I am entering a contest for the first time and need to attach my entry to my base. However, from the show rules, it appears that the judges must also be able to pick the model up off the base for close inspection.
What are the most common methods of attaching a model to a base but so that it can be removed? My subjects are a 1/35 tiger with glue together separate link tracks (somewhat fragile) and 1/35 M1A1 with a rubber band track. Thanks.
I don’t know of any way to attach it and still have it removable. I usually attach them with a drilled hole in the bottom of the hull and a wood screw going through it and into the base. Can’t really remove this though, not without the hole still being there. Also, some of those uber-picky judges will ding you for the hole in the hull as well.
Thanks for the advice HeavyArty. I was thinking of maybe drilling a couple of thin metal posts into my wood base, then bending them over so they could be turned to rest over the track (from underneath the tank). However, it will probably be a pain in the A to attach and unattach.
you sure the rules are they must be able to pick it up from the base? Or just pick it up? I haven’t seen the picking up from the base rule, just the picking up rule… however that could be something different, I just read the IPMS rules as I’m entering a show on Saturday… maybe you’re misreading it?
I’d break the fingers of any judge that picked a vehicle off my dioramas. [xx(]
Under no circumstance would I allow anyone to remove anything off my work. Any contest that would allow such vandalism isn’t worth entering. Glue the thing down with white glue and 86 the judges.
No one’s work is a toy to be played with.
I use two part epoxy to the tracks and the base, or the screw method… But none of the can allow the model to be removed…
I’m sorry but this is one of the most [censored] rules that IMPS rules there is. I attach my afv’s to a base and to loose points in a comp because a judge can’t view he underside of the vehicle is just preposterous as far as I’m concerned. Sorry all rant over.
Most of the expert AFV IPMS modelers that I know from my club always permanently attach their models to bases (mostly plain btw) and these guys win comps on a regular basis. Btw, the guys that I’m taking about here have authored several Osprey modeling titles between them
Oh good luck with your comp [tup]
Cheers
Although I never enter any model contest before, I was wondering how the judge gonna pick up the model if lets say, the diorama was a tank traveling in a ditch with 1 feet of water, which you all can immagine that half of the wheels are under water.
Ben
jlaw22;
As others have written here I have never encountered a rule where the vehicle must be removable from the base. I have tried the methods mentioned here as well and have had no problems with judges.
As Heavy Arty mentioned if you drill into the hull you could be penalized for the “alteration” of the hull in fastening.
One method I read about and now use extensively is this.
Drill into either the roadwheels or into the axle between and cement pins of brass or similar metal to make pins to cement into matching holes in your base.
A modified version of this is to take four lengths of fine wire and form a ‘U’ around two roadwheels on each side. Twist the wire tightly against the axle and secure it with superglue. Continue to twist the free ends until you are left with a pin of twisted wire on each roadwheel. Drill a matching hole through your base and secure the wire to the base. Now with this you could leave the wire unattached to the base and simply fold it over underneath the base. If the rules really do mean that the judge must be able to remove the model from the base this would allow them to do so with the least amount of alteration to the kit while still securing it for transport to and from the show.
I hope this helps. Please post some pics of your work before the show and let us know how you made out afterwards.
Cheers;
Gregory
FYI - There are no rules in IPMS/USA preventing a modeler from attaching any model - armor, aircraft, automotive, etc - to a base. If there is a rule in place at a particular contest, it is purely a local contest rule and has nothing to do with the national organization. Most local contests request that the modeler state, clearly, on their model form whether the model is attached or not. This prevents judges from lifting the base and accidentally tipping the model off.
There are many ways to attach armor to a base as stated above. My favorite (when possible) is to drill small holes up through gaps in the track into 3 or 4 roadwheels and into the base. I then use 1/2" lengths of brass rod and bind them to the base and wheels using your “glue” of choice (mine is Bindex). This works well for relatively light models. However, for heavier models, you may have to use techniques like a small bolt as outlined in Shep Paine’s book.
Good luck at the contest…
I’ve always gone with a single bolt up from the base, through the bottom of the hull, and secured with a wingnut inside the hull. Completely removable. If a hole in the bottom of the hull (and a bolt coming up from the base) turns out not to be a concern for you, then I’d say that’s the way to go.
Just to echo what others have said, I can’t imagine a judge actually handling a model…I’m not into the contest thing, but I sure wouldn’t want anyone mauling my work!
J-Hulk,
I know your last paragraph was written in jest…at least I hope so.
Judges have been handling models for as long as there have been model contests. In some cases, like some 1/72 scale aircraft and most automotive models, it’s almost mandatory due to the fact that up to 90% of the detail work is located on the bottom of the model. The thing to remember is that judges are first and foremost, modelers. They understand, far more than the general public, the work that went into a build and how fragile a model can be. Under no circumstances will judges “maul” another modeler’s entry (at least, intentionally). Sure, accidents can (and will) happen, but we’re talking about maybe 1 out of every 500 models that are handled by judges.
This is why most contests (including the IPMS Nationals) have a disclaimer stating that the contest and judges assume no liability for damage to the models. It’s one of the minor hazards associated with entering a contest. IMHO, you’re far more likely to damage your own model during transport to and from the contest than have any damage from a concerned judge’s handling.
Just my 2 cents…
I set the model on the base and mark where the middle road wheels are to be located both left and right sides. Then I measure in the width of the track and drill two small holes in the base parallel to the track on the inside of the tracks. I run a thin wire or thread from the bottom of the base through one of the holes, over the center roadwheel arm and down through the second hole. From under the base I tie it off. I do this for both the right and left side of the tank. The tank is secured with no damage to the tank. I usally carve out a small depression under the base for the knot or wire twist to lie in so the base sits flush. Greg
Unless your tank or AFV is sitting on a road or a slab of rock, it should be embedded into your groundwork, simply to imply the great weight of the vehicle you are depicting. A car or an aircraft are not usually depicted in this manner. While it is true that a great deal of a car or aircraft model’s detail will be found on the undercarriage, this is not usually the case for AFVs, as one would not expect anything other than mud to be found here. If a judge wants to inspect the underside of your AFV to see if you actually bothered to paint it, this is what the flashlight and dental mirror are for. Many armor dioramas require reworking of suspension parts to allow the vehicle to conform to the topography, couple this with the need to embed the model into the terrain and you arrive at a situation which negates your ability to have the vehicle removable from it’s base. If your AFV is not integrated into your diorama’s groundwork, you are not a very good diorama builder. Nothing will toss your diorama into the loser’s column faster than seeing daylight under your vehicle’s tracks.
Thanks for your suggestions. After careful consideration, I think I’m going to glue the F-er down. No daylight is going to screw me over.
Well, I did say that I wasn’t into the contest thing! The last contest I entered was in 1980…brought home a first place trophy for a pro-stock drag car conversion of the 1/16 MPC Dukes of Hazzard Dodge Charger. Didn’t see any judges handling anything back then…
Learning that somebody is going to handle my models has just made me even more not into the contest thing! It’s not that I don’t trust 'em…it’s just that I don’t trust 'em! Not that I’ve been considering entering any contests anytime soon, but that just seals it.
To those of you who do enjoy the contests, by all means, please enjoy! I do enjoy seeing (but not touching) all the great works at the shows.
Just my two cents, but i’ve read about Warhammer 40k modelers using large washers attached to the base and rare earth magnets being installed inside the tank hull. These magnets are strong, yet very small. with some work, you can probably stick them between the tracks and the wheels, or even somehow in the wheels. this is the link for the Games workshop page that describes how they do it. http://us.games-workshop.com/games/40k/painting/display/default.htm good luck with it, whichever method you choose!