Okay, this is the first time anyone (apart from RedKnight38) has seen any of my “finished” models (well, they’re never really finished, are they?)… [8)] It’s not all that great but there’s a lot i could learn from this one. This is a 1/72nd scale academy B-17F named “Miss Quachita”. It’s strictly out of the box work.
I’m not too happy about the details like the cockpit or the .50 cal. guns. Also, i can’t seem to get the division between the colors straight (between the olive drab and the grey. I don’t have an air brush so i painted it by hand). Also her seams are showing, especially between the canopy glass and the fusalage, running down the length of the fusalage and at the wing roots. Lastly, does anyone know an easier way to paint the canopy by brush without using fancy knick-knacks like bare metal foil (can’t get my hands on the stuff!)?
Here she is:
Any suggestions? Comments are very welcome as long as you are gentle. [:I] [:p]
Well, it does not look as bad as you think, Shrikes… You have the (dis)advantadge of having built the model so you knw where things could have been better done, where the little mistakes are, but to us and anybody looking at your model ‘in the flesh’, most of those little mistakes will not be apparent. Don’t be too hard on yourself. Your next model will be better, for sure, but all the same, it’s a pretty good model you’ve got there already! Keep up the good work.
Man, I wish my brush painting looked that good! I agree with Domi: You know where the improvements need to take place, but it looks to me like you have a lot of the basics down pretty well! Keep up the good work!
Gip Winecoff
I agree with DJ, it’s not that bad. Getting an airbrush would probably be a big help, hey, Christmas is right around the corner - maybe you should ask Santa for one?
Shrikes,
either you are too harsh a critic, or you know how to take a flattering picture!! [:)]
i am afraid to attempt 1/72, so i would not dare criticize.
i cannot recommend any masking technique for brush painting, as i do mine w/ the airbrush. sorry.
the B-17 looks good.
keep building. soon you will be as happy w/ your work as we are.
I agree with the others. It looks good to me.
Building models is a learning process. Things that disappointed you about about a particular build are improved (usually) in the next one.
The day I quit modelling will be the day that my build turns out “perfectly.” There won’t be anything left to learn. I hope I NEVER make a flawless model !
It seems as though the others have misinterpreted your request for help. To help hide, or prevent, seams, I use Tenax 7R on the fuselage joints & wing-half joints. When used as indicated on the bottle, you’ll get a raised bead of melted plastic along the seam that is very easily sanded off, leaving NO SEAM!! I understand that are other adhesives and techniques with which to accomplish this, but this is what I use. Your picture doesn’t readily show the mistakes that you are asking about, so maybe that’s why you’re not getting the responses that you’re looking for. The picture really does look great, by the way!!
As far as the wing root joint goes, once you have made sure that you have a STRONG bond for that joint, apply some putty (I use Squadron Green Putty, but I understand that other brands will work also) to the joint, and, after about 60 -120 seconds, wipe away the excess with a Q-Tip soaked in either alcohol or nail-polish remover (I’ve used both with no problems). You SHOULD wind up with a seam filled with with a very smooth application of putty that doesn’t need any sanding. I forgot to mention that applying tape along either side of the joint before you apply the putty will help to keep unwanted excess putty from getting to other areas.
To mask a canopy, regular old masking tape will do the trick. Just cut some very narrow strips of it from your roll, then carefully apply the tape to the areas that you want no paint to touch. This technique is VERY time-consuming compared to using Bare-Metal Foil, but it works just as well. Just make sure that you hold your masked canopy near a light to make sure that it’s correctly covered before you paint.
To get a good demarcation line between the upper and lower paint colors, you really do need an airbrush. I’m sure that it can be done with hand-brushing, but I could never accomplish it. Maybe someone else out there in modeling land can help with this item??
Anyway, I hope that this information has helped you out some. Good luck in your modeling endeavors!!
Thanks for the feedback, fellas. I suppose i souldn’t be too harsh on myself (maybe i’m a perfectionist and don’t know it! either that or a really bad photographer! [:D]). I’ve tried putty before, but never with much success (probably because i didn’t know about the tape, and the q-tip dipped in alcohol. Swanny’s website was a big help on that one. Thanks, Swanny!!). The putty i currently have is the Italerri putty that comes in the tube. with this work just as well? there seem to be bits of dried putty mixed in. is this normal or has my putty dried out? Won’t the paint work its way under the masking tape? I really need some of that bare metal foil. everyone in the forum swears by the stuff!! Any Filipino modelers know where i can get it here in manila???
