Here are some progress pics of a 1/48 Nakajima B6N Tenzan (codename “Jill”) that I’m building on comission, using Eduard’s photoetch detail set and Squadron’s vac canopy.
I got the airframe painted today, using Aeromaster Warbird acrylics (which are no longer made). I used Nakajima Navy Green and Nakajima Navy Gray. The prop is Red-Brown Primer.
The metallics are Alcad. The wheels are just painted, they haven’t been washed or drybrushed yet. The guns have Eduard PE sights, and the torpedo has PE fins and props. The frame for the ventral gun turret are also PE. There are also PE items on the main gear and tailwheel.
I tried something different on the cowling. I painted it flat black, then glossed it with Future. I then oversprayed it with a mix of clear blue and Future for the cowl blue-black color. It’s more effective “in person” than it is in the pics.
The leading edge ID bands have been painted white in preparation for the yellow. I’ll have that done Sunday.
The wheel wells, along with the interiors of the gear doors and flaps, will be done last using my own “Aotake.” I paint them with a reflective metallic, then overcoat with a mix of clear blue and Future. It looks better to me than the out-of-bottle colors available. Some touchup with NN Gray is needed at the nose (a bit of the green ran). That’s one of the things I dislike about all acrylics except Gunze. The paint dries on the tip, then all of a sudden you get this “blast” of paint when the tip unclogs itself. Grrr ! [}:)] I don’t like acrylics (except Gunze) !
Thanks for letting me share the progress with you !
I used to have that problem too. Avoided acrylics with a passion . Someone turned me on to a transparent extender that has made me feel comfortable spraying acrylics. My AB does not clog and no thinning is necessary since the extender is like water anyways.
Looks excellant (as always) - look forward to seeing the finished piece.
that looks fantastic as always. I’ve got the B5N2 as my next kit but won’t be able to start it for another three weeks at least b/c I’m in the process of moving.
Here’s another tip for airbrushing acrylics: put some Rain-X on the needle and tip. You can get Rain-X in the automotive department of most stores- it’s a silicone coating for the windows of your car that allows water to roll right off- and it works for paint on airbrush tips, too. BTW, that’s a mighty fine job on that bomber!
Thank you Lee, HastyP, wibhi, Rick, Matthew, Brian, chukw, and Joe !
wibhi - I added a couple drops of Future to the paint after I cleaned the needle and tip. It slows the drying time, and helps the paint flow a little better. I wish this color was available in enamel (it’s more blue than the generic IJN Green, which is closest to Mitsubishi Navy Green).
Matthew - to get the correct Nakajima cockpit color, use Hasegawa’s mixing info for Gunze paints. It’s very close to the real color.
I feel the same way about acrylics. The only time I use it is to paint faces on figures because of the fast drying aspect. Other than that it just sits and waits until I get in the mood for diorama time. Very nice start your Tenzan. That’s gonna be a be a beauty when you finish. Cheers. [4:-)]
First off, very nice work Pix. Typical quality for you. Thumbs up all the way! [tup][tup]
An interesting side discussion on acrylics, too. I like acrylics, all except for the part you mentioned. There’s some great tips here I need to jot down. Thanks!
Wow. You sure know your way around an airplane. Excellent work. i’m sitting here looking at the nose portion on my latest project and i think i want to burn it lol.
Hey Pix, I have a follow up question in reference to your “aotake” process. So you lay down some sort of metallic and then mix clear blue with future and overspray? What is the clear blue to future ratio? I saw this result on the B6N on your website and it looks great. It looks like something I might be able to handle if the bug bit me. Thanks again. P.S. anyone use liquitex flow aid for the acrylics?
Thanks Bossman (is there an echo in here?), Tugcap, Lucien, RadMax, ygmodeler, Matthew, and Bryan !
Matthew - I mix the clear blue and Future about 50 : 50. Adding the Future lets you build the color more slowly. This results in more even coverage. I use Gunze clear blue, and I thin it with Isopropyl alcohol. For the metallic, use one with very fine metallic “flakes.” If you don’t have Alcad aluminum (prime with Future), try Model Master chrome silver. It’s very shiny, and doesn’t have the big flakes of most metallic paints.
Here it is on the last “jill” I built:
