brushing with acryls is getting the best of me. It seems the paint is way to thin straight from the bottle. It doesn’t cover very well even after a few coats, bad , bad…im almost ready to go back to enamels!!
Any input would be greatly appreciated before I throw in the towel
thanks in advance
rich
what coulo9urs r u using? some paints r opaque, and r real hard top paint on without a primer, ie white, yellow and others…
Yeah, I try to avoid brush painting with Acrylics if I can help it. But, when I have to, it’s usually just for touch-up. I try to use the paint from the inside of the lid or on the rim, it’s a little thicker and I always mix up the innards of the bottle wth a toothpick or a stick to get the thicker paint to the top if I need more.Perhaps, someone here knows of a thickening agent. Don’t give up! Good luck.
50/50 cut of paint to Tamiya thinner for brush painting.
I have used both MM gray primer and the white primer, and when i brush it on it is to thin…next why would you thin it more at a 50/50 rate when its already to thin to start with. maybe give up the brushing of the smaller parts and just use the airbrush?
Confused in North Dakota (maybe its the long long winter)
thxs
rich
I find that neither Model Master Acryl of Tamiya acrylics do the job well when it comes to hand-painting. They do provide nice results, but not without several applications. Generally, you’ll want to lay down the first coat, smoothly, and in one direction, without running the brush back and forth. Make sure this initial layer is dried well. I’ve found in the past with Tamiya paints that if the first layer isn’t reasonably dry, the second, if brushed back and forth, will remove the first. Definitely a pain, but it’s the nature of the beast. Even with enamels, I think you’ll be hard pressed to create a flawless, opaque result on the first layer.
The BEST acrylics i’ve found for hand painting are the Citadel colour range. They’re paints that cater to the Warhammer war-gaming crowd. Water based, non-toxic, and possibly the best results when it comes to hand-painting. Keep in mind however, the paint is not as thin as other hobby paints, so more care is needed not to overdo it, and most colours such as olive drab, will have to be mixed. They do have a wide range however, so I’m sure you’ll find a good basis to work from, if you chose to try them.
Hi Rich,
Greetings from slightly less colder and darker eastern MN. I do not know if this will help, but here is what I do: Wash model in warm (NOT hot) water with a drop of regular dish detergent, rinse and air dry. Lightly “paint” with Floquil’s plastic prep, allow to dry. Very, very lightly prime with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, or Testor’s Primer…this seems to give something the acryl paint can bite into. After each coat is applied these paints need a minimum of 24 hours to cure…yes, they touch dry in minutes, but if you do not want to rub off the previous coat, give it the full 24 hours. IMHO Testor’s Model Master Acryls usually brush well, followed by Polly S, and then Tamiya. I have heard great things about Extracrylics from the UK but have not found a local source yet. Hope this helps!
Zokissima - Vallejo paints are real similar to Citadel in quality, there are even some discussion on the RPG/figure forums as to is it better… They have the complete scale of military colors in their own line up… Color of Eagles acrylics are also by Vallejo and have all the air forces colors from WWII… both brush on extrememly well (even the color of eagles which are supposed to be pre-thinned for airbrushes) I tried them and am hooked!! Especially since you can order them on Great Models now! (the color of eagles paints)
I found by using something akin to the Badger paint mixer has really helped in brushing on MM acrylics… get’s a nice even look to things. I just went to the grocery store and bought one of those mini-mixers with a platic whip at the end and cut of the whip thing and just use the stick (which rotates very fast and in a vibrating pattern) and mix for about a minute straight… making sure I catch all the corners pigment might be hiding…
and I agree on the priming thing… white primer for light colors, grey primer for darker ones. really helps the color on top show without going on thick…
hmmm, I enjoy doing touch ups with MM acryl. It blend right in with the AB job.
Thanks for the info Tom. I’ve heard good things about Vallejo paints, so I’ll have to give them a try, and as you pointed out, their distinct advantage is that they contain a full range of military colours.
Zokissima - I swear by them… when airbrushing them I primer but just brushing on especially interior I dont bother… if you decide to airbrush them look for the Vallejo thinner as well… seems to aid in adhesion and drying…
good luck! some really nice colors, especially that Color of Eagles company that has their paints made by Vallejo…