Hi All, I am new to this formal and to modelling in general (although I made a few 20 years or so ago). Ive just completed my first 1:32 Revell Mk22 Spitfire after many years absent from the hobby and now I wish to weather the aircraft and have read many conflicting or atleast different approaches to the subject. I’ve used Revell Aqua Colour Acrylics which I’ve applied by brush and the decalling stage is now complete. The model is has not had any further treatments in terms of additional clear coats or decal fixing solutions.
Im just wondering, given the techniques and materials used thus far, my best way forward to start the weathering of this model?
I’ve read many articles around clear sealing the model, mixing up an acrylic wash (thinned with water) applied liberally, allowed to dry and then paper toweled off. I’m just concerned about using the wrong technique for the materials I’ve used thus far.
If you plan on applying a wash to bring out detail, it only works well on a gloss surface. So step one is to be sure you have a good gloss top coat. After applying the wash, you can then apply a flat or satin top coat to restore realism.
The method of applying a wash that you reference is known as a Sludge wash. I am not a fan of the technique, especially using acrylics which dry too fast. I prefer to use what is called a Pin wash where you only apply a wash to a small area at a time, using capillary action to highlite panel lines & details. It takes longer but gives better results IMHO. It’s also best to use a wash medium different than the top coat to aviod the thinner attacking the top coat. Enamel or oil wash over an acrylic base & vice versa.
I’ve just read though my post (which was done from my phone) and noticed all the auto-fixes applied by my phone to the text, sorry for that - doesn’t make a good read.
I’ve done some limited google searchings on the ‘pin wash’ method but can’t seem to find anything suitable. Do you know of any links that may be of help to me?
As for the sludge wash, and please excuse my naivety, would the gloss coat need to be enamel if I choose to apply an acrylic wash after? If so, would I be correct is assuming that the majority of sludge wash would be carefully removable to leave only wash that had traveled into the panel lines?
Thanks very much for your time in responding. Im sure you answer many nubbie questions such as these.
Nik, I am also new (after not modeling for 18 years or so) and am in a steep learning curve too. The guys on this forum are incredibly helpful and I’ve learned more about modeling in one week than I ever knew. I am also eagerly awaiting more info about the techniques of applying washes.
Thanks for the reply. Yes indeed, a very step curve. Thinking back - it was probably more like 30 years since i’ve attempted modelling. I recall in my impatient youth, applying the decals and then painting around them- you can image the results…lol
Well, my spitfire is complete and my wife kindly picked up some additional supplies (gloss coat) which I intend to apply to some over the water based acrylics ive used. I watched a good video on YouTube regarding washing by Testor scale models - he uses oils and thinning for his wash so i think I’ve give that a go once the gloss had had time to set.
What Im dreading is the wash ‘sticking’ to the main paint and ruining the model which Ive current put 30 hours into…I guess this is the best way to learn however.
Next up (which I’ve started while waiting for advise on my spitfire wash) is a ME 109F which seemed like the obvious choice after the spit.
Sound like you need a palet model. A model that is always to be used to experiment with new techniques. This will help you so much. As far as washes go, your best bet is oil based paints (Windsor & Newton) thinned about 75%. Take it easy and slowly build up your wash on the surface, do not try to do it all at once but rather build up to the look you like. After each aplication, you can use a clean brush dampened with thinner to remove the wash from unwanted areas (center of panels).