Hi all,
I the past, I’ve attached canopies to my model planes with regular old white glue. Does anyone else have a favorite method or material for attaching canopies?
Regards,
-Drew
Thats actually how I do it when I do it. I tend to not attach them because I want to see in the canopy. If there is any detail on most planes, it is in the cockpit. I have yet to understand why you would want to permanantly glue on the cockpit and never see what you did in terms of painting, drybrushing and so forth. Just my 2 cents worth.
I have always used white glue. I have heard if you dip the canopy and windshield in future you can use CA, but I have been to afraid to try it. I have also used a new product called Hypo-tube cement. It is made for watch crystals. It works very well and will not fog clear plastic. You can get it through Micro-Mark.
Drew:
I like the white glue method, but I use Sobo craft glue (rather than Elmer’s or some kind of “school” glue). The Sobo is tough and holds well, even when thinned. Sometimes it takes multiple applications to fill the seam. I glue the canopies on before painting (plastic to plastic), clean up the joints with a Q-tip and water, then paint. Just curious: why are you looking for a different method?
Well, I have a tube of the Sobo glue and wondered if it would work. I’ve also heard of some other glues that people use and I was trying to get a feel for what works best.
What do you thin the Sobo with?
Regards,
-Drew
I’ve had very good success “glueing” the canoppies with gloss clear paint. It may not be as strong as CA or Elmer’s, but for display purposes, it works very well. Guaranteed not to fog the canopy!
Yes, that works very well. I do it all the time. It keeps regular plastic cement from fogging the part too. (As long as you apply it sparingly).
I’ve been using testors clear parts glue it’s milkey but dries clear and you can make/fill small windows with it. How about all those window pain goo’s (micro-mark has one) do they dry clear enough or can they get milkey looking around the edges (testor’s will if you use too much). My biggest problems are canopy masking and decal visibility (yes I use micro set, sol and everything else plus gloss first but sometimes it just ain’t happenin) glueing the canopy down (open or shut) is easy enough, just don’t use much of whatever you’re using. My wife looses a lot of stick pins as glue applicators. Dipping in future is a neat trick and makes a lot of difference, good luck
Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window maker is the best product that I have used for attaching clear parts. It has almost the holding power of CA, won’t fog, dries clear and can be sanded. Allow 24 hours for the cement to set for best results. Great stuff. Rich
HEY, I read about some elmers glue that was already colored. It comes in black, blue, and a couple of other colors. The black works good for canopies.
Randy
Drew, in answer to your question, I use water (from the tap), with a few drops of dish detergent, to thin Sobo. It’s kind of an art form, to get it right–if it’s too thin it doesn’t do much filling. Then I use a small paint brush to apply it to the seam. Let it dry till it goes clear, wipe with the Qtip to remove the overage; then reapply as necessary. I also do this to fill wing roots, so’s I don’t have to fill and sand. The appearance is acceptable–at least to me.
Thanks for the tip on Sobo glue. 
Regards,
-Drew
I have used Future to attach canopies on 1/72 kits. As long as the gaps between the canopy and the fuselage are minimal it works great. Use it similar to Tenax - apply it with a small brush and let it wick in between the parts. Let it dry for a day or two if possible for best results.
Don’t expect Future to fill gaps like white glue will - it simply isn’t that thick.
I have on occasion (late at night, after all the stores in town are closed, just after I’ve discovered we’re out of Elmers) used Krystal Clear - somewhat expensive I admit, but does eliminate the frustration factor and it works.
I’ve had problems getting white glue to stick to the claer parts. It sticks just fine the the regular styrene, but not the clear canopy. Any suggestions?
I use white glue and have had no problems. I apply with a toothpick and then let it set up over night. Next day I clean it up and it’s all good.
Since I started this topic, I thought I’d follow up on it and let everyone know how it went for me.
White glue worked just fine. The canopy for my kit didn’t fit all that well, so I applied the white glue with a toothpick and wiped off the excess with a q-tip dipped in warm water. I let the first application dry, and then did another, final, application. A quick touch-up of paint, and things look great.
Regards,
-Drew
Raoul,
Glad to hear you quest ended successfully. I also use white glue to fill minor gaps. Add a little water, a drop of dish soap, and apply. Next day clean it up with warm water and a q-tip or paper towel. Once it dries the paint will seal it and it looks good.
PS: In your next life remember to fasten your seatbelt so you won’t fall out of your Neiuport. That pickett fence must have hurt! Not to mention the sudden stop…
Yup! A little paint on the seam and everything really turned out well.
I didn’t fall out, I jumped. The plane was on fire and it seemed like a good idea at the time. [;)]
Regards,
-Drew
Ah yes,
Just read the article in Aviation History Jan. issue. This guy says it now appears he was thrown and did not jump. Only Lufbery knows for sure…