said it before and I’ll say it again , so jealous of you yank’s with your choice of stuff , haven’t heard of half the gear you are talking about [:'(]
I agree with you regarding Tamiya rattle can paints. They produce a very fine mist which results in a nice paint finish. Much easier to control than Testors’ rattle cans.
Don’t you just love it when somebody starts a thread with a wacky question then sits back and laughs or just never checks back whilst we all talk to ourselves? Looks like I didn’t bite on this one, but I sure have on far too many of them over the years.
Peeve of mine here.
Ah well, it is a reasonable question, although the premise of “best” is very subjective compared to objective.
I will say that for acrylics, Humbrol is becoming my go to brand the more that I use them. Especially for hand brushing. One coat coverage, and dead flat finish. Their container is more convenient than those blasted dropper bottles. I’m just curious now as to their long term shelf life.
Any time a conversation about best paint starts I know it’s headed to the same dark corner I left my O.D. paint test in a few months ago. However, not to be a party pooper I started with everything Tamiya, then tried Humbrol and Vallejo. I like Vallejo paint for hand brushing and air brushing, but do not like the dropper bottles. I like Tamiya bottles and the paint too and still use Tamiya Surface Primer with Vallejo and Humbrol paint.
Recently I read an article about the ‘Best’ method for creating a smooth paint finish was starting with a smooth primer coat which makes sense. To get a smooth primer coat according to the article you need to spray a ‘Wet Coat’ and let it dry completely as a posed to several light coats like we do with finish paint. To accomplish a wet coat of primer without runs and loosing detail you need a large volume air brush, or a spray can like Tamiya offers for Fine Surface Primer. So far this method works on large surfaces like a Jeep body or tank hull, but for very detailed small parts my .35 mm needle air brush works better.
I know the “old guard” tends to favor enamels and laquers, back in the day they were superior and you folks have been working with them longer than some of us have been alive, so you’ll find a lot of love expressed for enamels. not without good reason though, they can look really darn nice.
I wouldn’t shake my fist too hard at acrylics though, they’ve improved over the years for hobby use, they’re convenient and more accessible for some, and I don’t think it’s fair to scoff and limit anyone’s ability to enjoy the hobby because they use acrylics 
I’ve used Testors and Tamiya spray cans. I like Tamiya’s spray cans a lot, especially their primers. My experience with Testors has been good so far, but more limited.
I haven’t airbrushed yet but I will be soon. I have a stock of Tamiya and Vallejo bottles, and the Badger primer to try out, so hopefully I’ll have a little more opinion to offer after.
Crimm, the only thing wrong with being young is the old guard can’t be young too. In a perfect world we could all be young and have lots of experience, but it doesn’t work like that. When you get around to buying an air brush take a look at Iwata Eclipse HP-CS.
https://www.iwata-airbrush.com/
They are not inexpensive, but you will not be disappointed either.
Harold
At the moment I have a Badger Renegade Krome, and a Paasche H1017 to use for primers and stuff. People keep mentioning the Eclipse though so if they ever go kaput or I royally screw them up while learning, I guess I know what to get next.
Crimm, believe me, acrylics do have their advantages. Especially the rapid drying times. And nowadays there are more brands of acrylics out there than easily counted. And it seems every few months that another paint line appears. But some appear to add more complexity to the equation than need be, add flow enhancer here, and retarder there. And what thins one brand quite well, turns another into rubbery goo.
Im not knocking acrylics per se, I use them and enamels. And I like both types of paints. There are just some brands that I have better experiences with than others. Working with both types has its advantages in some situations.
I’ve used tamiya and Vallej. Vallejo rubs off the model to me. There’s a different color from paint to paint on the two. germa gray is totally different from one another. Way different. I like tamiya but I may be doing something wrong with Vallejo
You might be, yes. First thought would be Vallejo needs a good primer underneath, and Vallejo primer does not work. I mean a real primer like Tamiya Surface primer, Badger Stylnylrez, Alclad Surface Primer, etc.
You are right! I can see how one might expect paint colors to match across manufactures, but they don’t and probably never will. You might want to lose that expectation right away! [:)]
Then again the dispute on which paint color brand is the most accurate over the others has always been hotly debated.
To reply to the original post- none of the ones I use. My paint jobs all look like crap.
For any vehicle that is ordinarily left outdoors (not hangered or garaged), the sun will change the color in a couple of weeks. So I only worry about color accuracy if I am depicting a new car, or a military subject on the day it is rolled out of factory.
However, since I love to weather, that means I don’t ordinarily worry about color accuracy on anything military. But that may change. Newer paints on military subjects are becoming much more resistant to UV.
And part of that goes back to knowing about your subject. USAF tactical Aircraft in Europe for the second half of the Cold War spent their time on the ground in hardened aircraft shelters, out of the weather. Conversely, their stateside cousins were in the open on the ramp in various climates.
As mentioned previously, the answer to this question is very subjective (which is why there are so many different paint manufacturers). What works well for one person may not for another due to multiple factors. From one who had used MM enamels since returning to the hobby, they are easy to work with and consistent in performance. However, the concerns with enamels for indoor applications are well documented and forced me to change my paint preference to acrylic (which has its own set of challenges).
Wow! I haven’t heard about Humbrol paints since I was in Europe. That’s been quite awhile. There was a time I painted my models with these same paints: Tamiya, Testors, Humbrol. When I was in Europe, I mostly painted with Humbrol paints. It was pretty good for me. Thank you for the reminder, now I will search for Humbrol paints online for purchase along with the other paints companies.
I have several Badgers including a Renegade all are good for life. About 3-4 years ago I sent in my Renegade cause it had a suspected internal crack. About 2 weeks later Badger sent me a brand new replacement one , free of charge. Can’t beat their customer service.
I’ve recently watched a rather useful and short video about it. They talk in detail about different types of paint for models https://youtu.be/z31AvzpoDZ4
I also can add that I really liked to use acrylic markers. As I am a multimedia artist, I always have A LOT of different supplies at home, so I tested many different mediums on my models. For example, I enjoyed using Artistro markers https://artistro.com/
It’s actually my favourity supplies to work with. They can be used to paint on completely different surfaces. I usually used them for painting on wood and stones.
Hope you’ll find good paints to use!
I use mostly Tamiya, decanted Tamiya spray paint, gunze aqueous, Mr color and polly scale. They all airbrush and brush fine with the right techniques.