Badger 350

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Painting and airbrushing
1

Hi everyone.
I just joined. This is my first posting.

I am still at the beginning stages of the hobby, and I am considering airbrushing. I looked at the Badger 350, the Paasche H, and the Aztec A320. I don’t know what are the upsides and down sides to each of these airbrushes. All I know is that the Badger 350 and the Paasche H look pretty similar. Any one have any pointers?

Greatly appreciate your help.

2

Hello - I’ve used a 350 for the past 20 years and it’s well worth the modest investment. Check Bearair or Dixie Art for great prices. The only problem I’ve encountered is that the “O” ring in the needle doesn’t like lacquers and will swell then disintegrate from them. Otherwise, it’s easy to strip and clean and handles most tasks with ease. You’re right in that the 350 and the H look similar as does the Binks Wren, IIRC. Buy some extra “O” rings and you’re off and running.

3

Awsome!!
since I mostly work with acrylics, I guess the O ring isn’t that much of a problem for me.
By the way, which of the 3 tips of the 350 is the best for acrylics?

thanksalot!!

4

Well, I’ve got all three needle assemblies for the 350 and never saw the need for anything other than the medium tip. The fine tip gave finer lines (no surprise there!) but I felt I needed more control and bought a Badger Crecendo for finer work. Still, the 350 gets more use as I typically paint USN camo (greys and whites), autos and one-or-two-color armor schemes - no German WWII “ambush” schemes or Luftwaffe ‘squiggle’ camo yet.
As you’ll be using acrylics, you’re ahead of the game as o-rings go. You should see a long life for that airbrush. I bought mine in 1984 and have had no real problems with it. Just make sure you thin the paint well and be concious of build-up at the needle tip. I keep a wet Q-Tip handy to clear off any blob of paint that may form. FYI, I’ve found Tamiya acrylics tend to build up less than other brands…
Hope this helps.

5

Thanks a bunch.

What do you use for the airsource? would an old spare tire be adequate for an air source?

6

Soz to but in, but you can use a spare tire for an airsource, I wouldnt advise it personally, mainly due to the thin white powder that may be present inside.

Best to get yourself either a tank of compressed air, kinda like what scuba divers use.
They usually come with a regulator attached and can be hired from gas suppliers and the like. Depending on how much modelling you do, can last many months.

Or purchase a dedicated compressor. I was lucky, got mine for a christmas present (it pays too nag for a whole year sometimes)

I also made an airtank out of an old fire extinguisher, costy only $50.

7

You sure can use a tire but I think you’d tire of it soon - I don’t think it’ll hold all that much air and humping the tire in and out of the house to get refill can get old fast. You might want to try a bonafide airtank like they sell at Wal-Mart or somesuch outlet. You can get it filled at a service station, it’s easier to carry than a tire and is purpose-built to carry compressed air.

Personally, I use CO2 from a converted CO2 fire extinguisher, another cylinder from my brother’s ill-fated attempt to make beer at home and a 20 lb. cylinder I found(!). I’ve been using CO2 for about six years now and have enjoyed it as it’s quiet, I have backups, it’s long lasting and easy to get refills.

8

Depends on how poor you are.[:(]. I had to use a tire for the first few years of airbrushing. Worked much better than canned air. Had to roll the thing half a mile to the nearest gas station too. It’s adequate but you can’t really control the air pressure coming out of it. Think of using your airbrush like rattle cans.

9

My choice would be the Pasche H.

10

Any particular reason for prefering the Paasche H?
(I am a newbie to airbrushing, and I need all the information and help I can get.)

Thanks!

11

I am planning on getting one of those 5-gallon air tanks for airbrushing. I will add a pressure regulator to control the airflow.

I’ve 2 questions:

  1. Are all the threads on the fittings of airbrushes, air tanks, etc. universal[?] Or do I
    have to purchase adapters[?]
  2. Is a moisture trap really all that important[?] How long does the air have to flow
    before moisture becomes a problem[?]

Like I said, any help or information will be greatly appreciated.[^]

12

A quick question on the 350. I got my dad’s old 350 with his compressor. It is about 20 years old. I cleaned the whole thing out and it sprays very well. One problem I am having thought is that the air flow will stop even though the compressor is going and I am holding the button down. If I let go and wait a few seconds it will start again, but will cut off again. I haven’t tried it with paint yet and want to correct this problem before I do. Thanks for the help.

13

Hey dnatech,

what you described sounds weird. Since I am likely to get the 350, I’d like to know the answer to this question too. Maybe one of the experts here can answer this question![:)]

14

I like the feel of the Paasche H much better with the metal body. You might want to try both of them out to get a feel.

15

Wonder if there is some damage to any of the seals. Try completely disassembling the airbrush leaving all the parts off (just body, trigger and air hose) and then shoot air. See if this problem goes away. Then repeat slowly attaching a part. You can find out the defective part when you get to the point when the problem begins, or maybe it will go away after to reassemble the whole thing. Just an idea on troubleshooting this.

16

Hung thanks for the tips. I will try that. I am wondering if the spring in the air valve is broken,. The other thing that came to mind is maybe it is the hose. I am using the rubber hose, not the braided hose. Could it be that the hose is colapsing or something and cutting off the air flow? I will try you steps as well.
Steve