Take a look at this thread:
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/156456.aspx?page=1
That piece you added between the decks is called a grub beam.
I am not sure just why it was a part of racing yachts, but it’s there and you were right to add it.
I am impressed so far with your efforts. I also agree with GM; planking the deck can be fun, and it would look great!
Bill
I took a look at the video of your planking. It does look great! What size wood strips were used?
I appreciate folks who take pictures of their models on cutting matts with scale grids.
Wiki lists her waterline length at 111’-11", and that looks to be 13"-14" about on your model. I get 1/8" = 1’-0" or 1/96 from that. Or maybe a little bigger, say 1/80 or so.
Then I looked at photos of the original ship. First, there are numerous patterns for planking big schooners. Bluenose looks to be the type where all of the planks are parallel to the fore-aft centerline. And using the trusty measuring tool of a sailors shoe, eight inches or so wide.
That sets your plank at around 3/32".
So now draw your centerline stem to stern. Some schooners like ones I’ve seen from the Grand Banks have quarterdeck planking at an angle that sort of follows the outboard profile and meets in the middle with long angles. It doesn’t seem to be the case here.
Those bulwark supports or stanchions are really extensions of the ships frames. They also are at the ends of the deck beams. The deck beams of course are where the deck plank ends are located.
Youve installed what looks to be every third or fourth stanchion. The original had a LOT of them. It also looks as though they were evenly spaced. There are plenty of drawings of Bluenose from which you could get an accurate spacing, but why complicate life with this nice little kit.
You want to draw a series of lines perpendicular to the centerline, spaced evenly and at each frame/ deck beam.
Now pick a plank length that’s a multiple of beams. These things could be pretty long, say 16 feet or so. More important though is to pick a length that matches a multiple of your deck beam spacing. A “Chopper” is helpful here.
The boatbuilder would have a rule like"8 by 4", for example. Every plank is eight beams long, every fourth plank has matching ends. They wouldn’t be the obvious step sequence, but it might go with the second one beam up, the third two beams back the other way or some other regular pattern. Break the pattern where planks are between fore and aft deck houses and the space is less than a normal length; use a single plank.
Some stain their planks before installing them, I’ve never done that but I’ve only done a couple. There are a LOT of planks.
Then starting at the centerline glue down one plank with it’s ends on your beam lines. If you can, add a few more in either direction until you come uo on your deckhouses, masts, or such. Now, start the next row by putting the next plank one beam offset from the first. Finish the row. Start the third row three beams back in the other direction from the first. What you want to do is be consistent with your steps to get a regular pattern, and not have one plank start at the midpoint of the one next to it.
Thats it. You’re a little behind the eightball around the edges as there isn’t an edge or waterway plank there, but slice them off with a razor blade to fit the curve of the hull and it’ll look fine,
The Scientific plans make no mention of monkey boards or railings. I thought I’d make my own. Looked at a few pictures on internet to try and get an idea of what they looked like. I cut a 1/16" strip from a sheet of basswood. I cut 1/4" width strip for the rails. Glued them down and used putty to fill in cracks/seams.
I drilled the hawse holes and glued in the metal rivets for the anchor chain. I add a fine rail up near the bow - again 1/16" square strip. Sanded and added some putty.
The plans called for using cut paper strips for pntles/gudgeons on rudder. I pickup a small sheet of brass from HobbyLobby and cut out some small strips. I bent them into an U-shape and then glued them to keel and rudder. I cut a small piece of wood from a toothpick and drilled holes into top of rudder and into hull to add stability to the rudder.
p.s. If you get a chance, check out GMorrison’s wonderful build in here on his America yacht! [:D[
I have finished my putty work, sanding and have primed the boat flat white. All rails are complete and rudder with brass pintles/gudgeons are in place. Will begin taping off for final piant on hull.
Someone was kind to mention that I needed to trim more off the stern to give her a sleek look. Shaved, sanded and puttied. Painted the lower hull with two coats of Testors Dark Red spray paint - I have 3-4 spots to touch up where paint ‘bled’ under my tape but that’s an easy fix. Once everything is dry, I’ll paint upper hull with Gloss Black, leaving a thin white line between my two colors. I’ll then buff to a glossy shine with 4000-12000 sanding pads.
Very nice work Robert! [Y]
Jim [cptn]
Jim - thanks for taking a look! I’m hoping to make some improvements on this basic wood kit as well as improvements in my wood working skills.
Got a chance to do some work on the hull this morning. Taped off and painted upper hull a Gloss Black. Put on a 2nd coat by midday. Removed the tape this evening and my white strip and black came out really clean. While she is drying this weekend, I started to work on the deck furnishings. I’ve started with the main cabin.
Looking great!
Thanks Don - I want to say thanks to you, and a few others, for helping me along. Enjoy the day!
I thought that she looked great when in the white primer. Now, with the colors, she looks REALLY great.
Jim [cptn]
Spent time today finishing up the rudder and pintles/gudgeons. Worked on the main cabin - added my cabin door with hinges, scuttle hatch and skylight. I used brass nail heads for my portholes and hit the center of them with a black marker.
Getting some more work done with the bowsprit. It called for only a Samson post, but I included the platform and bowsprit bits as well. I stained the rails and painted the tops of monkey rail flat white. Also started in on the foc’s’le companionway.
Slow work but my dories are coming along. I cut and stained floorboards and have started to cut out the seats.
Finally got a morning to get some work done on the boat. I finally have attached the Samson post/bowsprit bits (painted flat white); the club traveler wire (flat black); the formast fife rail (flat white/rust); the companionway hatch ( flat white/nuetral grey); the galley stack (flat black); and the dories in their cradles (cradles painted flat white/stained). I had a visit from our daughter and our 3 year old grandson. He helped me glue the seats in the dories and dipped my line into 50/50 mix water/white glue for the rope coils. I promoted the little fellow to 1st mate [Y]
Got a little more work done today. I added the the steering box and wheel, along with the grating behind the main cabin. I also added another galley stack to top of the main cabin. The fife rail for main mast is now in place.
The dories are lashed down to the cradles and have been glued to the deck. Forward scuttle is in place, as well as the grating in front of companionway hatch. Fashioned my windlass and is temporarily sitting in it’s place on deck. Next up will be cutting lengths of chain for the anchors.
I think your project is looking very, very nice indeed. I tip my hat to you and your first mate.[t$t]
Thanks so very much, Mike! There’s a few things that I need to tweek, like some trim on the steering box. I wish I hadn’t glued it in place but. My plans did not include things like the anchor chain box nor do they show the catheads to help hold the anchors to the rails. I’m hoping I can recreate these with my skill level. Our nephew was really interested in the model and he is still talking about helping me with it around his house and school back in California. [Y]