Badger 200 bottle falling

The press fit of the bottle adapter into the airbrush body doesn’t seem to hold. I have tried gluing it in place (didn’t work), then polishing glue off and cleaning/polishing the nub, but it still drops off. I also tried punching tiny burr on the numb with a sharp point. Didn’t work either- filed that off and repolished. It often stays in place long enough for an airbrush session, but does drop once in awhile. It even falls off when the brush is sitting in its bracket if I bump that area of my workbench.

Anyone got a good idea on how to keep it in place?

Is there a rubber seal in the a/b body? It may be tired.

Don, I had the same problem years ago with the first 200 that I owned (and which was in fact the first ‘real’ AB I ever had). I ended up roughening the end of the nozzle with emery cloth, which did the trick. (I was afraid removing the nickel plating would encourage corrosion, but it was never really a problem.)

The ‘glue’ idea didn’t occur to me, but it isn’t a bad one; you didn’t say which one you used…but would something like clear silicone work any better?

Push in and twist at the same time ( not too hard or you’ll never get it out). I do that with my 200 and also Paasche H, especially with the side color cup…

Just a thought, Don. How old is your 200? I know you use it a lot. The spout on the bottles is tapered. It is a jam fit in the body of the brush. If the opening in the body is worn enough that it slips past that taper, you will never get a tight join. The brush body is brass, the spout is steel.

If that is the case, you could replace the body for less than $35. Here is a source.

Don

Spray Gunner has the full body and fine needle set for $40.

If my Badger 200 croaked out I’d probably get a Badger 150, same same but double action. Or maybe a 100 if I wanted gravity feed and use my old needle sets.

Meanwhile try some bees wax on the jar cap spigot and put it back on the body that way. That’s what we do with fly rod furrels.

I use a Badger 200 and the cup falls out at inopportune moments as well! It’s just an wear/age thing. Actually, when I used to use the jar, it used to fall out when I least expected it to. I switched to the cup because I am lazy; it is only one thing to clean versus the jar, lid, and siphon tube.

I tried the sandpaper roughing- didn’t work for me. I used CA cement. Worked for awhile but came loose again. Maybe I should try silicone- worth a try.

There is no rubber seal, the hole and the stem are slightly tapered. Somehow the machining is not quite a perfect match, or the chrome plating destroys the perfection of the fit.

Its not that old. I replaced my forty year old version with a new brush. I liked the old one better in a way- the bottle adapter was permanently affixed.

Okay Ya’ll ;

I learned this from a real Live Steam Model railRoader. Take the Fitting, and the Bottle connection . Put some rubbing compound ( Coarse ) on the surface and rub them together until grey metallic bits or foam comes out .Remove parts and clean thoroughly .What you have done there is machine a new surface between the two parts .This does work for some sooo . T.B.

I was thinking of doing that. I fear, however, getting rubbing compound into the guts of the airbrush. I will give it a try, being very careful.

This thread is funny, because a couple of months ago I took my 200 out of the drawer and used it for the first time in years. It was doing a pretty good job, and I wondered why I hadn’t used it more often. Then the colour cup fell out, and I remembered.