Question for the talented car modelers here.
I’m working on my first car in a long time. It’s a Revell '68 VW.
Won’t be long 'til gluing the fiddly ‘chome’ bits, lights, and windows to finished body. So for windows I’m not worried, a clear acrylic or Stauffer’s favorite UV glue.
How about the chrome stuff? If I scrape and use styrene glue (Tamiya thin or regular), I’m sure to scratch the body by mistake or end up with glue overflow. Would a clear glue be appropriate here too?
Thanks.
Hello Greg!
When I was building my Mack that was the same question I was asking myself when it came to attaching the badges. In the end I have used the good old white glue. It holds surprisingly well and I could wipe the excess away completely with damp tissue.
It turns out I have no close-up on that, but I mean the mack inscription and the superliner logo on the hood:
For the stuff that you have a hole in the body (like the door handle) I would still use a small amount of CA. Good luck with your build and have a nice day
Paweł
5 minute epoxy can work well too.
Pawel,
Thank you for your input. I’m pleased to know I’m on the right track. Your approach seems to have worked because that Mack tractor has WOW factor. [Y]
Hey, there’s a thought. And from another accomplished builder of ground vehicles yet. Thank you, mp.
I use it too. White glue in small amounts dries clear, and the small mass of PE means there is little inertial force on it, so you don’t need a strong glue.
I typically prefer clear epoxy because it holds well, but you have to be careful with it.
Don and Kensar, I truly appreciate your input.
Thank you for taking the time to share your techniques.
Sometimes if I am attaching small pe badging, etc I will use clear Testors brush lacquer.
There’s a thought for when extra thin is needed. Thanks!
There are lots more options so far than I’d considered.
I have run into this issue and for my next build, I am considering drilling little holes in the body and then attaching small mounting rods to the parts. This way, the parts will be more securely mounted and gluing will not be as touchy. The side mirrors on my Revell '68 Mustang GT 2’n1 are glued right to the body and they fall off if anything brushes against them. If I were to build this kit again, I would definitely drill some holes in the body, glue some mounting rods to the mirrors, and rest assured that they would be stable and solid. Regarding paint scraping - prior to painting, I put tiny pieces of tape on the body over the areas to be glued. This eliminates the need for paint scraping and provides a nice little gluing surface. Just be sure the tape is in the right place… Cheers!
Greg,
Crazy me bought some automobiles, and eventually, I’ll run into this problem. My plan is to use Gator Glue to attach these parts. Stronger than white glue, yet still water soluble. Hopefully, it will work. Granted it’s worked well for PE. Hope this helps.
Mounting pins are a neat idea, Mack. Thank you for joining the chat!
Bruce, I’m a big Gator’s grip fan, and after all of hte suggestions here to use white glue, am using it. Nothing has fallen off yet!
I use testors clear parts cement. Example, the mirrors on my Lotus Coventry Climax - chrome parts on clear windows - probably the worst case test!
BTW - I touched up the sprue nip on the mirror [:P]
Now we have the Molotow pens I carefully leave chrome additions to the end of the builds.
But I also have a small tin of clear gloss, Humbrol or Revell and attach small items with a small brush. Place a spot of gloss onto the paintwork and add the part, as it’s a clear gloss it doesn’t show!
Greg,
I use C/A on the small car parts , I bought a really good Tamiya curved tweezer just for this (the placing of the small parts). A pinhead of C/A will work.
Just practice dry fit first. I usually will dip any windows in Future then use C/A.
Keep in mind C/A can also craze chrome.
John and Pat, I’m so sorry I missed your posts earlier. Thank you both for your great tips!
BTW, John, that Lotus ford formula 1 is one of my all time favorites. I fell in love with that green first time I saw it as a kid, I think. I spent my life calling it “Lotus Green” until, I think it was on here somebody corrected me. British Racing Green.
Pat, CA scares me, but in this case I think it makes sense. Thanks for sharing your method with me.
Testors clear cement works well. I’ve also used Future floor wax and slightly thinned white glue.
Epoxy works well, but is FAR less forgiving if you get it where you don’t want it to be.