This is Revell’s 1/32 “Baa Baa Black Sheep” Corsair from many years back. I built this one a couple of years ago but chose to put it up as my first ever aeroplane posting.
As has been pointed out many times in reference to this particular kit, the markings on it that were included with the kit represent an aeroplane that toured America for war bond drive purposes and not what Boyington actually flew.
The kit was upgraded with the resin cockpit set from TrueDetails USA that is worth every penny of the $15,00 or so dollars it costs as the kit offering is woefully bad by the standards we are used to seeing from more modern kits.
For the colors, I rattle canned Testor’s Flat White on the bottom, and hand brushed both the ModelMaster Intermediate Blue on the side and outer lower wing, and the Testor’s Dark Sea Blue over the top. The “blending” was done by tapping a Testor’s 1x6 brush. The cockpit and inner areas are painted with Testor’s Yellow Chromate.
The aerial wire is a fantastic product called Wonder Wire that you have probably read about in some of the FSM kit reviews. It is a 6 mil ceramic fiber that keeps a perfect straight shape and, in my opinion, the greatest product EVER for aerial wire.
The pilot is Ultra Cast’s resin 1/32 WWII Naval Aviator figure. I wish I could have done him justice as it was one fine piece of work but my idea of figures painting as far as skin goes is to hit it with Testor’s Light Tan and call it done.
Any way, like I said, this is my first ever photographic contribution to the aircraft forum. Thank you for looking.
Sweet corsair, I hope to have mine turn out as something as good as that. I’m attempting to build Tamiyas 1/48 F4U-1D corsair. I say attempt because I havent completed an aircraft yet so my main concern is to atleast complete an airplane.
I’ve built that Tamiya kit. It goes together so easy you will surely have your first completion.
‘Hans von Hammer’,
I’ve tried the Dullcoat approach on another kit after it took a tumble, therfore sacrificing itself to become a “test mule” and it ended up dulling proportionally so while the decals did lose a little bit of their sheen, they were still glossier than the surrounding paint.
I know that I am eventually going to have to go the “paint it glossy, decal it, then Dullcoat it” route. Perhaps I should just buy a cheapo kit from HL with a 40% coupon and give it a try as I don’t want to risk one of my better kits on a “first try”.
You might want to try Parafilm. I’m working with it now for the first time, and it works pretty well. MicroMark sells it, as do medical supply houses (it was developed for sealing test tubes, without using adhesives). You can apply it over a canopy and cut along the framing with a sharp knife blade.
Has anyone tried frisket film? I’ve seen it @ my local HL, but haven’t bought any yet - seems a little pricey, not sure if it makes a good masking medium…
Then just give it a second coat… Careful though, it CAN orange-peel and wrinkle enamel & decals if it’s applied too heavily… I usually spray two or three light coats of the stuff…
It’s those thoughts of harming the finish and decals that makes me so apprehensive. I’ve got so many models on the shelf that have the “shiny” decals that I guess I’m just used to it and willing to see it rather than take the chance of ruining one.
I think I will end up getting a cheapie kit from HL (and 40% bomb it of course) to practice on.
Best way to test Dullcoat’s (or any clear flat) reaction to your kit’s decals is to put a couple of the extras (even the decal’s label strip will do) on your “hangar queen” (or any styrene surface you’ve prepped & painted with the SAME method you used on the model), let them dry same as you would the kit’s, and shoot that piece…
Also, keep in mind that you can use acrylic clear finishes as well… I use Tree House Studios Clear Flat & Gloss Acrylics in rattle-cans as well as Testor’s… These won’t attack your finishes… However, the flat acrylic has a tendency to go a bit towards satin unless you REALLY shake the bejeezus out of it…
