I for one never clean or wash model parts except resin ones. Vallejo apparently lifts as easy as MM acrylics. A solvent primer like Tamiya’s or Alclad’s will give the Vallejo some tooth into the surface helping to lessen the lifting effect. Tamiya acrylics adhere very well and speaking from experience, I have masked over Tamiya paint just a couple of hours after application with no paint lifting when removing the masking tape.
What is it with folks ordering simple dental picks through Amazon? You can find them cheaper at Walmart or drug store.
I live in the city, and so most stores are small near me and have a limited selection. I suppose could try multiple grocery stores, targets, etc. but it’s just easier for me to order via amazon. And often the prices are damn good too (especially with free prime delivery).
I’ve just started using Badger’s stynylrez, but my go to in the past was Tamiya’s spray can primer decanted and then airbrushed. Either that or Mr. Surfacer 1200 (I just got some of the 1500 too in black, but haven’t tried it yet). The Tamiya and Mr. Surfacer got really good primer adhesion, I felt. Not sure about the Badger stuff yet…
I’ve used x20 to thin the Tamiya paints at about 50:50. Also used IPA fir the same with good success. Tamils dried up real fast. Minutes between coats and masking. On my current build, I’m using the Vallejo Modea Air straight out if the bottle through a NEO running at around 18-20 psi. So long as I mix the holy bejeebers out if the MA it has sprayed pretty well on the small sections. I’m about to start the exterior camo pattern so we will see if that continues. To clean the brush I use Windex, water and then run a drop or 2 of Vallejo thinner through the brush. So far so good.
Stynylrez should be fine if you do it right. Most people who try it stick with it. I know I’m a convert after decades of solvent based paints.
Vallejo Model Air sprays fine without thinning, but as mentioned before, Vallejo’s Flow Improver will help eliminate dry tip. Most folks use a tiny bit of Vallejo Airbrush thinner too, myself included. Not sure why, really.
Just a suggestion, but you might want to try 20-25 psi. I know, that sounds high but it’s what Vallejo recommends and I’ve found it to be the best working pressure for Model Air. It’s only a few more PSI that you are already at, so it may make no difference at all.
Hey for those that ordered the tiny brush I suggested, I would love to hear some feedback after using it.
They work great, thanks. I had received an “airbrush cleaner kit” a while back, a real cheap set probably 10$. It’s got a number of larger brushes, as well as metal reamers of some sort. Long story short, it doesn’t work for modeling airbrushes (probably works for guys doing full-size cars…) and the dental picks work great. They get into the tip well but are also gentle enough so I don’t have to fear damaging the tip or nozzle. I definitely was able to pull out some goop using it. Plus, they’re cheap and reusable!
go to Habor Freight and get their AB cleaning brush set, they are a couple of bucks. They are great for brushing the AB body air and needle passages. They also clean side and bottom feed cup paint pipes.
This is an old thread but I thought I’d use it. I just experienced the same exact problem the OP had.
Let’s get this out of the way right from the get go. I shot Model Air using Vallejos thinner. So no, I did not use some sort of rogue concoction. The spray went ok I guess but I did notice some specs in the finish. Makes me wonder if the problem was in process at the start.
For a long time I have not been a fan of this paint for various reasons, but I was starting to accept it. Just when I thought, Ok, maybe I can live with some of the things I don’t like about it, it bites me in a new way. Nevermind the tip dry, or the slow dry time, or the poor adhesion. Now, I am gonna clean your clock and gum up your hardware.
When it was time to clean the brush I used lacquer. And what happened? The paint broke up into tiny globules. I always use lacquer and this time, the paint turned bad. I had a heck of a time cleaning the color cup and the brush. Just when I thought I got it clean, more junk came out. So irritated with Vallejo paint. The only reason I went with it on this job was because of color options and local availability.
So what do I clean the brush with? I hear people say do not use IPA, and no to windex, and no to pretty much whatever. Though people in this thread say lacquer works, I am hear to tell you, it turned my paint bad. Though, previous times it did not seem to be a problem. It’s’ a new bottle but maybe it’s old paint. Just spitballing.
Someone talk me off the ledge. Should I buy Vallejos AB cleaner? Does it work?
I watched a guy use steaming HOT water to clean Vallejo out. That sounds like a pain. What? I have to boil water every time I use Vallejo? Like I am gonna deliver a baby? Seems appropriate but quite ridiculous.
Sigh.
