What’s the best glue or cement to use when attaching canopies to the fuselage? One that won’t fog the canopy. All replies are deeply appreciated.
Over.
Usually use Microscale Micro Kristal Klear, which is a high quality white glue. Also have used Testors Clear Parts Cement with good results.
i use Elmer’s glue. It’s easy to remove when it dries and does’nt fog
ive always used the testors clear parts glue.
You could also try Humbrol Clearfix which seems to make a stronger bond than the Testor’s stufff, but it seems that Humbrol ceased production of it so it could be difficult to find.
I just use Future. The bond isn’t that strong, but as long as the canopy isn’t knocked around it works fine.
I’m like MusicCity. A combination of white glue mixed with Future. Or is it Future mixed with white glue? The bond is not super strong but if the part gets knocked off it is a very easy repair.
Has anyone ever tried using superglue or do people advise against it?
Superglue tends to cause the most fogging of anything I’ve ever tried.
Has anyone tried watch crystal cement?
I use Testors and am completely satisfied.
Randie [C):-)]
Weldbond white glue…dries crystal clear, is the strongest white glue i’ve ever fiddled around with…the Testors white glue works but, i don’t think it’s as strong as the Weldbond…and this stuff is great for filling in medium sized (1/200 & 1/144) spaces where windows belong…
good luck Trowbridge…
i been told that krystal clears good stuff
Ok, thanks for the answer.
I’ve always used Testors white glue for clear parts as well and have had good success with it.
I’ve never found anything that bonds canopies tighter without fogging than Micro Liquitape. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to find it lately. Is it out of production? It’s a fine product at a good price.
CA glue…It is perfect and creates a nice foggy look to simulate dust and vapour clouds…lol
OK OK white glue for me…Elmers or this short
You can, in fact, use CA. First, you have to coat the transparencies in several layers of Future, and let this cure. This is very important, because it forms a barrier between the CA and the clear plastic. You can now cement the clear parts in place with CA, and because the fumes can’t get at the plastic, they won’t fog.
This is especially useful with kits whose clear parts don’t fit well, such as the Monogram 1/48 Dornier 217, or the MPM Wellington, or where the clear parts are structural, such as the Monogram 1/32 Phantom Mustang, or any of the Tamiya ‘see-through’ models.
Chris
try using aleene’s quick dry tacky glue it’s great for windows and canopies it drys clear and it’s water sutable
I use white glue, krystal clear, and also acrylic cement but the one that is water based. It starts as a white medium, but it will turn completely tansparent when it cures, it is used as cement base for flock. It has de advantage that it will not debond -as white glue does-once it has cured, that is you can wet it and it will stay put. You can also try using acrylic gloss -or matt- mediun, the one produced by Woodland Scenic or any other brand you could buy in an arts and craft shop.
diluted elmers glue for me
Just like Chris Hall said.
I use CA to attach my clear parts as well.
All my clear parts get a coating of Pledge (Aussie Future), which prevents the CA vapours from getting to the plastic.
Good strong bond, and is invisible.