i am about to embark on a 1/48 B29. i am unsure if i will try alclad or other metal paint, so as i use MM enamel’s what would be the closest to the correct colour? i have done a kit in aluminium but it seems a bit dull but the chrome silver looks good but is it too bright?
A couple of years I did a 1/48th scale B-29 with Alclad II aluminum as the basic overall paint and then various panels with polished aluminum and chrome. I can’t tell you exactly which panels I painted and with which paint as I donated the finished project to a Veterans Home down in FL. But I scoured the 'net and came up with a number of good pics to use for reference. What I like about Alclad is that once dry it is easy to mask and no paint comes up when the masking is removed. Hope this helps…
Dick McC
Well, you probably know what my recommendation would be [:-^] but let me share a few images of an exquiste B-29 set to me by a customer.
This diorama was masterful in execution.
Keep in mind that if you use MM metalizers, and overcoat with a glosscoat or metalizer sealer, the overcoat will ‘knock down’ the brilliance of the original paint. I discovered this on an old F-86 that I painted with MM Aluminum. I was very disappointed in the results after the glosscoat, which is recommended to be used over metalizers.
Alclad on the other hand, leaves a brilliant shine, and needs no overcoat, and as stated above, works well with decals afterward. If you are willing to do the prep work for Alclad finishes (i.e. a well done base coat of gloss black) you will be very happy with the results. Hope this helps.
For what it’s worth, here’s a link to that very short thread on my F-86 (no pics in thread).
/forums/71755/ShowPost.aspx
Hope this helps,
stinger
“Embark” is the right word for the 1/48 B-29!
I say try Geralds’ (Hawkeye Hobbies) line of “Talon” brand acrylics, mostly because they get good reviews and they aren’t stinky with volatile solvents. I think they might appeal to the new breed of modeler for that reason. I haven’t tried them myself, but if he and guys like Ross Martinek like them, then there is somethingt there.
Another that is worth looking at besides the Alclads are the SnJ metallics, which Gerald also carries. The SnJ paints and their accompanying metal buffing powder have been a standard for years. Gerald wont hold it against me if I have to say this next part, either:
I’ve used the Floquil line of metallic paints and they work well. They are found in the railroad section of hobby shops. I will continue to use the Floquils for my next NMF project because they are what I am familiar with and I have several different bottles of them! If I were going to switch up, it would be to the Talon brand.
The SnJ and Floquil paints are solvent based like the Alclads. This gives them a “bite” to the plastic. There is always some worry about the acrylic metallics coming loose in masking without that solvent “bite” (although Gerald says his Talons won’t do this, if allowed to cure). And there has always been talk of the MM offerings being fragile in this regard too. May I suggest you get some latex or clean cotton gloves to handle the model? It seems a bit fussy, I know, but it minimizes the risk of damaging the metallic paint finish.
But no matter what you use, there is one cardinal rule of NMF’s that cannot be said enough:
“A finely prepared surface finish is paramount to good results.”
This means no blemishes, boogers, scratches, “dust bunnies,” etc. This also means you must polish the surface BEFORE application. Nothing will show mistakes and spoil an otherwise nice NMF job like a poorly prepped surface. As in all painting applications, whether on a model or at home in the kichen, stellar end results are the result of diligent prep work beforehand. In my 1/72 C-47 WIP thrad I mention how I achieve a shiny, smooth finish. You may find it useful:
Rubbin’ and Scrubbin’
Aw look, now I went and rambled again! I hope I didnt tick anyone off this time and that this was useful,. Thanks for reading this far. The B-29 looks great, Gerald.
I have used the SNJ and the Talon series metallics, and love them both! I have found that spraying the talon in light coats, followed by a rub-down with SNJ aluminum powder about 30 minutes later gives me a fantastic and tough finish. A couple hours later a coat of Future and I have a beautiful NMF that is extremely tough! Great paints you have there Gerald, highly recommended! [tup]
, I agree!..Harv
trexx takes notes…
Great information folks! Thank you. [:)]
Well thanks guys. i think the SNJ is the way to go. i went to Hawkeye’s website and read about it. if it is as easy as it reads thats me for a first timer with NMF