Hey Bakster,
I tried Vallejo Model Air once and that was all it took…I moved on for all the same reasons you didn’t like it. I think I remember using pure ammonia at the time to clean my airbrush parts of it. The only reason I even had the ammonia was because of my brief, dubious flirtation with the Model Master Acryl paints, which were also an unmitigated disaster. These days I am using Walmart’s generic glass cleaner (also does a better job cleaning glass than Windex) to clean my airbrush on the rare occasions I use acrylic paint (I think Gauzy Agent Shine Enhancer is the only acrylic product I use now). I know that some people say that Windex can damage the chrome plating on your airbrush parts, but as rarely as I use it, it hasn’t been a problem. If your Paasche H is still your go-to airbrush, I also highly recommend an ultrasonic cleaner. I use old relish jars to keep my cleaning fluids in (Glass cleaner for acrylics, and MEK for everything else) because they’re the perfect size to fit into the ultrasonic cleaner’s tub. I use the jars so the nasty chemicals can be in a sealed container while the cleaning process runs and I don’t have to deal with the fumes. Just drop your color cup, needle, and air cap into the jar, jar into the cleaner tub, and then add enough water to fill the empty space in the cleaner tub…that will help evenly transmit the sound waves into the jar. Let it run for about 30 minutes and you’ll have squeaky-clean airbrush parts. At that point you can just run the cleaned parts under hot water in the sink to rinse them off. Sounds complicated, I know, but its actually a really quick process that will also help you focus more on just enjoying the experience of airbrushing things without all the brain damage of trying to get things to work. If your airbrush parts are particularly gummed up, there’s a possibility you may have to run them in the cleaner a second time, but the first time usually gets it done…the key is the minimum 30 minute cleaning time. Any shorter than that and the results aren’t as good.
I don’t use Model Air,but I use plenty of Model Color,it cleans nicely with Madea Air Brush Cleaner.
Hey Eaglecash, thanks for posting and confirming I am not imagining this. I laughed about the Model Master Acryl. That is so dang true. Also, I had tossed around the idea of an ultrsonc cleaner before, you have just moved the idea to the front burner.
Yes! I am still using the Paasche but since I got the quick disconnects, I am switching back and forth. I tell ya… I wish I had gotten the disconnects sooner. In the past, I didn’t change brushes just because it was a pain. Now, wham-bam, I am switching things out on the fly.
The ultrasonic cleaner should be ok too with other brushes correct?
BTW. You may have seen me comment on MRP paint elsewhere, but just letting you know, your recommendation was spot on. The paint performs flawlessly straight from the bottle. Now… if they would just expand their color offering. I guess if there one thing Vallejo does well it is their broad range of color offerings. Just too bad the product does not perform well.
If I was a rich dude… I would buy the rights to the MRP line of paint and then expand the color offering. Then… I would expand distribution putting the product in the mainstream. Why would it sell? Why would it stand out? Why? Why is because it works! It would sell itself. The paint would be the go to product most modelers would reach for. MRP is missing an opportunity to take over the market.
Back to Vallejo. I will go purchase their AB cleaner and see if just maybe… they got that right.
Thanks again.
Hey Tojo, thanks for commenting, and that is very interesting. So, you are airbrushing using their non AB formulated paint? What are you thinning the paint with? The Vallejo thinner?
It will be OK with the other airbrushes, but a small ultrasonic cleaner like the one I have probably wouldn’t be large enough for the parts to get fully submerged. But, I don’t think they even make them that small anymore so you should be good.
As far as MRPs color selection goes, they have almost every color that I use in my modeling. Tamiya and Model Master Enamels handle the rest, and I’m also kinda liking the Gunze Lacquers for some of the cool colors they have. Also rediscovered the little Testors square bottles recently. They’re really awesome for detail painting over the top of MRP because the MRP is completely unharmed by paint thinner, so if I slip with the brush, I can just wait for the paint to dry and then precisely erase the mistakes with a thinner-dampened swab. It doesn’t even touch the MRP paint underneath. Thinking about using those properties to my advantage the next time I paint and detail an instrument panel that I can’t get a Quinta set for.
It will be OK with the other airbrushes, but a small ultrasonic cleaner like the one I have probably wouldn’t be large enough for the parts to get fully submerged. But, I don’t think they even make them that small anymore so you should be good.
Okay thanks!
Yes,I use their thinner,along with their Flow Improver.Im not married to the stuff,but they did have colors that I needed at the time and I have gotten comfortable in using them with good results.
Ok thanks, Tojo. I have some of both so i will test it.
Thanks again for your input.