On a side note, i just saw today that one of the edges of one of the decal has chipped off! And i used all of that Testor’s decal set stuff, too! is there a better brand for this decal setting solution?
[sigh] I really need an airbrush… It’ll be like learning how to paint all over again, what with maintenance, mixing the paint and the proper way to get an even coat and all…
Lots of questions, but i have one more: I’m currently working on a PBY5 Catalina and i just sprayed a coat of silver on it in the hopes of chipping away the upper coat of paint to make it look weathered. what’s the best way to go about this (ei sandpaper, hobby knife, some kind of solvent?) should i be using one acrylic and one enamel or can i get away with using all one kind of paint?
You might try the Tamiya (or any other) spray cans.
They are very handy for covering large areas with a single colour, with careful masking you can apply more than one colour.
I use them for big projects like my current one, a 1/32nd F4J and I have been more than impressed with the results.
You have to be careful and spray very fine layers of paint but I was happy with the results in the end.
I used my airbrush for touch up work.
Shrikes,
on keeping the paint from getting under the tape:
try to burnish (rub) the edges of the tape w/ a flat tipped toothpick
or the round end of a paintbrush handle so it gets a good seal.
and don’t thin the paint too much (or at all).
i use Tamiya brand tape. it is a bit expensive, but a roll goes a LONG way, and it is worth every penny!
great product.
on the topic of liquid cements, i prefer the Ambroid product to the Tenax.
it is not as quick acting and gives me a bit more time to fiddle when needed.
That’s a good-lookin’ B-17, Shrike!
Gary and the folks have posted some good advice here. As far as brush-painting canopy frames, you could just paint 'em freehand (no masking) with a fine brush, if you have steady hands and can paint straight lines. I did that with the old Monogram 1/48 B-29 decades ago, and looking at it now, that canopy was one of the best-looking parts of the kit!
Good luck with future builds, Shrike.
Looking forward to more pix!
Im kinda new for the modeling…So this is a newbie [:I]
Get a airbrush, if you can… Lot of patience. I messed up in the early days…So be patiance. You’ll be happy!! really happy.
Future! Awsome stuff.
Canopy…Ugg… Patience is the key.
Learn how to do a putty job. I did not know to use it. I used to do the whole tube. But know I dont do that. Swanny told me to that…His site by the way.
Use the Tri-sanding stick(squandron). Great for a root wing. Awsome stuff.
PATIENCE. I have a problem for that…
Learn how to do the scribe the models. I’m “Luftwaffe freak” ,so I had to learn quick. You know the Bf 109 has a lot or scribing and the canopy too…eekk[:p]
You’ve been given some good advice here the only thing left for me to add is don’t be so hard on yourself![;)] I really like your B-17 and think you did a really good job[^]
Hey Shrikes! Checked JMN’s Hobby Shop in Harrison Plaza last night, there is still one Bare Metal Foil and I reserved it for you until Sunday (ll/23/03).Hope you get this message in time.
Your B-17 looks good. No reason to feel bad. This is a hobby and this is suppose to give you enjoyment. No problem with handpainting, most of my WWII aircrafts were handpainted. I have also an unbuilt Academy B-17F named Fort Alamo. Thanks to your photo I know now how the Academy kit will look assembled. Enjoy your modeling.
Hi Shrikes, i agree with the others, you are a little harsh on your self. that is a nice looking B17 there. i have still got a B17g that was ootb that i built years ago and compared to your model mine is scrap (with a silent “s” LOL) the tips that you already have been given should help you loads though. BTW your hand painting is great, when you have masked the edges of your canopy with the tape as mentioned by Gary D, it may quicker for you to fill the space left to mask with pva glue. this stuff just peels off when the paint is dry and leaves a nice clean canopy. hope this helps. Greg
Looks fine to me, Shrikes. Nice job with the B-17.
As has been said, you might want to try some Tamiya masking tape. Tack is good but will not (usually) peel off paint. Try applying whole strips of the tape to the windscreen, burnish the edges of the canopy will a pointed tool, then cut off tape over areas to be painted using an X-acto knife. Good luck!
Shrikes - I agree with the rest of the guys, you do good work and more importantly, want to improve your work - Couple of suggestions, I use white glue as a filler around my canopies - put it on, wipe off the excess with a dampened q-tip and let it dry. Then I touch it up with a fine tipped brush (glue dries glossy) - another way to do canopy frames is to get some decal material (preferably clear or white), paint it the color you want the frames (brush works fine here too) - let the paint dry for 24 hrs and then cut the decal into strips the same width as the canopy frames and apply to model Good luck
Q
