just go’s to show you how great a resource the net is! Also, had another uncle who flew wildcats in the Guadalcanal campaign, but I’m trying not to get ahead of myself for now, haha. I have always had a special intrest in the military and planes/flying in particular, so I think that’s how I got started modeling, but I’m hoping that interest turns into a career. I have a year left here at Texas A&M, and then I hope to get a spot flying for the Marines or the Air Force. I plan on going to see some recruiters soon; in order to weigh my options. However, I don’t think my brother will let me live it down if I went Air Force, but if thats the only way to a pilots seat . . . so be it, though my heart remains with the corp.
Hi Will, I was with 333 in the 70’s and 80’s and worked primarely in ordinance. I was with a support wing and we serviced many squadrons. The one thing I hated was when they changed the colours to low-vis. The birds just did not look as good as the old green shamrocks etc. Of course it ripped my heart out when they were de-activated in 92. I could not believe it as well as the USS America being sunk as an artifical reef, just not a good way to go. I have build many F-4’s and like to build any aircraft the Corp flew. I have found the Hasegawa F-4J to be the best model around for both detail and fit. A little more pricey than the rest but worth the money in my opinion.
By the way fly Marines, no offence to the A.F but the Marines is the way to go. If you need any help during the build just ask and there are many on here who can help a lot.
Semper Fi,
Steve
PS the model is a 1/48 Hasegawa. I still want to build the Tamiya 1/32 that comes with the VMFA-333 decals.
