Is it needed on the tail of this bird?
In the directions, it’s there on all the schemes, and I don’t have it, nor do I know where to find it…
Is there a color I can use in it’s place at all?
Because I really wanna paint something in (mostly ) the right colors for a change…
(The kit, if anyone’s wondering, is the ProModeler F-4 Phantom )
Almost all of the tail metal on the F-4 was titanium. It weathered different in different spots due to wether it was in the path of the exhaust or not. I would paint all the panels , including the tops and bottoms of the inboard part of the horizontal stabs, titanium. Then highlight with aluniminum on some of the panels on the side of the tail and around the tail cone, (the actual tailcone, dragchute door, was the same color as the jet, not metal) and the center section of the stabs. then add some burnt exhaust under the tail where the exhaust would go.
Thankyou for totally confuseing me 
lol
I just don’t know what most parts on the jet are called >.<
So, titanium paint will work? (I’ll just hold off on this kit till I can get some… I have all the other colors )
I didn’t plan on doing any sorta weathering, though… Wouldn’t the exhaust be weathering? (And where am I supposed to find the paint for that? )
Here, maybe these will help. They are photos of the tail of a Marines RF-4B but it is pretty typical of most F-4 tails. If you have any questions, just let me know.
Sorry Akuma, but every F-4 I ever saw had bare metal on the backside (I used to live very close to Edwards Airforce Base, They used to have trillions and triilions of 'em). It’s all titanium back there I believe.
You can use Alclad Titanium for it I believe, dont forget to use a gloss black base coat where you spray the Alclad.
they are right it is tianium , at least on my navy f4’s. wore out many diamond bites replaceing the tear drops on the leading edges while ship board.
Akuma,
Alclad is nice but it is expensive, and requires the additional step of “priming” with black paint. Testors Model Masters “Metalizer” paints have a Titanium metal color that is easy to use. It has to be airbrushed, but is easy and looks good. Try it you will like it. They have several shades of metal and some are “buffing” for a bright metal finish, and some are “non-buffing” for a dull metal finish.
As for learning the parts of the airplane, it takes time. Instruction sheets used to tell you what each part is, but most instructions now show you a part and an “international” symbol. Try your local library, or the “web”, for some good schematics that point out the various parts of an aircraft. Part of the fun of this hobby (lifestyle) is the learning process.
What color scheme are you going to apply to your Phantom, the South East Asia (SEA) camoflage scheme? Is that kit the “D” or the “E” model Phantom? rangerj
I could be wrong, but I seem to have read that the reason part of the dropping stabilator was left natural metal had to do with the exhaust heat’s effect on paint.
Looking at the Phanton from that angle always reminds me very clearly that the roots of the F-4 lie squarely in the McDonnell F-101 family. Just look at those overlapping plates on the tail keel. If you doubt it, place similar rear-angle pictures of a 101 next to those of the F-4.
Where did this idea that all alclad metal finishes have to be primed with gloss black paint come from? The only color Alclad itselfs says needs a black primer is chrome. All of the NMF I’ve done using Alclad were put on bare plastic that was polished with BareMetal brand plastic polish. I used superglue to fill all seams since when it is polished it has the same surface as the plastic. Tube fillers will always leave marks.
As I remember the lower “blast panels” were Titanium but the upper panels on the side were aluniminum. I haven’t work an F-4 in over 13 years so I could be wrong.
The F-4 stab is built out of a lot of different metals. The inboard forward section is made of titanium. The inboard aft section is made of nickel/titanium honey comb material. Running down the length of the stab is the stabilizer torque box which is forged out of steel/titanium.
The forward outboard section is aluminum covered box construction. The aft section is aluminum honey comb material.
The leading edges are forged titanium.
A beef up plate was added early in the F-4 life span. It is a wedge shaped panel made of thick stainless steel, rivited to the join area on top of the torque box. Many years later, (late 80"s) another beef up plate was added to the bottom of the stab.
The fuselage blast panels, directly behind the engines, are made of titinium. Heat from the engines will turn them black, even when cleaned up. A new blast panel will be a dull metal color.
Above the blast panels are the shingle panels. They are thin sheets of titinium, overlapped and sometimes sealed with red RTV. These crack and break frequently and are always being repaired or replaced. They tend to dull with age and look a lot like aluminum over time.
Eagle,
I just looked at every bottle of Alcad II I own and it says on the bottle to back it with a dark color! The articles in FSM and Scale Auto both recommend black acrylic or black laquer as an undercoat for best results. That is where the idea comes from, ie the manufacturer and the modeling literature. Is it necessary? If you get good results without the “primer” I’ll have to try it. rangerj
Hi ya Akuma … Great topic … getting the tail end of any F-4(x) Phantom II right can make or break a project … but, don’t let that scare you … pick-up an older/cheaper 1/48th scale F-4(x) and practice … then when you get to your ProModeler … you will “have the touch”. Good luck and keep us posted as to your progress … [swg]
Hi ya eagle334 … Great detail shots of the “south end of a north bound Phantom/4” … that’s the way they all looked. Sure miss 'em … [^]
FreedomEagle1953
They didn’t call the F-4 “Bent wing, broken tail, coal burning ace maker” for nothing. I loved the old bird. I worked on and around them for 20 of my 26 years in the USAF.
Hm, is there a Model Masters color for the jet exhaust?
And I think I get where the titanium bits are now 
thanks! (Course, if I need any more help, I’ll ask )
I dunno when I’ll actually get to the model, though…
RangerJ
When I picked up the set of Alclad II from the manufacturer at the Nats he told me the only color that needs the gloss black base was the chrome, which after trying both ways, with and without the black, it definately helps to have the gloss black. Plus, if you primer with a flat color would would have to sand it smooth to get a decent finish out of the Alclad since metalizers will show up everything. None of my bottles say anything about needing to be primed with a dark color. Priming with a dark color almost seems like it would defeat the propose, making the alclad appear darker than it really is. Maybe they are just trying to sell more of their primer. I have always had good luck spraying right onto bare plastic. Next time you have to spray it after you paint your primed model just try it on some bare plastic, that will give you an instant comparison between both ways. If you want to take a look at one of my NMF builds go here. http://photopile.com/photos/blackwolfscd/SFP001/16040.jpg
If you do try it both ways, let me know about your results.
Akuma,
You are in luck, there is a Model Master Jet Exhaust. It should look pretty nice on the tail of your phantom.
There is? Hm… I’ll have to look into it, and hope the local hobby shop has some… (Although they only carry enamel paints, and I don’t like hand brushing those -__- )
I’m going to probably put the F-4 off to the side for a while (The least I can do is build the second 1/144 one I have… heh )
Thanks eagle,
I don’t like the extra work of a “primer” or “base coat” either. I am definately going to try the alclad without the “undercoat”. Your results look great. Thanks again for the “heads up”. rangerj
Akuma,
Testers Model Master Meralizers produces about a dozen various shades of “natural metal”, including “jet exhaust”, titanium, polished (buffed)aluminum, steel, brass, etc. It is very easy to use and gives excelent results.
Model Master #1796, it is enamel. Ive only used it to do some weathering, but it has a nice subdued metalic sheen to it.
