I prime both ways. On trains I brush it. On everything else I airbrush it. I got a new airbrush, so I am in Modelers heaven again. My landlady’s daughter gave me a portable spray booth for christmas and Uncle Sam gave me the new A.B. and Compressor when I got that special check!
Aleen’s does make the clear Glue too. I just discovered that on my last trip to H.L. I will try it and let everyone know what it works like.
I take Aleens and capture the part in the right place, Then Using capillary action I use Bob Smith Medium C.A. to fasten the P.E. Permanently.
ok, so as mentioned new to me all this PE. Question - i want to attach some railing and noticed the blocks im guessing are suppose to support the stanchions??? The little squares i have the red lines to - dont know the correct term. Should i try to allign the stanchions to go on top of the blocks or towards the inside of them? Im thinking inside of and on the deck as i noticed there is no blocking at the bow and to do the wrap of the rail w/ no blocking there might look funny off the deck…
Those are supposed to be open chocks. I’d show you one but right now I can only use my iPhone here.
those ugly things are not accurate. They would be more like a U open at the top, and much smaller. They would be where a stanchion is not, and the lifelines would go over them.
If you can get the spacing to work you could cut out the bottom bar where you need to, and probably have to file them down a little.
Just a quick addition of info to the thread regarding priming and painting PE. I recently started using a product from vantage modeling solutions called Metal Prep 4K, and the stuff is fantastic. You just brush it onto a clean PE part, wait about 20 minutes for it to dry, and then you can prime and paint. It has pretty much eliminated chipping and peeling issues, and if you want to clean the paint off of a small part of the PE part for gluing it to other PE parts or plastic, this stuff makes it so you have to really work at removing the paint. The bond between the paint and the PE is incredible and has all but eliminated my frustrations with painting PE.
ok, well, i kinda figured they were outta place or just wrong. But unfortunately, not until now… Ugh. Dont want to mess too much up now with shaving them off. Guess ill have to work around them - literally. Well, at least i now know the stanchions dont go on top of 'em.
Nope, Bill is right. Those are supposed to be open chocks. In some ships they would be fairleads. But not in this case. The open chock is faired on the insides so as not to chafe the mooring lines, as are Fairleads. Usually the rails pass right over them.
The rail spacing is such that the center run is omitted right over those buggers. That’s to allow the bosuns to run the line through them quickly . Just drop the line and run the eye to the Bollard before the line falls out of your hand and they gotta do it over.
Oh, in my last post I said I would try the ALEEN’S clear glue. It says “Gel” on the bottle and it works great! Smallest bottle I found was the four ounce one. $2.99 at H.L.
Hey TB - picked up some of the Aleens clear. Its very good. Sticky gooey to use a dab to hold in place and rearrange then wait to dry and use CA. Good tip. tks. It helped a lot. One of the issues i had on the ships rail was getting the bow rail bend right. Im sure i used a too big of run which made it more difficult to handle putting on. It sticks off the bow a tad. The rest was not too bad - but not too unhappy with it consdering my 1st try at it. Now i know a little more. Some of the rail i went over the “chocks” some not. Just to see the difference. Oh yeah, didnt cut them down or out either. I also practiced glueing two rails together to use just to see how it would come out! As expected, not very pretty, but now i know i can do it if i need to[:)]
