USE A COMMON PIN OR SEWING NEEDLE. and getting some practice using them.
I like to use a wooden skewer, for satays or kebabs, because its longer than a toothpick its easier to control. I usually just trim it down with my knife if it get too clogged up. Also if you shave of one side of the point (so it looks like a fountain pen nib) the glue flows better. I just place a blob of glue on a disposable tray and dip the tip of the skewer in.
I use metal “beading wire” which you can find in many craftstores, WalMart, etc. It’s dirt cheap, comes in various gauges and I let the CA glue flow down the wire into whatever area required, no matter how tight. It also makes for great landing gear brakelines, hydraulic cables, sparkplug wires for cars, whip antennae for armor, etc. etc.
Oh, and I always wear latex gloves when handling CA glue since it’s so much easier to simply pull the gloves off when the glue hits your fingers (and it inevitably will when you least expect it!).
And, just to be safe, I have a bottle of debonder within reach. I find CA glue can really surprise you with a sudden whiff of horrific fumes, especially if you use an open bottle such as the LocTite ™ brand so I make sure I have a small fan on low to propel fumes away from me.
I do believe we have a Winner!! John Howling Mouse Has Written the Smartest and Wisest Post of us all! What a Smart Idea to have the “Un-Glue your fingers” Debonder close at hand and a small fan on low to propel the fumes away from him…Latex gloves too…I also have beading wire for making plug wires, brake lines, etc, etc… but never thought about it for CA glue…
Thank you John, I will be using Your Ideas… Their much smarter than the way Ive been doing it…I have a couple box’s of latex gloves rotting in the paint booth area that I only use after washing the mold release and finger oils off the Model before painting it…I cant count how many times I’ve had to pull my fingers apart and also left finger prints molded into the plastic that I finally got thumb & forefinger unattached from!..
“RC”
Like jcfry I hate to work with super glue because I don’t like getting super glued myself; even using the debonding liquid. Here is some “stuff”. Hope it is useful.
The tool I like for normal gluing is a pin (with a slight hook from wear) inserted in a 4-6" small wooden handle. Gets a drop at a time. Also, I read where a razor blade can be inserted in seams allowing glue to run where it should.
Again, I use Weldbond (www.dickblick.com) for Photo etch parts. As an afterthought on the Abrams Tank I am modeling, I used this glue to attach two medium size photo etch plates to the front turret (vertical work); used my tool to roll (another application technique for it) the thicker glue on both the plate pieces and the turret surface (had to scrape point off turret points). Very pleased with the results—it is there to stay.
I have used this tool for many years. It originally came from a biology kit in high school; but a long (sewing) needle, a piece of the right length wooden dowel stock, a drill and some Weldbond could produce one in the workshop.
Seems as good a spot to task this as any.
I have a problem with the vapors from super glue leaving a white “film” around the glued area, and there seems to be no ryme or reason to this. Anyone know why this happens or how to prevent it??
Dip your Canopy in Future floor polish first, then let it dry over night, the fumes can’t affect the canopy then…Or use white glue to glue the canopy…
“RC”
thanks for that tip.
But it’s not just on clear plastic, i have had dark green turn white after applying some super glue… (doesn’t happen that often but often enough)
Ive never had that happen, But don’t you paint the Model after its glued together?.. Whos to see it then?..
“RC”
Maby with air brushing, but when hand painting it’s a very big pain to paint over time parts, a much better job is done when it’s painted by itself, then attached and any touchups done afterward.
I’m surprised I have not seen this method mentioned -
Scott, try this, from the bottle, put a small or not so small drop on an old #11 xacto blade (down towards the point). Then ease the flat part of the point/blade into the gap or area you want to glue. The capilary action will pull the glue into the area. Apply more as/if needed. The blade can be used over and over, simply scrape off dried glue and you have a “new” blade applicator.
Simple-Effective-Reusable
Best of luck
ZzZGuy, are you using accelerator with the CA? I have the same whitening effect when I use ZipKicker or whatever it’s called. If I apply plain CA and wait for it to cure naturally, it dries clear.
Safety glasses, my man, safety glasses. Drop $10. and use something that you should use when doing this hobby, no matter what techniques you’re employing…
One method I find useful for models of all sizes from 1/72 scale to R/C size involves an “ancient” tool known as an inking pen. Draftsmen used to hand letter drawings with these by dipping them in ink. These tools have 2 metal blades that are sprung and the distance between them is set by a screw assembly in the side. If you need a lot of glue, set the blades apart…for a little set them close together. Capillary action holds the glue and feeds the glue to your choice, a tap feeds a little, hold it there and unload the whole amount. If really small amounts are your thing. you can sharpen the tips to a sharp point and adjust the blades really close to get very small quantities.
Another good tool for small amounts is a calligraphy pen. All sorts of tip sizes are avaliable.
You can use both for dispensing accelerant too, but I recommend two different pens, for obvious reasons.
I use a sharpened inking pen for superglue and a large and a small calligraphy pen for accelerant.
After a few uses, you may have to soak the tips in super glue debonder to clean them up, but this little maintenance is well worth the wide range of application uses.
On the subject of superglue clouding clear plastic, like canopies…
Find some superglue that is formulated to be “foam compatible”. That type is much less agressive and almost as fast, within seconds. So far I have never had a problem with it clouding the clear plastic, even with accelerant. Best to try both on some scrap first, Too bad the faom compatible type costs about 3x as much.
Thanks for that tid bit explorerjake
You can also use Elmers White glue It won’t hurt windows and dries clear![8D]
“RC”