Best thickness

Modeling Subjects Scratchbuilding
1

I’m looking into doing a scratchbuild, but have never done one before and was wondering what would be the best thickness to use. The model I’m looking at doing is going to be about 3 feet long or so. Should I use something extra thick or just build a skeleton and use the thinner stuff. What is the most common thickness used by scratchbuilders? .020 seems to be most common to me.

Thanks,

Max

2

With something that big, I would not restrict myself to styrene. I would build the framework from basswood, with only skin and visible areas in styrene.

If you have never scratchbuilt before, I have a suggestion. Buy one of those large Guillows scale flying models, and instead of covering it with tissue, cover it with sheet styrene. Those have sufficiently strong framework you can sheath them with 0.020. For some internal detals in the cockpit and wheelwell areas, I would probably use thicker, say thirty mil stock.

Scratchbuilders frequently use a variety of materials, including wood and brass in addition to plastic. So consider these materials too.

3

Ummm … what are you building?

4

Thanks for the advice on that. The idea with the balsa model sounds like a good one and I may just try that out.

What am I building? The Satellite of Love from Mystery Science Theater 3000. I can’t believe that a kit of that thing doesn’t exist. Guess if I really want one, I’ll just have to build it myself, hence the post.

5

Foam core. Sheet styrene would be too thin. You are basically building four faceted spheres that have hexagons and pentagons for faces, like an old soccer ball. The thickness (3/16") will give you good gluing edges. And then, just like the old Star Wars cruisers and the 2001 space ships before, gizmology rules. Glue on all the techy looking stuff you can find. Lego would work for some of it. Coat hanger wire. Beer can material. If you go on a raid at In-n-out and Mickey D’s it’s fun to see what you can swipe, like coffee stirrers, straws, cup lids etc. Make the straight parts out of PVC plumbing pipe. Spray it all white and there you go.

It sounds like something that’s meaningful to you, so you’ll have fun I’m sure.

6

Thanks again for the suggestions. I had thought about doing the whole thing in some sort of foam first because it would be easier to carve and shape, but i really don’t know how to go about sticking that stuff together. And then how would you affix the plastic to the foam? I can’t imagine any solvent based glue would work. How would you do that?

And meaningful? Well I don’t know if that is the word I’d use, but I do loves me some MST3K and having my own SOL on display would be awesome.

7

Solvent based glues will melt polystyrene foam in a heartbeat. You can, however, use epoxy and PVA glues.

8

Actually, foam core is the sheet stuff you see at Michael’s or Aaron Bros. for mounting posters. it’s two layers of heavy cardstock with a layer of foam in between. It comes 30 x 42 in white and in black. You cut it with either a matt knife, an xacto or a single edged razor blade. It’s easy to glue with PVA, Gorilla glue or even hot glue. Architects use it to build models because at 1/2" scale the walls are the right thickness. It paints well, is pretty dimensionally stable and is strong. It’s not as good looking as a carefully built plastic or wood model, but it provides its own structure and it’s easy enough to glue stuff to.

9

Ah, I see. Well I am guessing I could use the foam core to build a skeleton first and then glue the actual plastic pieces to that. I can’t imagine that building the basic structure would be too tough as it is just the four “balls” and the two “shafts.” (Hmmmmmm… I’m not sure I like the way this is sounding.) But the hard part will be all the bits that have to go on. Luckily, there were a couple of versions of the ship, so I can just throw up what sticks until it looks good. Kitbashing in it’s purest form.

10

Here you go! About 80% of the way down.

http://mst3kinfo.com/mstfaq/bots.html

11

Also found this. It should make the hard part pretty easy!!

http://www.korthalsaltes.com/model.php?name_en=truncated%20icosahedron

Starting soon

12

Hi Don,

I must tell you, ever since 1965 I argued with friends about fabrick vs metal skin.

In fact, I tried to design a big glider, about 10 foot long and 16’ wide based on, ahem, the big 1 litre beer cans. I got snagged on on forming the wings, -then family issues happened-, but I still think you have a great idea.

I encourage modelers to sidestep traditional suppliers and go directly to plastics wholesalers. A sheet of 0.020 styrene as you suggest is a bargain at about US$40 or less a sheet.

I can’t take model airplanes out to fly anymore, but I’m working on a solid styrene aircraft, at least for the parts aluminum can’t conform to, and hope to fly it, or at least watch it sail into the side of a barn.

Hey, the vac thickness styrene is incredibly strong and light, and completely overlooked.

Thanks for your post,

Bockscar

13

go with .040" sheet styrene as will give you more strength in the pieces & panels. i built a 4’ tall 6 arm space station back in the late 70’s when i was in high school. balsawood frame work with .020" plastic styrene skin. the skin was just to thin but was all i could get at the time. my 144 scale warships use balsawood frame with .040" styrene & some of them are almost 30yrs old in good shape.

14

Another non-traditional material I use a lot is card stock. Use glossy stock- it takes paint easier. It is cheaper than styrene and bends and creases better. Especially good is old IBM punchcard stock. It has an excellent plastic coating so it primes and paints very well. It is easy to emboss for rivet detail, too.