Build log: Boyington's Corsair 1/48 Update #3

Let the madness begin!

I’ve begun my next build, a Tamiya 1/48 scale F4U-1A Corsair which will be built as the plane Boyington was shot down in. I’m also including an Aires 4225 Detail set, which provides a complete cockpit, engine, gun bays, wheel wells, and flaps, all in resin and photo etch. Each of these details is a kit all by itself, and the total number of parts included is over 100.

As is typical of a Tamiya kit, this one is finely detailed and so far the parts fit is clean and easy. I began with building the Aires cockpit, which basically replaces the entire Tamiya cockpit setup, except for the “stick.” The Aires cockpit is exquisitely detailed, which is a shame as a lot of it will be invisible once it is enclosed inside the fuselage. No matter, I’m going all out on this kit.

If you are going to build the Tamiya Corsair, it is worth much consideration as to how far you want to take the accuracy and detail. Out of the box, it’s going to look great. The Aires detail set adds much detail especially with the cockpit, engine and flaps, but at the expense of your sanity (well, my sanity at least). As I mentioned earlier, there are over 100 resin and pe parts in this set. The parts are beautiful. The instructions are a combination of hieroglyphs and Czech, and are terrible. The glyphs lack clarity as to where parts go. There is no mention of the amount of surgery you must perform on the Tamiya kit parts to make the Aires details fit. The cockpit alone is making me remove all of the molded-in detail in the two fuselage halves, and remove a section of the dash under the canopy from the two halves in order to make the Aires cockpit fit. Later, I’ll need to cut out the wing for the gun bays, cut out the fuselage halves for the engine, cut out the flaps for the new ones, cut the wheel wells…the list goes on. There is no guidance for this in any of the instructions. If you’ve never done this type of work, and have trouble figuring things out, please consider carefully if you want to add this Aires kit to your Corsair. It can be done, you tube is your friend, and slow and steady with heaps of patience will see you through!

All right, back to the topic at hand. As I mentioned, I began with the cockpit, applying primer with my new DSPIAE no wash airbrush with a .03mm needle using Mr Surfacer 1500 gray mixed 50/50 with Mr. Leveling Thinner. The primer went down smooth with no clogs or hiccups.


I must mention that prior to primer, I did assemble a few PE pieces and the foot pedals. Once they were cured, the sub assemblies were shot with a mixture of 2 parts Tamiya Flat Yellow XF-3 to 1 part Tamiya Flat Green XF-5 to make Zinc Chromate Green, thinned with mineral spirits,and shot through my Paasche single action airbrush with a .03mm needle.

Next I hand painted Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black X-18, Red Brown XF-64, Flat Red XF-7, Rubber Black XF-85, Flat Green XF-5, Chrome Silver X-11 to bring out the cockpit details. I used a 00 Winsor and Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable brush (I have the 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, in my arsenal).
I have to say, I was skeptical about “brush quality.” I knew that having good brushes was a must for this hobby, but couldn’t justify the expense of this type of brush until I tried one. Now, I highly recommend getting these brushes, you’ll thank me later. Overall, I think it looks great, but I was a little sloppy on the tanks in the base of the cockpit. They fortunately will not be seen by anyone but me, so I’m not stressing over it. I let things dry and did some assembly and dry fitting, which exposed the need for all the surgery discussed previously. You can see, some of the removal of the molded-in fuselage detail in this pic here:

I’ve applied a clear coat to the sub assemblies, so that I can apply some panel liner and wear and tear. Later today, I will finish surgery, matte coat, and assemble the cockpit sub assemblies.
The panel liner is Tamiya Black and Brown, the gloss and matte coats are Vallejo.

That’s it for now. Until next update, Happy Modeling!!

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I love the Corsair, following along closely!

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Oh yeah! I love an all-out fully detailed aircraft build. Hilarious about the cockpit instructions.

Following along for sure.

Two notes. Thinning Tamiya acrylics with mineral spirits?? And I totally agree about the kolinsky sable brushes. I picked up a set from the trains.com store and they changed the brush-painting game. That said, I still struggle with brush painting Tamiya. I’ll stick to Vallejo for that.

Anyway — on with your build!! It’s been decades since I read Baa Baa Black Sheep but it’s sitting here on the shelf right behind me….

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Yeah. They are acrylics but I read somewhere that they are alcohol based, or contain a lot of alcohol, and I’ve found the spirits work well. So does AK Drying Retarder. I agree that other paints are better for brushing but I’m using what’s on hand.

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Got some quality bench time in today. as promised the cockpit subassemblies have been weathered, matt coated, and undergone final assembly:





As mentioned in my original post, I mentioned the fuselage halves needed surgery. I removed the molded-in cockpit detail, and removed the dashboard that goes beneath the front windscreen.


That second picture shows the cockpit in preliminary dry fit. Once all was cut out, I re-dry fit the cockpit capsule into the fuselage halves along with the windscreen. The windscreen, once painted, will do a great job of covering any gap. I’ll be adding some putty nonetheless.



The next dry fit revealed that I still need to remove the two molded lines that center the kit cockpit into place (inside the fuselage halves). The interfere with the placement of the Aires cockpit capsule.
Next, on to motor assembly. This has many parts and fiddly bits. I can’t start tomorrow, as I need to go to the dentist. Believe me, I would much rather be modeling. Until next time: Happy Modeling!

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I have begun the fabrication phase of the Aires detailed engine kit for the Corsair. A couple of things about this kit. It is highly detailed and has many resin and pe parts, as well as a bunch of things you need to make yourself in order to get the most accurate engine possible. I began by removing the engine block, cylinder heads, and exhaust parts from the giant, solid resin blocks to which they were attached. This took many hours of sawing with surgical precision with a coping saw, a saw blade in my hobby knife handle, and scraping and sanding to get all of the unwanted resin off the parts. I then primed with Mr. surfacer 1500, followed by flat aluminum Tamiya acrylic through the airbrush.

Next I opted to dispense with the kit provided wire for making the pushrods, and made them from .5mm brass rod instead. Once cut to the proper size I test fit them into the engine block and cylinder heads which exposed more work to be done. In order to get a good fit without creating fits for me, I decided to use a .020 drill bit to make the pilot holes in the engine block much deeper, so that when I go to install the pushrods I can slide them up or down to precisely fit the rocker arms on top of the heads. There are 40 holes. Next, I began fabricating tiny horseshoe shaped drain tubes using the same .5mm brass rod which will fit into the heads between the pushrods, affixed to the cylinder head. I haven’t completed them all, as it is very tedious, tiny work and I needed a break. Hopefully you can see in the pictures what I’m talking about.



I’ve got six of 20 of the horseshoes complete so far, each of them carefully test fit into a cylinder head. I hope to have them all fabricated and everything glued up by next update. Then on to cutting more parts free and continuing the engine build.

Until then…Happy Modeling

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Great engineering on the metal adds. I like the extra-deep hole for easier positioning – I bet that light bulb felt good when it switched on. :grin:

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Engine work continues. Finally got all the drain tubes installed, cylinder heads mounted to the engine block, and all the pushrods installed. Pics:
First row of cylinder heads in at rear of engine…



And the next row in and complete…

Needless to say, very tedious work, about 3 days worth in total. Still needs coolant hoses, exhaust, plug wires, the list goes on. Then the rear of the engine. Whew! This is a kit all by itself.

I’m taking a break to visit the dentist tomorrow, and to figure out the next steps, as the instructions for this are cryptic at best. Until next time…Happy Modeling!

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